My First (Full) Spline Lube

[technostructural]

Here you go:

http://www.marcorubber.com/materialguide.htm

Seems like Viton is better in basically every respect. I'll call a local machine shop this afternoon and see what the options are. Even if I'm still paying $20, I'd rather get a bag of 10. Not that I expect to do 10 more spline lubes  :hehehe

[jaxon]

As is the custom of our tribe, you are now a man.  :yes

[technostructural]

As is the custom of our tribe, you are now a man.  :yes

Being only 30, I've had insecurities about this. I never knew that this was all that I had to do to join the club.


Re: O-ring. I called a local machine shop, and they're ordering a few in for me at $2.63 each. They're Viton 19 x 4 o-rings. Sure as hell beats paying $24.00 for one.

[Laitch]

I never knew that this was all that I had to do to join the club.

DNA profiling and flashing were voted down by the committee.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Re: O-ring. I called a local machine shop, and they're ordering a few in for me at $2.63 each. They're Viton 19 x 4 o-rings. Sure as hell beats paying $24.00 for one.

If you ride these things long enough you'll find lots of ways to avoid being futt bucked by BMW for the stuff to keep it running.

[alexis291]

For those that don't know, it's always worth going to a general supplier of bearings and seals for these items rather than to a BMW dealer. If you can read the numbers etched or moulded on your bearing or seal, or can measure your o-ring, you will pay a fraction of the price. For example, I bought a Chinese pattern seal for my rear hub recently at 20% of what a BMW parts specialist were charging. And it's fine. Just check that your pattern part is exactly the same specification as the one you need.


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[alexis291]

Sorry if that last post sounded a bit patronising, folks! Just making the point that it may not occur to everyone to shop around for bearings etc. The main dealers and specialist parts suppliers aren't the only sources.


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[F14CRAZY]

Careful with that clutch housing O ring. I tried using one from an auto parts store (the big box with the dividers) and it leaked. I had to order one from the dealer and redo it though I think they had that one in stock

[technostructural]

Careful with that clutch housing O ring. I tried using one from an auto parts store (the big box with the dividers) and it leaked. I had to order one from the dealer and redo it though I think they had that one in stock

I hear you. It was definitely a concern of mine. I'm pretty sure these should be spot on though. Viton and in the same dimensions. I will of course double check with my callipers before installing. Likely the retail ones at cheapo hardware stores use crap rubber that isn't rated for the proper heat or pressure.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Careful with that clutch housing O ring. I tried using one from an auto parts store (the big box with the dividers) and it leaked. I had to order one from the dealer and redo it though I think they had that one in stock

If you went into the hardware or auto parts store for a generic o-ring I will guarantee that you did not get a metric o-ring.  There are at least a couple hundred o-ring sizes, and those divider boxes only have room for a couple dozen at best.  They force you to get something that's "close" but doesn't come with the banana.  Your odds of getting the right part are about one in 30 on a good day.  That's why your o-ring didn't work.

When you go to a bearing or machine shop, and order the correct dimensions or number you will get the exact replacement part.

[technostructural]

If you went into the hardware or auto parts store for a generic o-ring I will guarantee that you did not get a metric o-ring.  There are at least a couple hundred o-ring sizes, and those divider boxes only have room for a couple dozen at best.  They force you to get something that's "close" but doesn't come with the banana.  Your odds of getting the right part are about one in 30 on a good day.  That's why your o-ring didn't work.

When you go to a bearing or machine shop, and order the correct dimensions or number you will get the exact replacement part.

Because now I'm starting to worry about this, what I did order was:

MORV-19 x 4  metric viton o-ring (x 4).

That sounds right, eh Gryphon?

I also requested these attributes:
75A Durometer, Round, Black, Viton, 19 mm ID, 27 mm OD, 4 mm Width

[alexis291]

19 x 4 is certainly the size shown on the parts list

http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51713&rnd=07012015

Viton seals work over a higher temperature range than nitrile so should be a better choice.


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[The Mighty Gryphon]

That's the size(19x4).  Viton is a bit better than Buna N because it deforms permanently less under pressure and doesn't harden as fast.

[technostructural]

Hello everybody.

It's been a few weeks off, but I'm back it this now. I'd like to have everything back together over the next week or two.


After looking through the bundle of parts that I've got from BMW Toronto, I noticed that one of the parts looks to be wrong. What should have been the "Compression Ring" (11 21 1 460 696) turned out to be this "covering plate":












I am not sure what exactly this part is, but I am pretty damn sure it is not the "compression ring". Any thoughts on the reuse of the compression ring? It's a bit of pain to order another one, because it looks like it would be at least 2 more weeks, and an additional $25 for shipping =(

I was hoping to put this back together sooner than that. Thoughts?


Goods news is that I managed to score a good deal on viton 19 x 4 o-rings. I got a pack of 5 for $8.

[Inge K.]

I am not sure what exactly this part is, but I am pretty damn sure it is not the "compression ring". Any thoughts on the reuse of the compression ring?

