Author Topic: What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ? (Read 2998846 times)

johnny · « **Reply #1300 on:** January 05, 2015, 06:29:00 PM »

greetings...

stock bulb or other...

j o

koapono · « **Reply #1301 on:** January 06, 2015, 05:58:23 AM »

JO,

right now i am using the OSRAM you recommended on a previous post.
won't be doing much night riding for a while as it's a tad chilly here so won't really get to appreciate the upgrade.
however at night, in the garage i am quite pleased with the crisp, bright light. i wish i had taken a before/after picture. i am sure that just adding the 12 gauge wire to bulb would have had a significant impact.

detbmw · « **Reply #1302 on:** January 10, 2015, 09:23:08 PM »

Replaced the standard tail light/brake light 1157 bulb with a 2357. The 2357 is rated at 40 lumens, 25% brighter than the 1157 at 32 lumens. The life of the 2357 brake light is 500 hours while the 1157 is rated at 2,000.

It's hard to see the difference looking at the light, but if the science says it's brighter, I think it's worth it.

I found articles on the 2357 bulb here:

http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/taillite.shtml

http://bob_skelly.home.comcast.net/~bob_skelly/TailLights/taillight_mods02.html

Chaos · « **Reply #1303 on:** January 11, 2015, 10:57:19 AM »

Quote from: detbmw on January 10, 2015, 09:23:08 PM

It's hard to see the difference looking at the light, but if the science says it's brighter, I think it's worth it.

http://bob_skelly.home.comcast.net/~bob_skelly/TailLights/taillight_mods02.html

That's a very Democratic, left leaning statement, expecially from a Texan! :eek::yow (sorry, please return to non-political mode) :riding:

detbmw · « **Reply #1304 on:** January 11, 2015, 08:58:07 PM »

Quote from: Chaos on January 11, 2015, 10:57:19 AM

Quote from: detbmw on January 10, 2015, 09:23:08 PM

It's hard to see the difference looking at the light, but if the science says it's brighter, I think it's worth it.

http://bob_skelly.home.comcast.net/~bob_skelly/TailLights/taillight_mods02.html

That's a very Democratic, left leaning statement, expecially from a Texan! :eek::yow (sorry, please return to non-political mode) :riding:

I don't want to go all political either, at least not here. I'll take your remark as a compliment.

I'm amazed some days at what people around here think and say (evolution is only a theory, we are living in the end times, etc.).

TimTyler · « **Reply #1305 on:** January 23, 2015, 05:54:09 PM »

Valve adjustment.

Installed fresh rubber washers on the cover screws. Permatex UltraBlack sealant on the half-moons and front seams near the chain.

This is the 3rd adjustment I've made to the K75. The last was 16k miles ago. Cylinders 1 & 2 are down to 2.05 shims so I've only got another 25k miles at most before a new valve job or engine is required. Had to order 5 fresh shims from the dealer since their Service Dept box-o-shims is nearly empty of the thin K shims.

Old Intake      2.60 | 2.60 | 2.60
New Intake      2.55 | 2.55 | 2.55

Old Exhaust      2.15 | 2.20 | 2.25
New Exhaust   2.05 | 2.05 | 2.15

gladstone · « **Reply #1306 on:** January 24, 2015, 06:16:20 PM »

Another valve adjustment. Only exhaust and only one new shim needed. A lot of fun and far easier than expected. No bmw special tools used but I did hold down the tensioner with a screw driver.

johnny · « **Reply #1307 on:** January 24, 2015, 08:39:07 PM »

greetings...

i gotts zip ties holding my engine together too... actually they are holding most everything together...

j o

bignews1and2 · « **Reply #1308 on:** January 26, 2015, 01:52:21 PM »

Changed the tires, spark plugs and oil when I bought her in June of 2014. Found a K&N Air filter so I left that in.
After putting 7k miles on her since then, I did the following on my newly acquired 1985 K100 RT with the help of a local BMW club member. http://bmwmcnj.com/
I'm a novice when it comes to wrenching on bikes.

We changed:

1. Transmission oil - Mobil 1 104361 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube
2. Final drive oil - Mobil 1 104361 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube
3. Fork oil - Maxima 5wt mixed with Belray 5wt 60/40%
4. Brake Fluid - NAPA DOT4 fluid. Front and back.
5. Fuel filter - BMW R Oilhead & K; 16 14 2 325 859 / Mann MWK44

Took apart, checked and cleaned front brake pads. Lubed o ring on speedo sensor.

