Author Topic: HELP!! Can't run it. URGENT! (Read 43866 times)

Inge K. · « **Reply #25 on:** March 29, 2015, 01:12:53 PM »

Strange this, as you have fuel pressure and have confirmed that you have signal when testing with a LED.

But you mentioned that a new non OEM FPR is mounted.....could you have mixed the hoses when connecting
that one? .....rearmost spigot on the tank is from the pump and should be connected to the front of the rail,
frontmost spigot on the tank is the return from the FPR.
Is the non OEM FPR itself correctly connected?

Other this and that in the electrical system that have been disturbed during the winter?

PiotrK100 · « **Reply #26 on:** March 29, 2015, 01:52:24 PM »

Look at the picture. The aftermarket FPR is disconnected and I do use the old ones which was normaly working on the Autumn.
Regarding the harnes, I took off all and placed in a dry place covering with a piece of fabric. Computer was stored separately in a more safer place just in case.

Inge K. · « **Reply #27 on:** March 29, 2015, 02:26:38 PM »

FPR seems to be correct connected.

You could also check if power is present in the engine harness.
Remove the connector from the TPS, when you push the starter button you should measure 12V+ at the
contact in the middle of the three inside the connector.

PiotrK100 · « **Reply #28 on:** March 29, 2015, 02:53:00 PM »

Will do as you suggest and measure TPS for voltage. What eles commes to your mind that I can check? I'm totally confused with all that situation and makes me sleepless nights. What can cose that injectors does not supply the fuel????

Inge K. · « **Reply #29 on:** March 29, 2015, 03:02:51 PM »

Quote from: PiotrK100 on March 29, 2015, 02:53:00 PM

What can cose that injectors does not supply the fuel????

1. If you don't have fuel pressure.
2. If you don't have power to the injectors.
3. If you don't have signal to the injectors.

First we must find which one is missing, then try to find out why this is missing.

PiotrK100 · « **Reply #30 on:** March 29, 2015, 03:22:35 PM »

Fuel pressure is sufficient, that is sure. Will check again the power on injectors (any other manner to check it, or LED will be ok?). For what should I pay attention checking power on injectors? Because I have feeling that there is no signal but must be sure while checking the power on injectors.
Yesterday LED flashed when checking so according to this looks like the power should be there.

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #31 on:** March 29, 2015, 04:15:00 PM »

Step 1: Take your LED and connect it to your battery so it lights up. Mark the wire that is connected to + when the LED lights.

Step 2: Connect the wire you marked in step 1 to one of the terminals in the injector connector. Connect the other wire to ground. Turn on the ignition and try to start the engine. If the LED lights great, you have power to the injector. If not, connect to the other terminal and see if it works there.

Step 3: With the LED connected so it lights up, take the LED wire you connected to ground and put it on the other terminal and try to start the engine. The LED should flash as the engine turns over.

rbm · « **Reply #32 on:** March 29, 2015, 04:27:35 PM »

<had a suggestion but decided it wasn't relative to the problem>

Ok, another suggestion - maybe better this time. Bosch LE-Jetronic debug flowchart:

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #33 on:** March 29, 2015, 04:32:40 PM »

Rob, I think he confirmed spark earlier in the thread.

PiotrK100 · « **Reply #34 on:** March 30, 2015, 03:35:52 AM »

Will do the test with LED later today as you suggested. Earlier I did connect LED wires do both injector terminals pin not as you suggested, + to the terminal and ground separately.
The flow chart looks promissigly, will follow up..

johnny · « **Reply #35 on:** March 30, 2015, 08:39:08 AM »

stuck injectors... no lubrication after rebuild... now stuck months later... go with it...

j o

PiotrK100 · « **Reply #36 on:** March 30, 2015, 09:15:37 AM »

Hi. I use old pressure regulator to be sure that is working. Will not connect the new ones until engines start and I find the injector problem. You can see on the pic that new regulator is not connected.

PiotrK100 · « **Reply #37 on:** March 30, 2015, 11:30:16 AM »

I just connected LED to the injector while cranking and.....flashes!!!!
Checked earth on wires connected to frame and OK. What should I do now? It confused me a lot. GAs pump shows about 3 kg/cm2.

All works but engine not. Should I suspect ecu unit beneah the seat? If yes how to check it?

keith g · « **Reply #38 on:** March 30, 2015, 02:03:46 PM »

it sounds like you did what i did,and connected the fuel hoses the wrong way round at the tank........easy done...!

