Need help mating Ducati switchgear to the K100 Harness

[Mike Flores]

Hi Everyone,

I’m pretty far along with my project already, and am approaching the final stages of the build. I’d like to give a huge shoutout to RBM for his help and guidance. I’m using one of his latest TGPI boards and have used his blog as a guide for installing the motogadget chronoclassic on my K100.

I have a 1987 K100 RS.

I’m looking to replace the stock K100 handlebar controls and switchgear with Ducati switchgear. I’ve found the stock BMW controls to be bulky for my taste, nor did I like the turn signals separated on each side of the bars. Also, I was concerned the stock master cylinder wouldn’t be powerful enough for the calipers I’m using now after my front end conversion.

With that being said, can the K100 electrical system gurus on here help me figure out the best way to mate the new switchgear with the K100 wiring harness?

My right side Start/Kill switch is from an ’04 999, and the wiring diagram for that is attached.

The left side Turns / Horn / Headlight / Mode switch is from an ’08 Hypermotard, and that diagram is also attached.

I'm including the wiring diagram for the K100 that I believe RBM created just so all three are in one place.

Many thanks in advance for anyone willing to help me out with this undertaking!

[Mike Flores]

Had issues with the other two attachments, attaching the Hypermotard wiring diagram to this post

[rbm]

Documented pin usage on the Left Hand switch cluster connector
pin 1 (White) High Beam
pin 3 (Blue/Red) LH turn
pin 4 (Yellow) Low Beam
pin 6 (Brown) Ground
pin 7 (White/Yellow) headlight pwr from RH controls
pin 8 (Green/Blue) High Beam Flash pwr
pin 9 (Brown/Yellow) Horn - active low

Documented pin usage on the Right Hand switch cluster connector
pin 1 (Black/Yellow) Start Sw.
pin 2 (Green/Yellow) Kill Sw.
pin 3 (Green/Blue) Light pwr.
pin 4 (White/Yellow) headlight pwr to LH controls
pin 5 (Blue/Yellow) RH Turn
pin 6 (Black/Green) Start Enable
pin 7 (Grey/Blue) Parking lights
pin 8 (Brown) Ground
pin 9 (Green) Kill Sw.


Ducati 999 RH Controls pin mapping
Duc      BMW
pin 1 -> RH pin 1
pin 2 -> RH pin 6
pin 3 -> RH pin 2
pin 4 -> RH pin 6
pins 5 through 8 are not connected



Ducati Motard LH controls pin mapping (pins are numbered 1 through 10 left to right).
Duc      BMW
pin 1 -> see Circuit
pin 2 -> see Horn mods
pin 3 -> see Circuit
pin 4 -> RH pin 3
pin 5 -> LH pin 4
pin 6 -> LH pin 1
pin 7 -> +12V switched power
pin 8 -> Ground
pin 9 -> not connected
pin 10 -> not connected



Horn Mods. Normally the BMW horn switch connects to Ground, which completes the circuit on the horn relay and the horn blows.  you'll have to rewire the horn relay to ground Pin 85 on the relay (Brown/Yellow) and connect Pin 2 of the Motard switch to Pin 86 of the relay.  Make sure to remove the Green/Red wire from Pin 86 on the relay first.

Circuit:  To make the turn signals work, you'll have to completely replace the BMW flasher with an aftermarket 3-pin flasher which probably should be LED-compatible for maximum flexibility.  One pin of the flasher goes to +12V, the second goes to ground and the third output goes to this circuit.  Then you'll have to build the following circuit to make the turn signal switches work properly.  Switch S1 is the Motard turn signal switch.  LMPs are the existing turn indicator lamps on the bike.



I haven't tested this circuit so I suggest you prototype it first before committing to a production unit. that gets installed into the bike.

How the circuit works:  The Motard switches output +12V constantly when signalling either left or right.  When the turn signal is signalled left, power is applied to Q1 which pulls the base of Q3 to ground.  this turns Q3 on and the flasher output is directed through to the indicator lamps.  When the turn signal switch is signalled right, power is applied to Q2 instead, which turns on Q4 and causes the flasher output to be redirected to the other indicator lamps.  When the turn signal switch is in the center position, neither circuit is active and the flasher output is cutoff.

[Mike Flores]

rbm, This is incredibly helpful. I'm going to set out to build the prototype as soon as possible, and will report my results back.

[rbm]

Your idea to use the Menu switch for the Motogadget might be fraught with problems.  the way the switch works is:
- in the neutral resting position, the output on pin 9 is open circuit
- in the "A" position, +12V is presented on pin 9
- i the "B" position, the signal present on pin 8 is presented to pin 9

I think the Motogadget expects a pulsed ground signal, so you could connect pin 8 to ground and it would work when you press "B".  However you risk blowing up the gauge if you present +12V to the menu input if you accidentally press "A".  Unless you can cut the connection to +12V inside the switch cluster, I'd forget about using that switch for the intended purpose.