Snowman · « **Reply #1309 on:** January 30, 2015, 04:07:06 PM »

Put a taller screen (+2") on the 11LT, found a C-Bailey on flea bay in good shape. Also fixed the power windshield mechanism, totally gummed up with dirt and old lube. I took it all apart, cleaned it up, lubed and it now works great. When I purchased the bike this was all in a box and the screen had been fixed to the base with nuts and bolts(!). The previous owner said the electric motor was bad, mmmmm Nope. :neener:

Anyways, ordering all the filters and crush washers for a lube fest in a few weeks.

gazman · « **Reply #1310 on:** January 31, 2015, 02:22:44 AM »

sync,d my throttle bodies. No more bar buzz (well a lot less anyways) Pulled the screen apart and cleaned all the crap out only to find the brass? cog is stripped. cables move freely motor works fine but no cog no go.its not available as a separate piece here in oz and they want AU$400 for the motor (onlyway to buy the cog) haha. So if anyone,s got a cog they would part with and post I,d gladly pay

BeemerDrew · « **Reply #1311 on:** January 31, 2015, 08:48:12 AM »

Quite a busy day with my K1100 LT. Just bought a Garmin Zumo 590 and needed to install it on the bike - also on my to do list was remove a couple of light that a previous owner had installed which were hanging down from the flat piece under the headlight and above the front wheel. They don't work properly and I think it was due to a dodgy switch. Anyway, got the knee pieces and storage boxes out with no dramas. Whilst I was taking out the plastic piece that goes above the speedo and tacho - the one with the switches on. I accidentally broke one of the side bits holding the interior light in. I know on old cars and bikes the plastic gets brittle and you have to be more careful, but it looks like I wasn't careful enough.

Removing the 2 lights was easy enough - just unbolted them from the fairing and then chase the wiring through to see where it goes. Two of the wires had round electrical clips on the end and were bolted to the RHS horn - not too sure why. One was an each and another went up under the tank and was traced to a piggy-back electrical connector behind the RHS side cover where it was spliced onto another wire. I did'nt bother to check what the lights were wired up to but thought that wiring it to the horn was dodgy - it may have been the earth, but 3 earths? Amazing what you find when you start pulling it to bits.

After sitting on the bike with the Garmin and the Ram mount I decided to use the Ram mount with with the 2 holes and attach it to the dash top on the LHS so that with the connecting bit it would fill in the area near the speaker. There was already 2 holes drilled there where something had been attached from its days as a Police bike. Just enlarged the holes and bolted the Ram mount there - all good so far. I ended up putting a bit of glue on the interior light and sticking it in until I get a replacement. Screwed the dash top back in and decided to see how the Ram mount works with the rest of the GPS unit. Couldn't find the connector bit that goes between the two balls :dunno2: Pulled half the garage apart trying to find it but no luck.

Looks like I will have to go out and buy another one, then I can wire in the GPS unit to the battery.

Stay tuned!

Cheers
Andrew

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #1312 on:** January 31, 2015, 12:40:15 PM »

Just finished reassembling the '92 K100RS I bought last fall. New brake lines, tires, LED driving lights, K1100RS lower fairing, brake pads, fan switch, fuel lines, rebuilt tragkorbs, paint, and a complete baseline service. Now I just need some warmer weather.

Snowman · « **Reply #1313 on:** January 31, 2015, 12:58:04 PM »

Nice looking bike! Great job. :clap: Though I am partial to the color choice . . . . .

F14CRAZY · « **Reply #1314 on:** January 31, 2015, 08:04:02 PM »

Well yesterday (sorry it wasn't today) I sent me Progressive 412 rear shock to be rebuilt by Progressive. Fit fine in a medium USPS Priority flat rate box. Will post back with what happens next.

kris · « **Reply #1315 on:** January 31, 2015, 09:49:36 PM »

Today was the start of the meet'n greet with Heinz (my '86 K100RT - 61k miles- newly acquired). Lower fairings off, gas tank and seat off, bags off, windscreen off. Had to drop the oil pan to get the damn oil filter off. Took everything I had with a pinch-type oil filter wrench. Not sure it's ever been off! The gasket was bone-dry. The oil looked like bunker B. The gas tank got the major clean - much needed. Chris Harris said to be sure to clean behind the fuel pump when pulling the fuel filter also...snapped the damn tip off the fuel pump whilst removing the fuel line. Yikes. The gas filter is dated 1986! Who needs new filters?? I'm guessing the air filter is same. I pulled it and it actually looks pretty good....plenty of light coming through. Coolant change will be next...tranny and final drive oil also. I'll need fork seals, too. I really appreciate what I'm seeing in terms of quality parts and manufacturing. They put in some good stuff! Tires and battery, too. All pooched - bike is 28 years old, after all.

