Author Topic: Conventional but unconventional- My k100 build (Read 180476 times)

jjs1234 · « **Reply #250 on:** July 16, 2016, 02:00:33 PM »

My Acewell has a speed + and - input.

The bep just says speed.

I could definitely try connecting the - to a ground.

my acewell has this, could this be used instead of wrapping around the cable? And as you said connect it to the coil?

If I remember correctly, someone said the coil packs fire twice, meaning 2 Sparks ignite when only one is needed. Meaning acewell would get two pulses instead of one?

rbm · « **Reply #251 on:** July 16, 2016, 02:28:28 PM »

Oh, on the Acewell. My advice still stands - Speed- to Ground and Speed+ to the BEP "Speed" output. Normally, the Acewell would expect a SPST reed switch to be connected between Speed (+/-).

Yes, the K100 uses a wasted spark system meaning you'll want to program the Acewell for 2 cylinders, not 4.

jjs1234 · « **Reply #252 on:** July 16, 2016, 02:48:35 PM »

Quote from: rbm on July 16, 2016, 02:28:28 PM

Oh, on the Acewell. My advice still stands - Speed- to Ground and Speed+ to the BEP "Speed" output. Normally, the Acewell would expect a SPST reed switch to be connected between Speed (+/-).

Yes, the K100 uses a wasted spark system meaning you'll want to program the Acewell for 2 cylinders, not 4.

Superb!!

Thanks so much RBM! :2thumbup:

Today:

Re-assembling the forks (dont have all the parts yet- mostly O-rings and stuff), re-adjusting the triple trees to be more loose and assembling the handlebars.

With luck I might fill her up with some fluid and gas and give it a test-run!! :eek:

jjs1234 · « **Reply #253 on:** July 17, 2016, 01:57:20 PM »

Ran into some issues that I did not anticipate. The K 1100 accelerator does not have the correct screws which is not a big deal since I'll just take it to the hardware store. Houses seem to be missing a cover on it that covers the Bowden cable connector.

The bigger issue however, is that since I had to modify the plate to accept the K 1100 cable ( and I don't know if this is because of the directions or because it was my fault)

But the cable is now too long.

The black marks are the slack. Any ideas how to solve? It is approximately 1 inch and that's with the adjuster in halfway to keep any useful adjustments in the future.

Martin · « **Reply #254 on:** July 17, 2016, 02:24:41 PM »

In the dark ages you used to be able to get cables with adjustable nipples, they were held in position by a small screw. Or remove your cable go to a wreckers and compare cables until you find one that fits. Or have it shortened.
Regards Martin.

jjs1234 · « **Reply #255 on:** July 17, 2016, 02:31:02 PM »

Going to see what I can find at the hardware store.

The other thing I was thinking of was taking a small drill bit and drilling out the center and then using some sort of epoxy or something to stick it in place.

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Martin · « **Reply #256 on:** July 17, 2016, 02:48:32 PM »

We used to silver solder them on due to he fact a lot of the cables were stainless steel. If you are competent and careful and either use heat paste or stick the cable in a bucket of water with only the end of the inner cable protruding it might be possible to make a new nipple and silver solder it on. The removable nipples might be available at a carburettor place, they used to be used on universal choke cables and throttle cables. I can also remember breaking apart an electrical connector block in order to make up a nipple.
Regards Martin.

rbm · « **Reply #257 on:** July 17, 2016, 02:50:03 PM »

I and several others have converted K100 to K1100 TBs and K1100 front ends, and have not encountered this problem. In fact, the length of the K1100 cable is slightly short and requires modification of the plate on the TB. Which instructions have you followed?

jjs1234 · « **Reply #258 on:** July 17, 2016, 03:17:54 PM »

The one that's here on motobrick. I can link it later but for the moment I might have also bought the wrong cable I'm not sure. It was on eBay.

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jjs1234 · « **Reply #259 on:** July 17, 2016, 03:47:26 PM »

I have a k100tb... is that why?

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jjs1234 · « **Reply #260 on:** July 17, 2016, 04:33:38 PM »

Ah doesn't matter. I got it to work. I found one similar at the hardware store with a screw, then thread Locker'd it, and then ground off the metal that wasn't needed. Ta-da!

Just like the thread states:

Conventional but unconventional...

