Hi Mlytle
True, when the bars are turned up wrong (like how I myself first had them set at a guessed-at angle for my first test ride after the riser install), they were feeling far away and cockeyed in relation to the seat/pegs. Not great. Then I angled them down a bit, test rode it, and was very surprised at the improvement - amazing how different they felt, falling naturally to hand. I went through the trouble of angling them down once more, barely a degree or three, and now I'm real happy I bothered to do it (remember, you'll need to loosen the underside allens and properly re-adjust the lever/mirror/signal assembly each time). *I should add I'm 6'2", which may be why it works fantastic for me.
Another factor are my suspension settings of a Progressive base model (4015) shock set on the highest preload for my 225 lbs to help steering, as well as the front tubes raised 4mm (to drop the front the same amount) which in combination nicely quickens the steering without reducing stability... so far. Those suspension changes will of course angle a rider down and forward slightly compared to stock.
Hi Dude, like your style (sick of hearing that yet?)
What happens when you install the risers is the front/top cover (with the ignition and switches) goes up as well, so the underside brackets riveted to the rubber above, and screwed to the casting below, no longer reach. All I did, for now anyway, was zip-tie each side through the now-empty braket hole through handy slots in the lower casting. It's holding it more than snug enough for my needs. The other cover, on the backside, can still be installed as before, and tucks under just enough not to notice.
Re the gearing, yeah, I know the engine can take it, but my friend, why dish it out? My VFR 750 could also take it, but it would be like riding the Interstate on that bike in 4th gear. Why would we do that? No matter what I've read on all these forums, all a K75 is doing at those higher rpm's is burning more gas (I've seen in my multi-tank-by-tank test, an improvement of nearly ten percent better mileage, and not just going by the odometer, but actual city to city distances). Oh and you're also just breaking down your K75's oil's viscosity faster for nothing. I'm telling you with all honestly, this bike finally felt like grown up bike after the change, no longer so busy and straining. And remember, it's still right at its torque peak at highway rpm, perfect for passing. It's not lugging at all and it feels great.
And it's not just on the highway where it's better - right after the change, which raises all gears proportionally, I was not thinking, "Hey, my bike is now sluggish." I was instead thinking, "Yikes, first gear (and second, and third...) was so short before, the way it got used up in a blink was silly for this type of bike." I mean, if one wants to imagine his K75 is a performance bike, then yeah, technically you will accelerate a smidge faster with the shorter stock gearing and maybe you can just keep ahead of your girlfriend's Vespa 300 GTS.
I believe that people have made negative comments regarding this gearing change have either never tried it, or have tried it on a K75 that may not be in its best state of tune. Our lovable, but old school K75s are weak enough already without riding them around without the throttles synched, the valves adjusted, the injectors cleaned etc. If you're hesitant about the 2.81 final drive, hedge with the 2.91 and enjoy!
Hi Kryder
I'm happy you like your K75 but I always believe there's room for improvement - some improvements are worth the effort, some are too expensive or time consuming to be worth it. I'm happy with the changes I've made, but I'm happier if you like your bike as is. By the way, enjoy your 1100!
Topic: What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ? (Read 2998731 times)