Author Topic: Temperature light flickering (Read 59136 times)

Inge K. · « **Reply #100 on:** February 24, 2015, 10:24:41 PM »

Since you have confirmed that you have power in the wire to the pump, the next step is to find out why the
pump isn't running..........one step at the time.

About intermittent ground function in the ignition ECU (which isn't confirmed yet).....in another forum I'm a
member this particular error have happened to four different K's during the last three years.

SeanK75 · « **Reply #101 on:** February 25, 2015, 09:11:13 PM »

So some wierd things happening. Pulled the pump out and tested it Through the tank wiring and getting no response from the pump. I hooked up my power tester to be safe at the same time, pump definitely getting power. I was about to toss the pump in the parts bin but I decided to test it from the battery and sure enough it kicked over. Then I tried again through the tank wiring again and it worked. It felt like it had more kick from the battery it seemed to torque more in my hands. Could it be getting less power through the tank?

Maybe something was stuck and it worked it's way out. the filter seemed a little clogged. A little tough to blow through but not impossible. Picking up a replacement filter tomorrow to compare and test everything again.

Thoughts?

Elipten · « **Reply #102 on:** February 25, 2015, 09:16:09 PM »

What do those tank wires look like? Just worked an a friend's bike and the insulation on the wires to the pump was brittle and lots of it missing. Also wires partly oxidized.

SeanK75 · « **Reply #103 on:** February 25, 2015, 09:52:34 PM »

They don't look too bad at a glance. Tank was clean, but the pump pre filter was shot. It was open on both ends and falling apart.

Inge K. · « **Reply #104 on:** February 25, 2015, 09:59:17 PM »

Quote from: SeanK75 on February 25, 2015, 09:11:13 PM

Pulled the pump out and tested it Through the tank wiring and getting no response from the pump. I was about to toss the pump in the parts bin but I decided to test it from the battery and sure enough it kicked over.

That's why I wanted you to test the pump outside of the tank, and what I did have in mind was to test it
directly from a battery... to rule out if the last part of the wiring was some part of the problem or not.
Yes, it happens that the terminals at the bottom of the tank goes bad...especially the ground side.

Quote from: SeanK75 on February 25, 2015, 09:11:13 PM

Maybe something was stuck and it worked it's way out. the filter seemed a little clogged.

That's why I earlier wanted you to try and reverse the pump for a short period, since you also earlier also
did have a clogged prefilter.....it could be that enough particles have find it's way into the pump to make a
problem (just guessing)........~~since the prefilter is clogged again it seems like a good idea to clean out the tank~~.

Inge K. · « **Reply #105 on:** February 25, 2015, 10:04:25 PM »

Quote from: SeanK75 on February 25, 2015, 09:52:34 PM

but the pump pre filter was shot. It was open on both ends and falling apart.

Wasn't that a rather New filter? Could be a part of the problem, as it could be that you have got dirt into the pump.

SeanK75 · « **Reply #106 on:** February 25, 2015, 10:05:21 PM »

How can I test the tank wiring? Is it on on or off type of thing? Or can I inspect it visually? Everything looks really clean in the tank. Visually, the only amiss was the pump filter.

SeanK75 · « **Reply #107 on:** February 25, 2015, 10:06:57 PM »

The pump filter bag is what I meant. The fuel filter is new about 6 months ago, but seems a little restricted when I try to blow through it.

Inge K. · « **Reply #108 on:** February 25, 2015, 10:33:59 PM »

First you need a new pre filter, but it could also be a idea to flush through the pump in both directions to be shure that its clean.
Have a look at this: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,5576.msg35083.html#msg35083

About the terminals through the tank bottom, you can inspect them visually, both inside and under the tank.
If you find them suspected on the inside you need to remove the float mechanism from the tank,
you then would need a new o-ring.

Scott_ · « **Reply #109 on:** February 25, 2015, 10:47:11 PM »

I had one of those pre-filters do the same thing. I was able to "repair" it with a sewing needle and thread and sealed it back up..... I considered the office stapler, but went the needle and thread route.

SeanK75 · « **Reply #110 on:** February 25, 2015, 10:53:58 PM »

They want 75$ just for that little filter bag! I might just get it to be safe. I can see the old one is deteriorating on both ends, it's the only thing that I think could be giving my pump and filter problems. The rest of the tank is clean as a whistle.

Inge, thanks for the link on the pump. I'll try that before I put everything back. It's a great idea. That way I can see how it functions and if it stutters at all.

By techron you just mean chevron gas with techron right?

