What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ?

[Filmcamera]

Great, thanks!  :riding:

[Martin]

Had a busy day up at 0200 am took the Honourable Minister for Finance and Recreation to the airport. First I repainted my fuel cooler and as soon as the shops opened went and picked up my new battery Dynavolt. Fitted the new battery with a bit of stuffing round with the connections 90 deg out. Put the tank back on and went to fire it up and now had a bad 4 pin connector. It rarely plays up it has only happened a couple of times previously. I ran out of DeoxIT a couple of years ago, so I bit the bullet and went down to Jaycar and bought the new DeoxIT two very small cans $30.00 Au and a 4pin waterproof connector $20.00 Au. I was going to change the connector if the DeoxIT didn't work, but it did. I've only used the one tin type the new one has gold protector in the second can. It fixed the problem so I will leave the connector for another time. The paint seems to be drying better this time, but I'll wait till morning before refitting it.
Regards Martin.

[Filmcamera]

New rear disc all installed and looking good.  I am going to take it for a shakedown ride with my wife tomorrow morning when we head out for breakfast to celebrate my birthday.


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Happy Holidays to all of you.

[Martin]

I went for a nice warm ride 29 C. After lavishing multiple presents on my Brick at great expense, new alternator brushes, new relay, new battery, new 4pin connector she is apparently happy with the said expensive gifts. She behaved faultlessly and even burbled with joy on the down hill runs. If the paint on my fuel cooler ever dries I will refit it, I've got it sitting in the sun at the moment, and she be even happier. So on the day before Christmas Izzy the Brick and I wish you all a very Merry Brickmas and a Happy Krew Year to you and yours.
Regards Martin and Izzy the Brick.

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Izzy relaxing under a Palm tree.

[Laitch]

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Merry Christmas back at ya, Laitch,  and to one and all!

[beemerphile]

You guys are reminding me why I moved from Penn Yann, NY to Georgia.  The end of this week I will be headed to Stockton, Alabama for the annual Last Ride of the Year - my 20th trip.  The temps will be into the low 30's but no ice on the roads.  Since my K11 is on the lift right now for a thorough going-over, the trip will go to the R12GS.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Enjoy the ride, Lee.  Winter is here with a vengeance.

15F right now with 20mph winds make for a -10F wind chill and about a foot of fresh snow since Saturday.  Looks like this December will be the first month since March of 2016 I haven't done at least 200 miles.  In fact, miles this month are 0.  Could have got out at the beginning, but was still sore from my accident and couldn't get my leg over the bike.

[MCRyder]

Installed a new battery in the RT today.  Not sure the age of the old battery when I bought it the bike a couple years ago, but the bike now starts with a lot more enthusiasm  :clap:

[gofargogo]

It’s been a busy first week of ownership, but today I finally got the final drive off and found very worn splines. Sigh.


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[The Mighty Gryphon]

It’s been a busy first week of ownership, but today I finally got the final drive off and found very worn splines.

That's too bad.  Splines are a crap shoot because no seller is going to let you pull the drive shaft and final drive to look at them.  You hope for the best, usually the condition of the rest of the bike is a good indication of what you will find.

Where are you located?  Are you looking at a couple months of winter.  If so, you could spend some time watching eBay for a final drive.  K75 and K100 models are interchangeable even if they have different drive ratios.  Even so, the effect on performance is negligible so I wouldn't worry about that. 

Here's one with what looks like good splines for $150 shipped.  And you get a spare speedo pickup with it.  You might have to swap your old disc.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-BMW-K75-FINAL-DRIVE-GEAR-DIFFERENTIAL/222705030148?fits=Make%3ABMW&hash=item33da411404:g:2z8AAOSwC-tZ~HnL

A drive shaft can be had for just under $200.  Another option is to buy the splined coupling from Motobins in the U.K. and have a machine shop rework your old shaft to have the new spline welded on.  The old shaft is cut down and then bored on a lathe to a press fit to the new splines which are then welded.  Not a terribly complicated job judging that they do the installation for U.K. customers for what looks like $60US.

