Saved a brick today!

[K_grendell]

Hey guys, long time rider of many brands but never a bmw. I've always want a "brick" the right one finally fell into my lap today!


It's a 1987 k75s. I picked it up from the original owner. It has a tick over 20 thousand miles and has been sitting in the back of his garage for the last 20 years. It looked terrible and the clutch was locked up. After some rocking around and some proper cleaning it's starting to shape up quite well and I'm happy she's on the mend.


 Hopefully I'll have time on Sunday to finish cleaning and get it running. I plan to have the injectors cleaned, complete fluid flush, lube the drive splines, and give the electrics a solid once over. Any other suggestions on things to look at for on a barn find?


Here's a few pics of the retrieval and revival!

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Welcome!  Your "new" brick certainly photographs well. 

I would keep a close eye on the rear brake master cylinder.  You could have a lot of crystallized brake fluid in there that will tear up the seals and make it leak and not build good brake pressure.  With 20 year old brake fluid, I also wouldn't be surprised it the cylinder bore is corroded as well.  Watch closely for brake fluid leaks.

[Martin]

Welcome to the asylum from the land of OZ. looks like a good restorer. Change all the fluids and check and clean the inside of the tank replace the fuel lines check the pump damper. Check and replace any suspect rubber bits breather hose vacuum caps etc. Clean electrical connectors with Deoxit and apply dielectric grease optional.
Regards Martin.

[Chaos]

wow, awesome find!  what is the last 4 digits of the VIN?  I think the 1st 300 USA spec were manufactured (0001-0300) in May '86 and sold here that fall.  Curious about the black, there were metallic red and some silver ones, maybe some black but they were rare, like 50 or so.   And what the heck is that on the right side of one of the photos?

[K_grendell]

Thank you. I am not sure what the Vin number is , I will get it when I go back up to the shop on Sunday. I didn't know earlier black bikes were rare. This one is definitely a time capsule that still has all the original tools,manuals, cases, and parts.


That car you see is an old Fiat 500 that was in a car fire. We are restoring it now and it's nicknamed the toasted marshmallow

[Chaos]

Ahh, that fits.  I was thinking more exotic, Lancia or something.  There was just another post here by a fellow putting a K75 engine in a '65 Fiat 500.  Small world. http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9245.msg73937.html#msg73937

[Filmcamera]

I used to have a Mercedes very similar to that.  First I had a '62 220 SE full length two door convertible but at the tender age of 19 I couldn't afford to fix it up so I swapped it for a '64 220 S which looked very like the one you have behind the bike there.


Great car - tank really, it brought back lots of memories to see one, thanks!


Bike looks nice btw!

[The Dude]

Awesome bike.Look after it!

[K_grendell]

Ok, so I got some good time in on the bike today. I cleaned the mouse house from the air box, put new fuel lines on, fresh gas, cleaned the plugs and checked over all the fluids. I primed the oil and then tried to start. It's a no go. She will fire on starting fluid and run briefly but it's not pumping fuel.


The fuel pump doesn't click on and cycle when the ignition is turned on, and I have 12v+ going to the pump at the pump harness. So I'm going to order up a new pump..


Since this is my first k-bike can someone recommend a good place to order from and which parts need to get replaced besides the pump? I know there are some newer replacement components that ethanol won't eat.  Internal lines etc... any help would be greatly appreciated.

I am going to search but found a few other things I need. Rear master reservoir needs to be replaced, and the right side tragkorb latch is long gone. Is there a retrofit or mod? They seem cheap and doesn't hold well to the bike on the left side.

I also got the vin too: wb1057208H0150695
I

[jakgieger]

Welcome.  That is a very nice find.  Sounds like a fuel problem.  My bike had same background history.  I replaced pump, filter, lines, and bought reconditioned 4 hole injectors, as well as reconditioning the rail.  The pump only runs when the starter is cranking!    Open fuel lid (remove screws) completely and see what treasure awaits you.  Then you will also be able to hear if the pump is running when you crank.   I think the guys here go to Motobins?

[K_grendell]

Thanks! I couldn't here it kicking on when I cranked it, and it didn't pressurize the lines either, not so much as a single drop. I plan to recondition or replace the injectors, I want to get new o-rings in there and it seems silly not to do it right all at once.

[Martin]

Moto Bins or Motorworks both good.
Regards Martin.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Check the tank connector.  I had problems  with it on my bike.  They get loose and corroded terminals.

[K_grendell]

Thanks gryphon. I just ordered a complete kit from euro moto electrics, once I get it out if it's still salvageable I'll keep it on the shelf. My plan is to sell my newer multistrada and replace it with the k75, so I want to make sure this one is ready for touring.


 I also found that max bmw sells the tragkorb mount clips I need with locks for short change.  I'm always amazed at the amount of bmw stuff they can get.

[Vespa no more]

Fuel pump might be shot, but at least take it out and play with it. There are a few success stories out there. White vinegar (soak ... up to 1 week) has been know to work. It is essentially just a pump in an aluminum body and might jar free with applications of 12V (stating the obvious I know... but it is merely a variation on an electric motor.