[Mike Flores]

In light of the complications associated with the Ducati Hypermotard Left Hand Switches, I’ve decided to take another approach.

I’ve located another left hand switch assembly, this time from a 2006 Kawasaki ZX10 (thankfully I have a good relationship with a semi-local moto dismantler). This has a basic Hi/Lo, Turn Signal switch, horn, and a “Lap Time” button which is just a momentary switch.

My plan is to mate this switchgear to the K100’s, and to use the “Lap Time” button as the switch for my Motogadget Chronoclassic instrument.

I think I have the wiring figured out, except for the Hi/Lo switch. (ZX 10 Wiring diagram is attached to this post)

rbm, Would you be willing to check my work for me?

ZX10 Controls Pin Mapping
Kawi                  BMW
Black/White   ->  LH pin 9
Black/Yellow  ->  LH pin 6

Green            ->  LH pin 3
Gray              ->  RH pin 5
Orange          ->  LH pin 6

White/Red   ->  Motogadget Button
Brown      ->  LH pin 6

Blue/Yellow   ->  ?
Red/Black   ->  ?

[rbm]

My plan is to mate this switchgear to the K100’s, and to use the “Lap Time” button as the switch for my Motogadget Chronoclassic instrument.

Completely doable, and much easier than the Ducati switch.


Left hand ZX10 Controls Pin Mapping
Kawi                  BMW
These horn connections are correct.
Black/White   ->  LH pin 9
Black/Yellow  ->  LH pin 6

You will have to completely eliminate the BMW flasher relay circuitry and substitute it with an aftermarket LED-compatible 3-wire flasher relay.  The wiring for the signals will then be:
Green            ->  "L" output on BMW flasher module socket (Blue/Black wire)
Gray              ->  "R" output on BMW flasher module socket (Blue/Red wire)
Orange          ->  aftermarket flasher relay output

White/Red   ->  Motogadget Button
Brown      ->  LH pin 6

Yeah, this is a bit more convoluted. LH pin 8 (Green/Blue) needs to be permanently wired to LH pin 4 (Yellow) so that the low beam headlight comes on with the ignition switch but yet is controlled by the LSR. The high beam wiring then becomes:
Blue/Yellow   ->  LH pin 8
Red/Black   ->  LH pin 1

The downside to this wiring is that both the low beam and high beam will illuminate when the high beam switch is engaged.  On the stock BMW harness, low beam is turned off when the high beam is turned on.  This means additional current draw from fuse 3 and through the LSR, the effect of which I'm not sure what could happen.  I hope it doesn't result in wire meltdown.  I'd STRONGLY suggest using headlight relays (and yes I did use capitals).

[Mike Flores]

Well, I have already ordered an eastern beaver headlight relay (was planning to do that regardless) and I'll also be running an LED headlamp. Hopefully that combination works well. Thank you for your help rbm!


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[Mike Flores]

rbm,

I’m struggling a little bit to understand exactly how to wire up the three wire flasher relay (or rather how it fits in with eliminating the stock flasher relay).

FYI, I have already modified the BMU by gutting the relay and jumping the necessary terminals, and I’ve also modified the green flasher relay by cutting the required
trace. Before attempting to connect the non BMW switchgear, I connected the stock K100 switches to verify that everything was functional after these modifications and the installation
of the TGPI board — Happy to report that Everything worked as expected, and the LED turn signals flashed at their normal rates. The neutral light on the motogadget worked, and I bumped the starter to verify that it worked (the fuel tank is off and disconnected, so I did not actually start the bike).

So would I be completely eliminating the green K100 flasher relay and replacing it with the 3 wire flasher relay? The connection that plugs into the stock flasher relay... what would I be doing with those wires?

I feel like mentioning that I'm very comfortable with all things mechanical, and even fabrication, but electronics and electrical systems have always seemed like black magic to me. I've been learning as I go, and so far my results have been great. I really appreciate the hand holding though, just think of me as a special needs student when it comes to electrics.

-Mike

[rbm]

rbm,

I’m struggling a little bit to understand exactly how to wire up the three wire flasher relay (or rather how it fits in with eliminating the stock flasher relay).

FYI, I have already modified the BMU by gutting the relay and jumping the necessary terminals, and I’ve also modified the green flasher relay by cutting the required
trace.

  The BMU circuit is completely independent of the signalling circuit and what you've done to the BMU does not affect the flasher.

So would I be completely eliminating the green K100 flasher relay and replacing it with the 3 wire flasher relay? The connection that plugs into the stock flasher relay... what would I be doing with those wires?

