Author Topic: K100RS parked for four months outside in all weathers (Read 314460 times)

Laitch · « **Reply #275 on:** February 19, 2017, 06:53:23 PM »

Quote from: Filmcamera on February 19, 2017, 05:03:33 PM

I am going to try and rescue and reuse it but how vital is it?

All boots should be in good condition to repel infiltration of moisture and grit.

Filmcamera · « **Reply #276 on:** February 19, 2017, 06:59:03 PM »

figured - ok so I am going to see what I can to do rehabilitate the old one, it looks like it wasn't attached but was being squashed by the swing arm so it is out of shape, not torn though luckily.

Martin · « **Reply #277 on:** February 19, 2017, 07:46:57 PM »

While your at it fit a grease nipple to the clutch arm and waterproof the gear position switch with something like Plasti Dip.
Regards Martin.

Filmcamera · « **Reply #278 on:** February 19, 2017, 07:59:59 PM »

Good idea, the GPI works but the back cover is missing so all the wires are exposed which has to mean it will fail sooner rather than later. I have seen the grease nipple thing done, not really sure why it is done but what the heck in for a penny in for a pound so I will see if I can do that as well. Apart from anything trying to work out the spanish for grease nipple will be a fun challenge!

Quick question, if I cover the opening in the tranny where the swing arm attaches with a plastic bag is it safe to go at the rest with a high pressure spray gun or is that asking for trouble - there is SO much gunk in there I am having a tough time cleaning it out

Laitch · « **Reply #279 on:** February 19, 2017, 09:14:36 PM »

Quote from: Filmcamera on February 19, 2017, 07:59:59 PM

Apart from anything trying to work out the spanish for grease nipple will be a fun challenge!

Grasera would work in Miami.

Laitch · « **Reply #280 on:** February 19, 2017, 09:24:58 PM »

Quote from: Filmcamera on February 19, 2017, 07:59:59 PM

. . there is SO much gunk in there I am having a tough time cleaning it out

What are you using for crud removal? Surely somebody here has a favorite concoction to recommend.

Filmcamera · « **Reply #281 on:** February 19, 2017, 09:45:31 PM »

Right now just a degreaser - the crud is basically oil mixed with road dirt. That has gotten rid of 85% of it but to try and get it actually clean I need to get the last 15% off as well. Water seems obvious but I don't want to screw anything up any more than it is already

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #282 on:** February 19, 2017, 09:46:28 PM »

Some quality time with a table knife, thin pieces of wood, scrapers and paper towels to remove as many of the chunks as possible.

Follow with an old hair dryer to soften what is left so it can be wiped up with more paper towels.

Follow that with mineral spirits brushed on with a cheap paint brush. Let it soak for a few minutes, keeping the surface wet, then wipe with even more paper towels. If you cut the paint brush bristles to about half their length will make them a little stiffer and better for working the spirits into the goo.

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #283 on:** February 19, 2017, 09:52:19 PM »

Concentrate on getting the moving parts, the GPI switch, and surfaces where the boots are attached really clean. Anything else is going to be wasted effort since it will be dirty the first couple times you take the bike out, and nobody is going to see it anyway.

Martin · « **Reply #284 on:** February 19, 2017, 10:35:26 PM »

Both the GPI and the clutch arm are subject to water and road crud. The GPI's were never waterproof and benefit from a clean and waterproofing it will extend it's life expectancy. The grease nipple on the clutch arm allows for lubrication, and allows for the crud and water to be kept out. Any crud that does get in will be pushed out when you grease it. There is a post on fitting the nipple.
Regards Martin.

Filmcamera · « **Reply #285 on:** February 21, 2017, 01:27:41 PM »

Ok I think I have finally hit an 'oh sh*t' moment.

As stated before in this thread I was leaking some transmsission oil out othe the bottom of the tranny. Research suggested that it was either Input Shaft Seal or the Clutch Pushrod seal. Since I have the tranny out I decided to go ahead and replace them both.

The input shaft seal was pretty easy and is installed no problem.

The Clutch pushrod seal however is another story...

In the thread about it Frankenduck says "This seal has a metal collar with a very tight tolerance and it takes some work with small tools to pick the old one out"

I have been been working at it for 45 minutes and have totally destroyed the old one but cannot get it out.

Any suggestions would be very gratefully received - at the moment my only thought it to take the tranny to a BMW mechanic and say "I screwed up"

Filmcamera · « **Reply #286 on:** February 21, 2017, 06:54:06 PM »

It is hard to take a good pic but this is what I mean - it is the part ending 1159 in the fiche

Laitch · « **Reply #287 on:** February 21, 2017, 07:31:07 PM »

Quote from: Filmcamera on February 21, 2017, 06:54:06 PM

It is hard to take a good pic but this is what I mean - it is the part ending 1159 in the fiche

It can be an ordeal working around a seal and moving it slowly out of its seat. Are you using tools like these or something else?

Filmcamera · « **Reply #288 on:** February 21, 2017, 08:05:28 PM »

Yes, I am using a couple of picks, one with a 90 degree turn and the other with 45. I guess I will just keep at it tomorrow - on the good side I did install my new LED driving/fog lights today. I also received the clutch o-ring, nut and thrust washer. After a hell of a battler I managed to undo the old nut so progress there.

