Author Topic: K100 starting trouble (Read 13738 times)

TNastsyDwnTwn · « **on:** July 21, 2016, 12:14:14 AM »

Good morning everyone,
I recently bought 1985 k100rs. I went to start it this afternoon and discovered that it would not start. The light, horn, and indicators would all work. I did notice that the gear indicator wasn't not operating. i tried to start the bike with the clutch lever pulled in and that also did not work. Any advice would help!
Thank you

The Dude · « **Reply #1 on:** July 21, 2016, 01:45:13 AM »

Hi,TNast
The search function will tell you all you need to know on this with flow chart diagnosticals an all.Apparently,it's all humanly doable and well worth the journey.
All the best.

TNastsyDwnTwn · « **Reply #2 on:** July 21, 2016, 02:09:58 AM »

Thank you for the response.
If you don't mind, what do I need to search? I'm I haven't a clue what to search to narrow the search down.

The Dude · « **Reply #3 on:** July 21, 2016, 03:00:36 AM »

Click search (next to help).then type "no start",then click search
You get this view.Take some time to read.If or when you've become learned enough from your research your questions would be well received if you list all the issues and all checks,all results with your post.

jay1622 · « **Reply #4 on:** July 21, 2016, 07:57:28 AM »

OP,

Some random questions... Was it running when you bought it? Was it running, or, has it run since you've had it? What symptoms, if any, did it have? The "light" is the dash lights, the parking light, the headlamp? By "would," does that mean none of the lights are working now? The gear indicator will not work unless the key is in the on position and the kill switch is in the center "on/run" position. Does it turn over? If so, do you hear anything odd? Are your hearing your fuel pump working? If it turns over, does it sound like it at-least wants to start? Do you smell gas at the exhaust? Have you tested to see if your getting fuel? Have you tested to see if your getting spark? How's the battery? How's the starter relay?

Many of these will be remedied by The Dude's search example. This forum has saved my a$$ countless lost hours and money, and it's my turn to pay it back, but I/we need a lot more info from ya.

I'm going to PM you a few references. Go to Fault Diagnoses on page 17 of the second link. This forum and these two links should do well for you.

kennybobby · « **Reply #5 on:** July 21, 2016, 10:06:26 AM »

You would have to search for 'K-bike flow chart bert vogel' or know to look in the library card catalog of the technical library section.

flow chart

Laitch · « **Reply #6 on:** July 21, 2016, 10:08:15 AM »

If you put the city or region of the USA where you live, nearby angels might consider helping you—if they've nothing better to do.

rbm · « **Reply #7 on:** July 21, 2016, 05:20:53 PM »

Laitch, It's Charlotte, North Carolina. It's in his signature.

Laitch · « **Reply #8 on:** July 21, 2016, 05:24:00 PM »

Quote from: rbm on July 21, 2016, 05:20:53 PM

Laitch, It's Charlotte, North Carolina. It's in his signature.

I was attempting to communicate with the OP, rbm. I should have quoted from his post or addressed him by his handle to make that clear.

TNastsyDwnTwn · « **Reply #9 on:** July 21, 2016, 06:11:32 PM »

OK, when I bought the bike a few weeks ago in ran fine and started fine. Yesterday I removed the speedometer housing to see if i could fix the speedometer problem. When I went to put it on I realized the gear indicator was not on. I can't hear he fuel pump when I cut it on the run position. All the lights come on and then I hit the start button nothing happens. When I hit the start button I hear nothing nd the bike will not try to cut on.

Laitch · « **Reply #10 on:** July 21, 2016, 06:29:11 PM »

Quote from: TNastsyDwnTwn on July 21, 2016, 06:11:32 PM

OK, when I bought the bike a few weeks ago in ran fine and started fine. Yesterday I removed the speedometer housing to see if i could fix the speedometer problem. When I went to put it on I realized the gear indicator was not on. I can't hear he fuel pump when I cut it on the run position. All the lights come on and then I hit the start button nothing happens. When I hit the start button I hear nothing nd the bike will not try to cut on.

What were you trying to repair in the speedometer? It's significant that the bike stopped working after you got in there. Maybe you just need a better cable connection.

Disconnect the electronic cable from the speedometer housing, clean the pins with a swab of electronic cleaner then reconnect the cable firmly. Maybe just disconnecting and reconnecting will do it.Let us know the outcome.

If that doesn't change things, follow the three procedures at the top of this workshop page, then let us know the outcome of that.