https://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts.php?model=K%20Series&bikeref=K100     

     
Part No.55552REPLACEMENT SPLINE FOR 20 SPLINE SHAFTS.  ( SPLINE ONLY-THIS REQUIRES WELDING OR SEE 55553 )
£55.00 ex VAT
(£66.00 inc VAT)Qty 
                                                                                       

[gofargogo]

Where are you located?  Are you looking at a couple months of winter.  If so, you could spend some time watching eBay for a final drive.  K75 and K100 models are interchangeable even if they have different drive ratios.  Even so, the effect on performance is negligible so I wouldn't worry about that. 

A drive shaft can be had for just under $200.  Another option is to buy the splined coupling from Motobins in the U.K. and have a machine shop rework your old shaft to have the new spline welded on.  The old shaft is cut down and then bored on a lathe to a press fit to the new splines which are then welded.  Not a terribly complicated job judging that they do the installation for U.K. customers for what looks like $60US.

https://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts.php?model=K%20Series&bikeref=K100     

     
Part No.55552REPLACEMENT SPLINE FOR 20 SPLINE SHAFTS.  ( SPLINE ONLY-THIS REQUIRES WELDING OR SEE 55553 )
£55.00 ex VAT[/b]
(£66.00 inc VAT)Qty 
                                                                                       

Northern California, which has had amazing riding weather lately.

There’s a whole swing arm/fd drive shaft on eBay right now, but it blows up my current budget and they don’t actually show the splines in the FD.


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[The Mighty Gryphon]

Spend some time on eBay checking for dealers of K75 and K100 parts.  There are many in California.  Check with them for a shaft and final drive.  Check some of the machine shops in the area to see what the cost would be to install the Motobins splines. 

Have you gotten the engine running yet?  That would be a good thing to do along with all the other maintenance items while you save up for the parts you need for the drive splines.  It will also give you a chance to see if the rest of the bike needs additional work as well.  Worse comes to worse, you can part this one out to get cash for another better one.

It sucks to have to work on a "new" bike when you want to jump on it and ride, but sometimes you just have to spend some time getting it ready.  If you got it for a good price you could still do all the work and have a good machine for less than the market price. 

Have you contacted the seller about the splines?  Maybe you can return the bike, or work out a refund of some of your purchase price.  Show them the eBay listing for the final drive and shaft and see what they say. 

[Laitch]

It’s been a busy first week of ownership, but today I finally got the final drive off and found very worn splines. Sigh.

That's probably why it only cost you $500.

Believe what Gryph is telling you. You could still come out of this with a good bike for a bargain price.

[gofargogo]

That's probably why it only cost you $500.

Believe what Gryph is telling you. You could still come out of this with a good bike for a bargain price.

Oh yeah. I knew it was a gamble, and it was cheap enough that it was worth the risk, but I was hoping that I could dodge that bullet.

Also it looks like this week is going to have some amazing riding weather. So I’m mostly petulant about that.

It runs, and from what I can tell, it runs reasonably well. I’ve ridden it around my neighborhood and in town a little. I was hoping to finish up the “little” things and ride the snot out of it later this week.


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[TX brick]

Check with Hansen BMW in Oregon. They  have a service that will rebuild your FD splines and sell you an OEM driveshaft at a discount. I had mine done by Bruno in Canada, but he has suspended operations due to health issues.

[Laitch]

In addition to Ron's suggestion, Bombar's in North Carolina offers a variety of driveline service. Toward the end of this page , the company has priced out K75/100 final drive rebuilding at around $1000. The page is slow to start loading on my computer but it eventually jumps into view.

With patience and dedication, you still might be able to find reasonably good rear drive from a another bike but before you purchase one, you should probably post some clear photos of its input shaft splines and seal for a group consultation here.