The part is used on the starter sprag clutch.
Shouldn't be any problem to reuse the compression ring.

[bocutter Ed]

What should have been the "Compression Ring" (11 21 1 460 696) turned out to be this "covering plate":

It looks like they picked the wrong part: 11 26 1 460 696 vs 11 21 1 460 696

[Laitch]

Any thoughts on the reuse of the compression ring?
I was hoping to put this back together sooner than that. Thoughts?

bocutter Ed is correct, of course.

Drag the attached photo onto your desktop then attach it to an email to the supplier that explains they sent you the wrong part and you want them to overnight you—or whatever Canadians do, which might be apologize then move on to some other less controversial subject—the correct part at no charge. Assure them that you will return their error by mail and you will praise them on the Motobrick forums when they fulfill their obligation to you in a timely manner.

K75 Compression ring from MAX BMW fiche.png (35.46 kB . 514x293 - viewed 507 times)

If the o-ring was leaking, you need to replace them both, except if Inge K. says otherwise. :giggles

[technostructural]

bocutter Ed is correct, of course.

Drag the attached photo onto your desktop then attach it to an email to the supplier that explains they sent you the wrong part and you want them to overnight you—or whatever Canadians do, which might be apologize then move on to some other less controversial subject—the correct part at no charge. Assure them that you will return their error by mail and you will praise them on the Motobrick forums when they fulfill their obligation to you in a timely manner.

If the compression ring or o-ring was leaking, you need to replace them both, except if Inge K. says otherwise. :giggles

Heh. Thanks Laitch. I do apologise for this entire enquiry.


Neither the o-ring nor the compression ring are leaking. I am just replacing them for good measure as it has all come apart. I suppose I can inspect the condition of the compression ring when I pull it out. It is rubber, correct? It does not actually "crush", or render itself single use?

[Laitch]

.
I am just replacing them for good measure as it has all come apart.

I'm not generally in the replace-for-good-measure side of wrenching so I'll back out of this, go throw my Green Up Day trash bags in the truck along with the roadside debris that's collected by others, and search for a coconut donut.

[bocutter Ed]

... attach it to an email to the supplier that explains they sent you the wrong part and you want them to overnight you ...

... seems to remember he was going to pick the parts up in Toronto his-self, being as he was visitin' anyway.

I'm about 5 miles north of the 11 Sunlight Motorrad location if I can help ...

[technostructural]

... seems to remember he was going to pick the parts up in Toronto his-self, being as he was visitin' anyway.

I'm about 5 miles north of the 11 Sunlight Motorrad location if I can help ...

Thanks Bocutter Ed. I just may take you up on that offer. I've called them and apparently they are ordering one in for me that will be there for pickup on Monday or Tuesday. I have a buddy in Toronto who has opted to do it, but he lives pretty far away from there.

Having said all of that, I took the clutch nut and compression ring out today and removed the old o-ring. Taking a look at the compression ring, I can't see why someone couldn't reuse it. It is made of steel (or some metal), and seems to be very rigid. I do not think that it is meant to bend or change in shape when under torque. It is basically just a very strong washer that pushes the o-ring in firmly.


Given that I have a trip planned in June, and I'd like to get on the road. I think I will just reuse the compression ring.


Here are some photos of my discoveries today:


(1) old o-ring. It was very brittle and cracking. I am very glad that I changed it.










The new viton o-ring is actually brown. Good thing that doesn't matter at all.





Oh, and here is a look at the main seal. It was not leaking and looked and felt quite good:





I also cleaned up the clutch pack and prepared it for reassembly. The only thing I have to do before putting everything back together is clean the transmission. It is filthy!


Any tips for getting grime off?

[technostructural]

You don't have to haul cement to get splines that look like that in under 10kmiles -- all you have to do is center the clutch improperly on install. I know -- I fried a clutch disk that way and now have a useless transmission box with splines that look exactly like that. So -- center the clutch properly and if it vibrates more after the job than before, do it again till you get it right.

I am about to centre my clutch for the purposes of putting the transmission back together,and I must say that this has me worried. I've got a 6mm philips screwdriver with a taped section on it that matches the clutch splines perfectly. The screwdriver is long enough to go through the spring plate and into the clutch nut/crankshaft. That should centre everything properly, right?

I would buy the tool, but with shipping and exchange rates, it would be basically $45 for me. It seems like many Motobrickers here have used home made tools for this. Any comments on how precise we have to be when lining this up?

[Laitch]

Any comments on how precise we have to be when lining this up?

I know one person who doesn't think a tool is necessary and he's only ruined his transmission once. Go for it!

[technostructural]

Just bit the bullet and ordered the tool. Peace of mind requires it now.


Sorry for hijacking that other thread. I figured it was in line with the topic, but I will keep to my own lubin'.

[Martin]

To make your life a bit easier use two long bolts with the heads cut off as a replacement for your gearbox mounting bolts. Slide the gearbox onto the bolts and it should slide right on if you have the clutch aligned, sometimes you might have to rotate the gearbox shaft to align the splines.
Regards Martin.