Injectors are easy to clean. Look in youtube. I found the tire valve approach worked very easily. My only concern is that the filter is in the top. If crud (filth) has come from the tank and into the injector from above, spraying carb cleaner doesn't clean the small mesh at the top. Perhaps reverse spray from the bottom through an open injector might clean the mesh out.


Fuel injector service kits are cheap to buy and include the 2 O-rings, the filter and the pintle cap on the bottom. The filter in the top is removed by turning a screw into it (enough to grip the filter) and pulling out. Don't apply 12V for extended periods. A shop service will include flow rates (before and after... how much injector cleaner in (I think 1 min... don't quote me). Cost me $120 for service and 30 mins in the garage for the second bike.


Your call. If cost is not a problem (ref: new fuel filter) go the service. But I could help feeling cheated once I tried it myself.


Congrats on the bike. Buffed up quite nicely. Should run well once sorted.


Regards


Guy

[Martin]

You can use one of those small rectangular 9 V batteries to cycle the injectors.
Regards Martin.

[kris]

The world will sleep a little better knowing that another Brick has been saved! Well done. Looks like you enjoy your toys!


Sounds like you already ordered fuel pump, etc.. You can pick yourself up a spare pump for $15 - $20. That's what I'm running in mine, no problems. There is information on hand as to what you can substitute in.  Ford Escort pumps come to mind.


She'll get better and smoother the more you run her. Imagine how you'd feel after a 20 year snooze!!


Best of luck

[kris]

Couple of more things....new tires, for sure. I run Shinkos and they're great. You'd be well advised to lubricate your drive line...splines, specifically. If you are mechanically inclined at all it's not a problem. It takes time and it's important that you establish a baseline for this maintenance. Your splines will be fine with only 20K on the clock but your grease will likely be shit. Honda Moly, Staburags grease, Guard Dog Moly (apparently you can get that still, somewhere online) are among the lubes of choice. You can do a little research and come to your own conclusions on this. Chris Harris (youtube) has a great video on this and many other things of a Brick nature. Steering head bearings and your throttle twist gear (at the grip) would also be worth looking at for proper lube. Throttle and clutch cables are Teflon coated, therefore require no maintenance...those clever Germans.

[Chaos]

Throttle and clutch cables are Teflon coated, therefore require no maintenance...those clever Germans.

Almost maintenance free.  The little barrel on the clutch cable the fits into the hand lever needs be lubed occasionally or it will not rotate and the cable will break there. 

[Laitch]

Check the tank connector.  I had problems  with it on my bike.  They get loose and corroded terminals.

Thanks gryphon. I just ordered a complete kit from euro moto electrics, once I get it out if it's still salvageable I'll keep it on the shelf.

Gryph is pointing out that there is a connector beneath—not within—the tank that supplies power to the fuel pump. You should inspect it, clean it with an electronics cleaner and be certain that its connection is tight. You can purchase and install fuel pumps 'til the cows come home but none of them will work until that connector functions properly. In other words, the problem might not be with the pump's condition but rather with its electrical supply.

Maybe you understood him, but your response doesn't indicate that to me.

[K_grendell]

It's alive! I am glad i ordered an entire pump kit. The dampner, lock ring, and all the rubber internal lines turned to a gooey mush. I'm also thankful that bmw uses aluminum for these tanks. Every component that wasn't stainless was a total loss including the fuel level sender. I cleaned all the connections and tester to be sure. After some cranking it fired and ran rough but smoothed out after warming up.


Now that I know it's a good runner I'll start to really dig into cleaning and sorting it. I'll give it a proper coolant/oil flush this weekend, get to cleaning, finish up the fuel system with fresh injectors, brake rebuild, and a spline lube.

[The Dude]

Must be satisfying getting it to fire up.Worth regreasing the stearing head and swing arm bearings,after all this time,a bit of a chore but...part of zeroing the maintenance.At 20,000 miles she will be almost run in!

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Great to hear that you have it running.  Put a half bottle of Techron(it's pretty cheap right now with several auto stores having it on sale for like $5) in a tank of no corn gas and run that through before you drop any cash on new injectors.  I would guess that with the miles on her and the length of time it sat idle there is a fair amount of varnish gumming up the works.  The Techron will take care of that over the course of a couple tanks of gas. 

Winter is the ideal time to clean the crap out.  With a tank of good gas mixed with Techron in the bike over the winter you start it up, let it get to operating temperature and shut it down.  Do this once a week or so and you will have spent about 4 months with cleaner soaking in the injectors dissolving the varnish.  Each time you start and run you'll be flushing them.  By spring they will be ready to go.

For now the most I would do is change the injector screens and o-rings, a job that shouldn't cost more than $20.  A new NAPA gold 3032 filter in the tank is something else you want to do.  Along with your new pump and damper that should have your fuel system working pretty well and let you work on the rest of the fluids and the splines.

[Elipten]

I hope the hoses in the tank were replaced with submersible fuel hose and not not always fuel hose?


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[Martin]

Use 5/16 SAE 30 R10 rated submersible fuel hose in the tank.
Regards Martin.