TNastsyDwnTwn · « **Reply #11 on:** July 21, 2016, 08:13:55 PM »

OK I took the speedometer apart again and cleaned it and it's still the same. I have noticed that the entire right side of the unit is not lit up. If I sit on the bike with clutch pulled in and rock the bike I think I can hear the fuel pump buzzing but I'm not sure.

Motorhobo · « **Reply #12 on:** July 21, 2016, 09:13:16 PM »

Before you do anything else, make sure your battery is providing enough juice, not just voltage but cold cranking amps, to power the bike. There are more posts on electrical problems from inadequate battery power on this forum than probably any other cause. Weird stuff happens to kbikes on low juice.

I've had batteries test 12 volts but not enough amperage to engage the starter. Best to start looking at the beginning of the power chain, and that would be the battery itself.

If you search the forum you'll find my thread on this very issue where I beat my head against the wall trying all sorts of stuff until I finally broke down, got a new battery for $50 and vroom...fired right up.

kennybobby · « **Reply #13 on:** July 21, 2016, 10:20:41 PM »

Did you check the fuses, esp #1 and 6

TNastsyDwnTwn · « **Reply #14 on:** July 21, 2016, 10:46:16 PM »

OK I put the battery on a Charging tender. I will check it tomorrow morning. I hope that is all that is wrong with it.

TNastsyDwnTwn · « **Reply #15 on:** July 21, 2016, 10:49:48 PM »

I will check those fuses when I get home.
Thank you

TNastsyDwnTwn · « **Reply #16 on:** July 21, 2016, 11:46:15 PM »

Ok so the first fuse was blown. I will pick up another one in the morning. I hope that this is the cure all. :clap:

kennybobby · « **Reply #17 on:** July 22, 2016, 12:16:57 AM »

Better get a few since it may just blow again unless you figure out why or where it shorted.

Fuse #1 gets power when the key switch is turned to ON and the kill switch is in the RUN position, that power is labelled as '15' in bosch schematics.

The circuits that are energized thru fuse #1 have green/black wires and include:

Bulb Monitoring Unit
Clutch Switch
F Brake Switch
R Brake Switch
Instrument Cluster (Gear Display)
Heated Grips
Additional Equipment Connector
Additional Instrument Connector

So something in one of these circuits is likely shorted to ground and causing the fuse to blow.

The starter won't engage without '15' power passing thru either the clutch switch or the IC (with Gear in N) to the start button and then to the starter relay when the button is pressed.

TNastsyDwnTwn · « **Reply #18 on:** July 22, 2016, 12:27:29 AM »

Ok thank you. There is alot of wire hanging from all sort of extra stuff that is no longer in use. I will check the heated grips because they are no longer in use. Thank you

Motorhobo · « **Reply #19 on:** July 22, 2016, 05:26:38 AM »

Keep in mind that the battery tender will give your battery temporary voltage but not power. I did exactly that to a battery that was on its way out -- put it on the tender -- and afterwards it tested at 12 volts and provided enough juice to turn on the lights. But since the battery was functionally dead, it did not provide enough cold cranking amps to engage the starter or crank the engine. If you replace the fuse and the problem persists, take the battery to an auto parts store and have them test it for amperage or CCA. Or, just get another battery at the local battery warehouse for $50. Cranking a K-Bike with a bad battery can lead to all kinds of bad mojo. Speaking from experience here...

TNastsyDwnTwn · « **Reply #20 on:** July 22, 2016, 09:34:42 AM »

Fuse fixed it! I was thinking way to hard and wasn't sure what fuse controlled what. Thank you all.

TNastsyDwnTwn · « **Reply #21 on:** July 22, 2016, 09:40:13 AM »

One quick question. Is it normal for smoke to come out of exhaust for a few minutes?

Laitch · « **Reply #22 on:** July 22, 2016, 10:01:10 AM »

Quote from: TNastsyDwnTwn on July 22, 2016, 09:40:13 AM

One quick question. Is it normal for smoke to come out of exhaust for a few minutes?

That happens when it's been parked on the side stand for awhile. It's good for mosquito control.

Laitch · « **Reply #23 on:** July 22, 2016, 10:09:40 AM »

:2thumbup: to TNastsyDwnTwn for rapid response to suggestions, and a daquiri-filled half-coconut commemorative of The Great Heat Dome of 2016 is awarded to kennybobby for reminding us to keep looking for the simplest solution.

TNastsyDwnTwn · « **Reply #24 on:** July 22, 2016, 10:28:48 AM »

Yes sir. Im sure I will have more questions through but out this build! Thanks again!

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Author Topic: K100 starting trouble (Read 13738 times)