My 2004 Kawi Concours sits in pristine condition (under a cover) beside the Beemer. That U-Haul trip from Trenton to Hamilton in a snow storm left her pretty salty. Bike was pretty dusty already.

Looks like Heinz spent some time State-side, too. I think the PO did some tech work in North Carolina.

I'll post further as things progress.

kris · « **Reply #1316 on:** January 31, 2015, 11:04:56 PM »

This is up-to-the minute. Beautiful even stripped down!! What a piece of work.

billday · « **Reply #1317 on:** February 01, 2015, 09:22:02 AM »

Quote from: kris on January 31, 2015, 09:49:36 PM

Coolant change will be next...tranny and final drive oil also.

Maybe you already figured this out.... but don't put in the new transmission and FD oil until you've pulled the transmission and lubed all the splines. There's a fine how-to in the Lieberry, tells you everything you need to know about it.

Have fun!

technostructural · « **Reply #1318 on:** February 01, 2015, 09:49:44 AM »

New to me '89 K75 that had been sitting for a couple of years:

I drained all (or most) of the nasty fuel out of the tank, changed the oil & filter, and gave her a second wipe-down.

I was lucky enough to find a bag of goodies in the trunk, including CO2 cartridges? Can't think of why they'd be in there.

Coolant and brake fluid are next!

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #1319 on:** February 01, 2015, 10:08:03 AM »

Kris, I would suggest getting a can of DeoxIT D5 and a tube of dielectric grease and then going through all the electrical connectors, every one of them including the bulb sockets. A bike that has been sitting as long as yours appears to have will have a fair amount of oxidation in the wiring that will give you fits when you get to making it run.

Additionally, I would clean the ground connections on the frame. There is one near the ignition coils and another on the frame top tube under the tank with a cluster of brown wires screwed to it. Get everything shiny with a coat of dielectric grease. Get it done now and you can forget about it when you're getting down to the short strokes.

These are jobs that most people are inclined to skip because they don't have the visual effect of getting anything done. Do them now before you are tempted to skip them when things really start to come together. With the bike stripped down most of the stuff you need to reach will be easily accessible.

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #1320 on:** February 01, 2015, 10:14:53 AM »

CO2 cartridges are part of the tire repair kit for inflating the repaired tire on the side of the road. There should be an inflater that uses them as part of your tools.

technostructural · « **Reply #1321 on:** February 01, 2015, 10:17:06 AM »

Quote from: The Mighty Gryphon on February 01, 2015, 10:14:53 AM

CO2 cartridges are part of the tire repair kit for inflating the repaired tire on the side of the road. There should be an inflater that uses them as part of your tools.

If this were Reddit, I would "upvote" your reply. Thanks! Learning things all the time here.

kris · « **Reply #1322 on:** February 01, 2015, 12:44:42 PM »

Thanks guys. In an effort to clean up the fuel sending unit (had her all apart) I ended up pooching the little sheet with the angel hair wiring on it!! I couldn't see them under all the crap! Was 99 per cent there!! Maddening. So here's my question...does anyone have a scrap unit hanging around? I will try to salvage the unit by replacing that little piece (don't know what it's called) and soldering it back in. It's tiny work - new territory to me - but in the interests of a challenge and keeping costs down I'd be willing to give it a go.

It's looking like spline lube is a ways down the road....

The gas tank is looking fine, however!

kris · « **Reply #1323 on:** February 05, 2015, 11:01:30 PM »

Well, I damn near hugged Heinz when I yanked the final drive and saw what I saw. The photos tell the story. Let's hope the balance of the drive splines look as good. And then a bit of a surprise...the rotor video I saw on Chris Harris' site had two flush hex bolts holding the rotor on. Undo those and you can replace the disc. Then I see mine and it's nothing but rivets. Does anyone know if this is difficult to replace? (in the event I need to).

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #1324 on:** February 06, 2015, 08:12:04 PM »

Under the spacer that is held on by the four wheel bolts in the photo you will find two flat head screws. If they are like mine they are held in with that friggin' red LocTite and will need to be heated to break them loose.

News:

Author Topic: What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ? (Read 2998846 times)