Yes, you'll be completely removing the green flasher relay and selling it on Ebay for gobs of money  :2thumbup:

Here's a generic diagram of how to connect up a three wire flasher relay:



Find a switched 12V line and attach it to the relay power.  Connect the relay's warning light output to the Motogadget turn signal indicator input; this will cause the indicator on the dash to flash in synchronisation with the bike's signals. 

Finally, connect the output of the flasher to the ZX10 switchgear. The wires you'll need to identify on the connector into which the OEM flasher used to plug are Blue/Black (left side) and Blue/Red (right side).  These wires you must somehow connect up to the Grey and Green wires on the ZX10 switchgear.

Does this make sense?

[Mike Flores]

Complete sense! Thank you!

[Mike Flores]

Documenting this for posterity's sake, in case someone in the future goes down this road and uses the same switch:

I figured out through some trial and error that when I wire up the Ducati start/kill switch according to the above method in rbm's first response, there is no kill switch and the power is always on. I went back to the K100 wiring diagram, and realized that there are two kill switch wires in the stock K100 switch and subsequently deduced the proper wiring configuration.

Incorrect Pin Mapping
Ducati                   BMW
Pin 1 (Blue/White)   ->      RH Pin 1 (Black/Yellow)
Pin 2 (Black)           ->      RH Pin 6 (Black/Green)
Pin 3 (Red/White)    ->      RH Pin 2 (Green/Yellow)
Pin 4 (Red/Black)     ->      RH Pin 6 (Black/Green)

Correct Pin Mapping
Ducati                   BMW
Pin 1 (Blue/White)   ->      RH Pin 1 (Black/Yellow)
Pin 2 (Black)           ->      RH Pin 6 (Black/Green)
Pin 3 (Red/White)    ->      RH Pin 2 (Green/Yellow)
Pin 4 (Red/Black)     ->      RH Pin 9 (Green)

This is in no way meant to disparage rbm's valuable contribution (I'd be lost without his guidance), but only to document the correct way in case others decide to follow this.

[BlitzenGruv]

 :heheheI thought the last German/Italian translator was shot in 1943.  :hehehe

[billday]

Jesus what a can of worms.

Stupid question: why would you need a headlight relay if you're running an LED headlight? Doesn't the LED draw much less current?

[rbm]

Information is scarce regarding the current draw of a 7" LED headlight, but piecing together info from various dubious Internet sources leads me to believe it's about 2 Amps.  That would depend on the design of course and how efficient it was with converting electrical energy to light.  That draw is less than half of a standard 55/60 halogen.

Outfitting the LED with relays would be overkill but it would also be foresighted, in the case where the owner might revert back to halogen or might equip the bike with halogen DRLs.

[Mike Flores]

At the moment, my bike is equipped with a 55W halogen (Hella Black Magic, Euro Driving beam pattern). It does not have a Hi, as it is a single filament H2 bulb. I've been going back and forth as to whether or not I want to use it as a headlight. So I have ordered an LED H4 type headlamp in case I decide not to use the Hella.

Either way, the relay never seems like a bad idea.


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[Mike Flores]

Okay, having some issues getting the turn signals working...

I picked up this relay online from Amazon...


here's it's diagram:


I've connected switched 12v power from the K100 fuse panel 1 (Green/Black wire) to the "B +" terminal of the relay.
I've connected the Orange wire from the Kawasaki switch to the "L" terminal of the relay.
I've connected the Green wire from the Kawasaki switch to the Blue/Black wire on the original flasher unit output.
I've connected the Grey wire from the Kawasaki switch to the Blue/Red wire on the original flasher unit output.

I'm slightly confused as to how to connect the third relay terminal to the motogadget... the chronoclassic has two wires for the turn signal inputs, one for left (Corresponding to K100 Instrument pin 19 Blue/Red) and one for right (K100 instrument pin 17 Blue/Black). Looking at the K100 overall wiring diagram, they are the same wires that output to the turn signal lamps. So should I just connect both of these wires to the third relay output? (I've tried that out now).

As of right now, the Kawasaki turn signal switch only triggers the indicator warning lamp in the chronoclassic, but not the actual turn signals. The indicator warning lamp in the motogadget is flashing at a normal turn signal rate, but there is no output to the turn signal lamps.

Do I have the wrong type of relay?

Here's a photo of the current wiring of the new flasher relay:

[rbm]

Ok, so this relay is slightly different than the one I detected above in my post.  From the photo, you appear to have connected both the Blue/Red and Blue/Black wires to the "L" output.  If my eyes don't deceive me, then this is wrong.  Please follow this wiring scheme:

- Connect pin "B" on the relay to switched  +12V
- Connect pin "E" on the relay to ground (Brown) of the bike
- Connect pin "L" on the relay to Orange on the Kawi switch
- Connect the Blue/Red from the K100 flasher relay socket to Gray on the Kawi switch
- Connect the Blue/Black from the K100 flasher relay socket to Green on the Kawi switch
- Connect the Blue/Red from pin 19 of the OEM instrument cluster to Orange/White  on the Motogadget
- Connect the Blue/Black from pin 17 of the OEM instrument cluster to White/Brown on the Motogadget

[Mike Flores]

rbm,

You were correct... I had it wrong. It is now hooked up per your instructions, and the front turns are working perfectly. However, I'm having a strange problem with my taillight/brakelight/rear turns LED strip now.