I also repainted the swing arm and paralever but am not happy with the results. I used a matt black and it is too matt, doesn't really match the OEM so I am going to keep hunting for a semi matt or something. I remember someone mention a rustoleum product that was a goo d match?? Can't buy it here but maybe I can have someone bring some down for me.

Lastly I tried to install my new clutch cable only yo discover the cable adjuster on the bike isn't original so I cannot fit the cable. A quick $7 order on MaxBMW fixed that but now it is another week to get it. Sigh - I do envy you guys who can jump on the bike and ride round to your nearest dealer.

mystic red · « **Reply #289 on:** February 21, 2017, 08:23:52 PM »

Quote

Lastly I tried to install my new clutch cable only yo discover the cable adjuster on the bike isn't original so I cannot fit the cable. A quick $7 order on MaxBMW fixed that but now it is another week to get it. Sigh - I do envy you guys who can jump on the bike and ride round to your nearest dealer

Our local dealer, before he went out of business, didn't have K bike parts ten years ago. Had to order them and then I got to drive back in to pick them up. Think I did that twice.

Elipten · « **Reply #290 on:** February 21, 2017, 08:27:03 PM »

Agree, local dealer has no K bike parts in stock

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Filmcamera · « **Reply #291 on:** February 21, 2017, 08:28:34 PM »

Yeah I know it isn't quite as easy as I make it sound but a minimum of ten days gets depressing... as does close to doubling the cost when tax and shipping are added.

Still at least it IS possible to get parts still - long may that last. Also - joy of joys - I came across another K bike owner here in CR- he has a K1100 LT he is looking to turn into a cafe racer. I have the chance to score his old 35l top box to add to my iconic 22 l but I am in two minds about it.

My two picks are cheap CR ones, I have basically blunted the tips already so I may have to go to a better tool shop and get some decent ones

Filmcamera · « **Reply #292 on:** February 22, 2017, 10:54:49 AM »

And it's OUT!

OMG if that seal ever needs replacing again I swear I will buy a whole new tranny rather than go through that 2 hours of misery again!

It seems the new seal is an upgrade on the old one so the design is slightly different. Before I try and install it can I confirm which way up it goes?

I am pretty sure the side with the internal circular spring faces out towards the rear of the bike and the side with the flat portion face intowards the transmission.

Can anyone confirm this?

Thanks a very relieved noob mechanic...

The Dude · « **Reply #293 on:** February 22, 2017, 01:41:29 PM »

The spring is usually bathed in the oil it is sealing.

Filmcamera · « **Reply #294 on:** February 22, 2017, 02:01:59 PM »

OK so not what I thought, the opposite - the spring facing into the transmissions and the other side facing out? I have taken a photo with the seal just gently placed where it goes without being pressed in so you can see what I mean.

The Dude · « **Reply #295 on:** February 22, 2017, 07:06:08 PM »

That looks ok to me.Imagine the oil within pressurizing to get out.The mechanics of the seal will tighten on the sealing surface.
The other way round and you'd get the opposite.
I've never had to deal with my pushrod seal so .....

Filmcamera · « **Reply #296 on:** February 22, 2017, 07:12:33 PM »

OK thanks, unless I hear otherwise I will proceed with installing it like that tomorrow.

Meanwhile today I installed the new clutch (uggh it is a struggle without a clutch centering tool but I got there eventually).

I also joined the cool kids club and added a grease nipple to my clutch arm!

Lastly I got everything cleaned up and ready so tomorrow will be lube the splines and then reinstall everything.

jimboknowsit · « **Reply #297 on:** February 23, 2017, 10:07:41 AM »

Hopefully nothing was stolen off of it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Filmcamera · « **Reply #298 on:** February 25, 2017, 04:16:48 PM »

Ok first I have something to admit.

I am a total blithering idiot and deserve whatever issues I have brought upon myself.

Now - what did I do?

I rebuilt everything, put the tank back on and tried to fire her up. Nothing. I tried again a few times and nothing. So I started trouble shooting and eventually figured out that - idiot that I am - in my rush I had connected the fuel lines the wrong way round. Phew I thought an easy enough fix - which I did - problem is she still won't start.

Could I have ruined the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator? Messed up the injectors? Worse?

Is there anything else that could be causing it?

The GPI works - the neutral light comes on and if I put it in gear the LCD on the instrument cluster goes to 1.

I though it might be the sidestand switch - on my bike it is a little electrical switch which is open when the side stand is down and closed when it is up.

I can't think of what else could cause a no start from a clutch change. (Yes I did reconnect the motronic)

The bike cranks great but zero sign of life

Other than those two things I am stumped, and fearful I have messed something up...

Martin · « **Reply #299 on:** February 25, 2017, 04:21:55 PM »

Can you hear the pump, the four pin connector under the tank is a known source of problems. Try cleaning an reconnecting. Check fuse # 6 which supplies power to the pump.
Good luck regards Martin.

News:

Author Topic: K100RS parked for four months outside in all weathers (Read 314460 times)