1988 K75S Clutch Adjust Question (New Cable)

[jay1622]

So, no matter how many times I go back to it, I can't quite get the 75mm gap between the end of the cable lug and where the cable comes out of the shroud (not the liner). I tossed the old one before (without) comparing it to the new one. If the new cable is a perfect match, my only other guess would be the bearing race mount isn't fully seated onto the clutch rod; though, I'm sure it is. Anyone happen to know the distance between the top of the lug and another permanent spot. I'm thinking the restrictor hole where the cable is held in place on top of the gear box. Any other thoughts?

Condition: entire clutch pack is new, parts are lubed, clutch feels great and is working perfectly (not running yet, turning the driveshaft by hand), clutch rod is straight/true, bearing race is properly lubed and installed, new clutch boot, the adjuster bolt is finger tight against bearing cap just to the point of resistance and the locknut is locked.

Oh, if I do adjust it to force the proper gap, the clutch becomes engaged and there is, obviously, zero free play.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

With the end of the cable disconnected from the clutch arm, can you get the proper 75mm by adjusting at the lever? 

When you have that set, connect the end of the cable to the arm and adjust the screw to just be touching the clutch rod.

Then screw in the adjuster at the clutch lever to get the proper amount of free play.

If you are still having problems, I would double check the routing of the cable and the part number printed on the jacket.  It should be easy to get the 75mm on a new cable.  I am assuming you have an OEM cable and not an aftermarket cable.

[TimTyler]

Make sure the push rod bearing is not installed backwards.

What are you using to measure the 75mm? I use a 5" piece of wire coat hanger with 90-degree bends at the 1" and 4" marks.

Have you adjusted the screw and lock nut around the top end of the cable at the hand lever?

[jay1622]

Good morning! Just got back into town from a business trip and couldn't wait to tear back into this thing. I took everything apart (relating to the cable), which is not all that much when you're doing a rebuild, and reinstalled it from scratch using what you guys talked about. Don't ask me why, but for whatever reason, the shop manual, the climers manual, and the hanes manual confused me - for whatever reason. Your posts spelled it out. That, or I just need to walk away from it and go back to it. Most likely both. Either way, it is spot on now and totally in spec. Thank you!

Bump over to the "what have I done today" thread. I am fairly far along and should be installing the wiring harness in the next week or so.  I also grinded the valve and crank covers today bring back the original BMW logo and lines.