Inge K. · « **Reply #111 on:** February 25, 2015, 11:08:18 PM »

Sounds to me that its only Techron that have been....don't know what's inside the bottles since we ain't
got that product on this side of the pond.....but I would guess it's safer to work with than fuel.

Less chance to go into orbit, if...............

Inge K. · « **Reply #112 on:** February 25, 2015, 11:21:11 PM »

Quote from: SeanK75 on February 25, 2015, 10:53:58 PM

They want 75$ just for that little filter bag!

Less than 10$ at Euromotorelectrics, non genuine, but Bosch is a well known brand, even if it have half the lifetime you save a lot..........buy two....and eventually other service part you need.

SeanK75 · « **Reply #113 on:** March 15, 2015, 05:20:44 PM »

Had a chance to look at my bike again today. I believe I've narrowed it down to a ground fault between the fuel pump and harness outside of the tank. I pulled the pump out and bypassed the tank Guage assembly, not sure what this part is called, and the pump worked. Upon inspection of guage assembly I found no visible problems? you mentioned the ground fault was common, is there anyway to fix it? Or am I better off to just replace the part? 185$

Inge K. · « **Reply #114 on:** March 15, 2015, 06:29:52 PM »

The ground connection is directly at the mounting plate...both inside and outside, so you should be able to
check it visually.
If necessery remove the unit from the tank....also check the wires between the unit (mounting plate)
and the connector, and the unit (mounting plate) and the fuel pump connectors have good connection.

Scott_ · « **Reply #115 on:** March 15, 2015, 06:38:10 PM »

I've known of (1 specifically) that had the ground path break inside the sealed portion where the tank wires pass thru from the outside to the inside of the fuel tank. He had intermittent fuel pump failure.
The only way he was able to cure it was to replace the float assy. He was able to find a good used one for reasonable.

Inge K. · « **Reply #116 on:** March 15, 2015, 06:41:28 PM »

The ground connection isn't going through the sealed portion, but directly on the mounting plate.

SeanK75 · « **Reply #117 on:** March 15, 2015, 06:44:39 PM »

I tested the wire from the mounting plate to the pump and it's good. I think the problem is inside the harness entering the mounting plate, which looks like a sealed unit. Seems like ill have to replace the float assembly.

SeanK75 · « **Reply #118 on:** March 15, 2015, 06:47:56 PM »

Where does the ground connect from outside the plate? All I can see is the wire gking into a white plastic connector directly through the plate. Also, the ground connection to the mounting Plate looks mildly corroded, but it looks like it's impossible to remove and clean it. Can't remember but I seem to remember is was riveted in place.

Inge K. · « **Reply #119 on:** March 15, 2015, 06:50:56 PM »

On the underside of the unit it's a plastic housing which you can remove and check the ground connection.
And resolder the connection....or change out the part of the wire which is broken....

SeanK75 · « **Reply #120 on:** March 15, 2015, 08:37:05 PM »

I'll have another look at the assembly. Now that we've narrowed the issues to the jumped 6 and 7 fuse and the ground fault I'm the float assembly, would either of those things cause the temp light to flicker? It only starTed doing that recently before the bike eventually stopped starting due to the ground fault.

rbm · « **Reply #121 on:** March 16, 2015, 01:40:32 AM »

The wires inside the tank are constantly immersed and the insulation hardens and cracks. The positive lead for the pump is strain-relieved with a tab to the fuel sender housing. The broken insulation can expose wires that can short to the housing. Remove the fuel level sender to inspect the unit. If it's just wires that look ratty, then replacing the wires is pretty straight forward and cheaper than a new unit.sender

Elipten · « **Reply #122 on:** March 16, 2015, 01:46:03 AM »

But replace with wire that can be submersed in fuel. Normal electrical wire insulation will deteriorate in fuel.

rbm · « **Reply #123 on:** March 16, 2015, 01:58:02 AM »

Wire with Polyurethane insulation, not normal PVA insulation. Polyurethane is resistant to gas and oil.

Inge K. · « **Reply #124 on:** March 16, 2015, 04:46:18 AM »

Quote from: SeanK75 on March 15, 2015, 08:37:05 PM

Now that we've narrowed the issues to the jumped 6 and 7 fuse and the ground fault I'm the float assembly, would either of those things cause the temp light to flicker?

Could be that the modded wiring have been causing it, as the power feed to the temp management relay PCB
is in the same circuit.....but can't say for shure....time will show.
But it might be a separate issue as well..........

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Author Topic: Temperature light flickering (Read 59136 times)