Martin · « **Reply #261 on:** July 17, 2016, 04:52:49 PM »

:2thumbup: Necessity is the mother of ~~dementia~~ invention.
Regards Martin.

jjs1234 · « **Reply #262 on:** July 17, 2016, 06:11:11 PM »

Will probably get another throttle cable and do the same. However I bet it is unlikely to break as much as a clutch cable.

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rbm · « **Reply #263 on:** July 17, 2016, 06:18:39 PM »

My article on K1100 front end installation: installing-k1100-front-brakes-on-a-non-abs-k100rt

Another article which covers the same topic: k1100-throttle-bodies-on-a-k100

Both articles touch on the subject of K1100 front MC and the K1100 throttle cable adaption to the K100 TBs.

jjs1234 · « **Reply #264 on:** July 17, 2016, 06:23:05 PM »

Thank is rbm.

I have the guide on PDF in my drive and was referring to it. I however did not refer to specific part numbers. Maybe I bought the wrong cable... not sure.

But what I've done works.

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rbm · « **Reply #265 on:** July 17, 2016, 06:24:01 PM »

Congrats on the out of the box thinking.

jjs1234 · « **Reply #266 on:** July 18, 2016, 09:28:04 PM »

Got all my front end Fork parts today. Hopefully I will have the front wheel on tonight. Going to use this measuring cup to fill up my Forks, who would have known 400 cc equals 400 milliliters...

Laitch · « **Reply #267 on:** July 18, 2016, 09:42:06 PM »

Quote from: rbm on July 04, 2016, 07:49:42 PM

Going to use this measuring cup to fill up my Forks, who would have known 400 cc equals 400 milliliters...

I'm guessing most of the rest of the world who need to measure something

jjs1234 · « **Reply #268 on:** July 19, 2016, 02:08:59 AM »

Got the forks done, fluid put in.

No hiccups, but then she said:

Not so fast!

2 bolts that hold the axle in got toasted somehow. I'm thinking powder coat got in the threads.

I got 12.8 hardness ( OEM is 8.8) bolts, mostly for the color and ease of availability. Anyway they went in and then they didn't. They were a lot harder to remove then install...

Figures:

Going to drill out the remaining threads on both holes and then put a bolt on the other side instead.

Almost done:

jjs1234 · « **Reply #269 on:** July 19, 2016, 11:16:29 PM »

Well that was fun. No idea why that's been happening...

One of the other bolts on the other side was starting to show signs when loosening. It was all the way in though.

Going to clean the muffler. I moved that 3 out of the 4 pipes were loose.

Easy enough just to retighten, or will I get so e sort of bad result by not replacing some gasket inside?

jjs1234 · « **Reply #270 on:** July 20, 2016, 01:34:05 AM »

Random question:

How do I tighten these?

rbm · « **Reply #271 on:** July 20, 2016, 06:34:10 AM »

with old fashion side clippers (called oetiker pliers) like these. Available at big box hardware stores.

Laitch · « **Reply #272 on:** July 20, 2016, 08:04:41 AM »

One variety is sometimes called a nail puller and used as such.

jjs1234 · « **Reply #273 on:** July 20, 2016, 10:38:51 AM »

sweet, thanks for the advice RBM and Laitch!

jjs1234 · « **Reply #274 on:** July 21, 2016, 05:35:26 PM »

Quote from: rbm on July 04, 2016, 07:49:42 PM

2 pieces of stainless steel braided line for the splitter -> calipers.
- one end has a straight male connector, metric 10mm x 1.0, convex head. This will fit into the splitter on the fork brace.
- other end has a 45 degree banjo connector to accept a metric 10mm x 1.0 banjo bolt. This will attach to the brake calliper.
- Total length of the line is 38cm (15 inches) from the end of the straight male to the centre of the banjo fitting

1 piece of stainless steel braided line for the master cylinder -> splitter.
- both ends have 45 degree banjo connectors to accept a metric 10mm x 1.0 banjo bolt.
- Total length of the line is 100cm (39 inches) from centre to centre of the banjo fittings

With experience, I found the MC -> splitter line may be a bit shorter (90cm) and probably better with a straight banjo at the MC end. It would probably make a cleaner route.

A bit curious on these lengths. I did some measurements with plastic tubing and found something like

12in for Caliper to T Splitter.
26in from Master Brake to T Splitter.

I saw the 90Cm comment which is 35in. Why so long?

My measurements might be slightly off. The pre-cut and terminated hoses I was planning to buy are the inches from flange-to-flange.

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Author Topic: Conventional but unconventional- My k100 build (Read 180476 times)