The transmission input and output shaft splines should be checked now before spending any big money on the rear drive. Send photos.  :2thumbup:

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Here's a used shaft for $168 shipped.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/92-BMW-K75-K-75-RT-ABS-K75RT-DRIVE-SHAFT-X106/352246350242?hash=item520384c1a2:g:RBAAAOSweZJaTVf4

I have done business with this guy a few times in the past and have found his stuff is good quality and priced fairly.  You might ask him if he can supply some good photos of the splines if it makes you feel better.

[gofargogo]

Thanks everyone. I’m going to start a project thread a little later today, and get some better photos of the spline. I was assuming you need to buy a spline and fd together so they have matching wear patterns.


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[The Mighty Gryphon]

No need to take more photos, your splines are toast.  No need to match wear patterns, look for the best splines you can find.  Look for nice wide flat areas on the top of the splines.  The final drive I linked to on eBay has nice looking splines.  That's what you want to see.

[Supershooter]

Two questions from the slow kid, what is this? Pic one. I was messing around with a multimeter and stuck the positive lead into the red wire fitting on the alternator and placed the negative lead to the frame, did I do damage to the bike when I did that?


Supershooter

[enb54]

Two questions from the slow kid, what is this? Pic one. I was messing around with a multimeter and stuck the positive lead into the red wire fitting on the alternator and placed the negative lead to the frame, did I do damage to the bike when I did that?

Pic 1 I don't know but someone else likely will.

Pic 2 if your multimeter was on "Volts" then likely nothing, if on "Amps" you may have blown the multimeter, if on "Ohms" then you may have blown the multimeter. Alternators are pretty robust, the heavy red lead goes to the + connection on the battery, so if your multimeter was set for "Ohms" or "Amps" then you likely created a low resistance path to ground (the - connection) and perhaps damaged your meter but not the alternator. If the multimeter was set to "DC Volts" then you would have read battery voltage to ground, no damage to multimeter or alternator. Is there a problem with your machine or were you just "testing"?

[Laitch]

. . . what is this? Pic one.

I'm guessing it's a valve in the hose that on the '85 K100 bikes routed fuel vapor between the crankcase and a port located toward the front of the tank. I've read here that both the tank side and the crankcase side are often capped off because the system apparently was ineffective and problematic. My K75 has a vent port at the rear of its tank. The hose is routed to emerge behind the right foot peg plate. It has one of those valves.

Here's an extract from MAX BMW's fiche.

[Supershooter]

Pic 2 if your multimeter was on "Volts" then likely nothing, if on "Amps" you may have blown the multimeter, if on "Ohms" then you may have blown the multimeter. Alternators are pretty robust, the heavy red lead goes to the + connection on the battery, so if your multimeter was set for "Ohms" or "Amps" then you likely created a low resistance path to ground (the - connection) and perhaps damaged your meter but not the alternator. If the multimeter was set to "DC Volts" then you would have read battery voltage to ground, no damage to multimeter or alternator. Is there a problem with your machine or were you just "testing"?
[/quote]

enb54,
I was having issues with the battery staying charged, so I was testing the battery for V when at idle and when the motor rpm was increased to 3000. No difference was seen, so I concluded that the alternator wasn't charging. So at that point for some unknown reason I decided to insert the red lead onto the red wire coming out of the connector attached to the alternator and place the negative lead to the bikes frame. Nothing came up on the alternator. I them turned the bike off, and since then the bike won't start. I'm stumped.

Supershooter

[Supershooter]

Laitch,

I'm guessing it's a valve in the hose that on the '85 K100 bikes routed fuel vapor between the crankcase and a port located toward the front of the tank. I've read here that both the tank side and the crankcase side are often capped off because the system apparently was ineffective and problematic. My K75 has a vent port at the rear of its tank. The hose is routed to emerge behind the right foot peg plate. It has one of those valves.

I'll have to look a little closer, this one was under the air box and I haven't found where its connected, my tank is laying on the bench and I didn't disconnect that line to remove it. I do have and over flow hose that was snaked through the bike and came out by the right foot peg but I mistakenly pulled it out and not sure how to get back where it came from

Dustin