PiotrK100 · « **Reply #39 on:** March 30, 2015, 02:33:02 PM »

Well, that come to mine mine at the first, but look the picture and the connection all looks as should be, or m'I wrong?
No cant be wrong way round. Of course I can replace them again but everywhere looks like similar. Any idea?

keith g · « **Reply #40 on:** March 30, 2015, 02:52:00 PM »

well if the plugs are dry,it sounds like you got the fuel pipes on the wrong outlets on the tank,it would explain the high fuel pressure...

rbm · « **Reply #41 on:** March 30, 2015, 03:16:18 PM »

When the tank is mounted, the spigot CLOSEST to the headstock is the RETURN; the spigot FARTHEST from the headstock is the SUPPLY. So, the line that goes to the fuel rail should be connected to the most rearward pipe and the output from the FPR should go to the most forward pipe. Does that make sense?

Check out the images below for better clarity:

johnny · « **Reply #42 on:** March 30, 2015, 03:27:39 PM »

dang rbm...

if flow isnt into that metal pipe... all my filters have been in backwards... is it counter clockwise... pump > filter > pipe...

j o

PiotrK100 · « **Reply #43 on:** March 30, 2015, 03:40:22 PM »

Yes, that is exactly as I connected....would be too easy if I mess it up

I do not say that I did not connect something wrong but from the other hand that is very difficult to connect wrong. But still, do not have idea what to do now.

rbm · « **Reply #44 on:** March 30, 2015, 04:47:31 PM »

That's right JO. counter-clockwise pump > filter > pipe. Then fuel rail > FPR > return pipe.

PiotrK100 · « **Reply #45 on:** March 30, 2015, 04:51:29 PM »

Robert, do you have any idea what kind of mistake I may did, or where to dig to find the failure?

rbm · « **Reply #46 on:** March 30, 2015, 05:37:13 PM »

So, you've indicated that everything exists to cause combustion but nothing works.

You've confirmed the spark plugs are firing. This means the ICU, HES and coils are operating. Also, the spark plug wires and connections are solid. We assume the right wire is connected to the right plug.

You confirm fuel pump works for 1.5 seconds after hitting the starter and provides pressure of at least 2.5 bar. That means the FI relay is working as is the ICU again. Also the FPR is working properly and the fuel lines are routed properly.

You confirm your newly reconditioned injectors are getting pulsed during cranking which means the ECU is functioning as are the injectors and communication between the ICU and ECU. You said you had wet injectors but dry plugs. Is that still the case?

Have you checked the connection to the temperature sensor on the coolant return pipe? It determines enrichment on starting which you might not be getting if it were malfunctioning. As shown in the flow diagram, test resistance between pin 10 on the ECU multipin plug and ground. Refer to this table to determine the correct reading:

°C....Ohm.

20....2480
30....1660
40....1140
50....800
60....570
70....420
80....310
90....235
100...180

The other element that has a huge effect on fueling is the AFM. Is that device correctly and securely fastened to the wiring harness?

Inge asked a very pertinent question earlier in this thread which you sidestepped. I'll ask it again. What electrical work have you done to the wiring while it was apart during the winter? The answer to this might give a clue where to search next.

BTW, have you hooked up the OEM instrument cluster during your testing or are you now using your aftermarket gauge?

PiotrK100 · « **Reply #47 on:** March 31, 2015, 03:38:02 AM »

The OEM speedo has been sell already and the new one is not hooked up. Speedo wires are not connected just hanging securely. I just wanted fire up the engine to see if all was connected correctly before I start messing with harnes. Also to see if any of repairing is leaking.
Inge ask me about if I did anything to the electrical system during winter time but I just take out all off the frame and put aside, nothing was mess up appart from new fuse box with cover.
AFM was correctly seated but will check it again. Temperature sensor was working before correctly and as I see is connected corrctly. I'll disconnect and clean the connectors.
Having regard the connection to the pin 10, will you pls highlight me how to do that? Is that a way to check temp sensor? I found now interactive diagram so see the connection. But what if the resistance will be diffrent ?

PiotrK100 · « **Reply #48 on:** March 31, 2015, 09:16:11 AM »

I measured the resistance, hope it is a right PIN I connect to. PIctures attached below. The ambient temp was approx. 14 °C
Speedo, as I said, is not attached.

gazman · « **Reply #49 on:** March 31, 2015, 10:18:37 AM »

PiotrK100, cant help with advice, just encouragement. . . . . . .this will make you stronger

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Author Topic: HELP!! Can't run it. URGENT! (Read 43866 times)