When I bought my K75RT the shift throw to change gears was over 4 inches. It was so bad I had to take my foot off the peg to upshift. These grub screws appear to have been installed without Loctite at the factory on at least some of these bikes(maybe all of them). It took my son and I approximately 7 hours start to finish to tighten the damn thing(including at least 1/2 hour fishing the screw out when I dropped it into the transmission. BMW put some obstacles in the way of easily getting an Allen wrench on that screw).
I expect your LT will take a bit longer, especially if you do the work by yourself. A good set of ball end Allen wrenches(Harbor Freight has a nice set), and a torque wrench are mandatory. A 30mm socket to tighten up the paralever, and a couple of 8mm bolts about 4 inches long with the heads cut off to support and guide the transmission when you remove and reinstall it. A floor jack and a saw horse will be needed to get the bike off the centerstand.
Be sure to degrease the heck out of the shift fork and the screw with brake cleaner before you put the screw back in. You don't ever want to do that job again on this bike.
Of course, while you're in there you want to take a few extra minutes to lube the clutch and drive shaft splines along with the swing arm bearings. Check the brakes and install pads if they're needed. When you are done everything in the drive line from the clutch back will be serviced, inspected and ready for at least one season of riding.
I typed up my own step by step procedure from the Clymer book. Two pages in big print made it easier to follow than the book(and kept the book clean, too). Saved hunting for torque specs every time I put a bolt in.
It's been 7 months and 8500 miles since I did the job now and the transmission still shifts as smoothly and positively as the day I fixed it.