At the moment, my rear running taillight does not illuminate with the ignition switch on.
Brake light function is normal when I apply the front brake lever (rear brake switch is not connected yet).
When the Kawasaki handlebar turn switch is to Left, front left turn signal works fine - Nothing happens on rear turn signal.
When the Kawasaki handlebar turn switch is to Left AND brake is applied, rear Right turn signal lamp is illuminated.
When the Kawasaki handlebar turn switch is to Right, nothing happens on rear turn signal.
When the Kawasaki handlebar turn switch is to Right AND brake is applied, rear Left turn signal lamp is illuminated.

Normal and correct function of the rear LED strip was established before attempting to change the handlebar switches - when I connected the BMW handlebar switches up to test function of the rear LED strip and the TGPI board, everything worked as it should.

The BMU has been removed, and the appropriate wires shorted to each other (Grey/Black to Grey/White) and (Grey/Yellow to Grey/Red to Grey/Green).

Here are some photos showing the current setup:
Flasher Relay working:


BMU Removed/Modded:


Am I missing something obvious here?

[Mike Flores]

Update:

The rear turns are now on the correct side. We mixed up the wire colors at the stock flasher output, and I connected them to the Kawasaki switch backwards. So that part is fixed (which was the most perplexing to me).

But, I still only have turns to the LED strip when the brake switch is closed.

According to the K100 wiring diagram, and tracing my actual wires, the running light should be working. However, there is a "Dual element circuit" that came with my LED strip that allows it to be used as both running light and brake light. When functioning normally, the strip is always illuminated and when the brakes are applied the light output intensifies. There are also a pair of mini relay circuits ("Drugz Circuit" - stupidest name ever btw), one for each side, that allow the strip to also triple function as turn signal lamps.

At this point, I think the issue may be in that dual element circuit, since the running light is the only function of the strip not currently working (could I have fried this out by hooking up the new LED flasher relay incorrectly?). Luckily, I have a spare dual element circuit on hand. But before I go through the trouble of cutting the old one out and installing a new one, what would be a good way to test the running light output from the K100's connection side? (I do have a multimeter)

Here is the circuit diagram for the dual element circuit, as well as the turn signal relays:


Here's a photo of the tail light connection. It's unmodified from stock other than swapping the connector for an AMP superseal connector:

[rbm]

Have you checked Fuse 2 to see if it is blown or not?  It's the circuit supplying the running light power.  It is also supplying the power for the front parking light.  Have you eliminated that light?

[Mike Flores]

Yes, I checked Fuse 2, and replaced it with a new one just for good measure. The front parking light has been eliminated, along with the Grey/White wire from the parking light all the way to it's connection at Fuse 2. The Grey/White wire is live from Fuse 2 and shorted to the Grey/Black wire.

[Mike Flores]

Update... I'm not getting power to the Grey/Black running light power.

I shorted the Grey/Black running light power to the Green/Black 12v switched power wire, and everything functions normally. So now I just need to figure out why the Grey ignition wire and Grey/White wire from Fuse 2 is not supplying power to the Grey/Black running light wire.

I'm wondering if I may have caused this by removing the Grey/Blue wire that corresponds to Pin 7 on the RH switch cluster, as well as Pin 24 on the Instrument cluster. I cut it just behind the connection from the Ignition switch.

At least I'm making progress on this...

[rbm]

Uh, yeah, that would do it.  The Gray wire from the ignition is the power source to Fuse 2.  Gray will either get power from the Red wire when the ignition switch is on Park position, or from Gray/Blue when in the Run position.  Do you get power on Gray/White in the Park position?

[Mike Flores]

Uh, yeah, that would do it.  The Gray wire from the ignition is the power source to Fuse 2.  Gray will either get power from the Red wire when the ignition switch is on Park position, or from Gray/Blue when in the Run position.  Do you get power on Gray/White in the Park position?

That's exactly it! Mystery solved.

Yes, when the ignition is in the Park position, the running light is on. I hadn't noticed that until you just said to try it.

So I removed the Gray/Blue because it wasn't connected to anything that I was using anymore (or so I thought)... what could I connect it to in order to fix the circuit on fuse 2? Or do I really need to bother?

This might be a radical idea, but is there any danger in connecting the Grey/Black running light wire directly to the Green/Black 12V switched power wire?