What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ?

[Zipster]

Couldn't get my ABS to recognise my rear sensor so I've put black tape over the lights!! It's a temporary fix!

I also received the front middle stainless steel flexible brake line this morning that I had ordered on Sunday from Motobins (great service for UK brick owners) after discovering a crack in my OEM rubber one.   Front brake system drained of fluid, new hose fitted and system bled ready for the road. Test run done and brakes are great (apart from no ABS).

Ready for a tour of Scotland next week :-)

[mystic red]

Crash, is that a Russel she's sportin'?

[Turkus]

Crash, is that a Russel she's sportin'?

Yep...and you'll spill blood trying to get him go with anything else   :yes

[Glacial]

Couldn't get my ABS to recognise my rear sensor so I've put black tape over the lights!! It's a temporary fix!

I also received the front middle stainless steel flexible brake line this morning that I had ordered on Sunday from Motobins (great service for UK brick owners) after discovering a crack in my OEM rubber one.   Front brake system drained of fluid, new hose fitted and system bled ready for the road. Test run done and brakes are great (apart from no ABS).

Ready for a tour of Scotland next week :-)

Take an anti-midge head net with you for stops, the little b******ds are bad this year.

[K75RT Keith]

Crash, is that a Russel she's sportin'?

Best darn seat I've ever owned is a Russel.  Had a Corbin and after 3000 miles I hated so much I put the original seat back on cause it was less painful.

[Zipster]

Take an anti-midge head net with you for stops, the little b******ds are bad this year.

Thanks for the heads up, so to speak!! :-)

[F14CRAZY]

I bought a rear Dunlop D404 from a local non-BMW dealer (and had them mount/balance it). Hopefully it'll give 10-12k of slab usage

[Bokobob]

Had the dealer pull the tranny and on back adn lube the splines at clutch and final drive...shifts much better, upshift and downshift....used Honda Moly 60...I inspected the splines between clutch and tranny and they were in  very good shape with a little bit of  amount of wear on the female part of the splines at clutch....Did not see the splines at the rear of bike...Also had them install new throttle cable (old one was sticking) and new return gas line....

Dealer showed me a slight gas leak at front left seam of gas tank and also indicated the brake master cylinder was shot and leaky....I'll attend to those after some research, especially on the gas tank issue....(dealer suggests new tank).

Glad to have this out of the way at least to the point it is...I also will have valves adjusted but they did not have a new gasket so could not do that today...

[Glacial]

My neighbour, who runs a small engineering shop, had done a great job on getting out old, broken bolts and fitting inserts in the head for the inlet manifolds. Finally got the bike back together last night and she started right up, no problems.  A few rattles before the oil got pumped to everywhere it needed to be but then settled down to smooth and quiet.  Too exhausted to test ride last night so went out first thing this morning before the traffic build-up.

Lovely - smooth, no back fires or hesitations, 100@7000 very relaxed.   :yes  :riding: :yes  :riding:

Only issue is that I can't get the idle down below 1200, need to do some more reading and head-scratching on that one.

One happy Motobricker!

[TimTyler]

... I can't get the idle down below 1200, need to do some more reading and head-scratching on that one.

Throttle body balance.

[rbm]

Only issue is that I can't get the idle down below 1200, need to do some more reading and head-scratching on that one.

Once TB sync is achieved as recommended by Tim, set idle speed by incrementally and equally turning the brass coloured air bypass screws clockwise (to lower) or counterclockwise (to raise) by 1/4 or 1/2 turn.  Measure the effect on idle after each adjustment.

[Glacial]

Thanks for the TB balance/adjust advice, guys.

[Oma Aika]

A couple of weeks ago my K75 was leaking oil - oilpump/waterpump/oil pressure censor. They fixed it at the service - but the originals seals didn't quite fit so they had to do some new sleeves/ferrules/shells (<-- I don't know the right word in English). And the censor is the the same as in BMW 318I car? Well, anyway now it's not leaking anymore.


http://www.vanhamoto.net/2014/06/wagnerin-nuha-eli-bmw-k75-vuosi-oljya.html

[mjydrafter]

I've been cleaning stuff and came across the big box with my radiator cowling in it.  The PO of my brick had installed a new radiator because the original fan shit the bed and drilled the original radiator. :musicboohoo:

He got a new radiator, but it's the bigger radiator for the K's.  So the radiator cowling/shroud never fit correctly.  He had started trying to get it to fit, but didn't go very far.  I have always thought it looked okay, but kind of ratty.  So I set about to making it work.

I got the cowl on with a bit of work and a couple of standoff tubes 3/4" at the top and ~2.125" at the bottom.  BUt what about that black strip where the pieces "didn't" come together.



My first try to close the gap, was okay, but the sheet metal I used was too flimsy and I didn't think it would weld very well.  So I remade the piece and welded it up.  Threw on a coat of white hammerite and here's how it looks now.



I won't win any concourses, but my brick is a rider not a show bike. :yes

Here are a couple of pics of the piece I made up:

[K75RT Keith]

Installed a Kisan signal minder, Johnny Blanket and headlight relay

[richarddacat]

I've been cleaning stuff and came across the big box with my radiator cowling in it.  The PO of my brick had installed a new radiator because the original fan shit the bed and drilled the original radiator. :musicboohoo:

He got a new radiator, but it's the bigger radiator for the K's.  So the radiator cowling/shroud never fit correctly.  He had started trying to get it to fit, but didn't go very far.  I have always thought it looked okay, but kind of ratty.  So I set about to making it work.

I got the cowl on with a bit of work and a couple of standoff tubes 3/4" at the top and ~2.125" at the bottom.  BUt what about that black strip where the pieces "didn't" come together.



My first try to close the gap, was okay, but the sheet metal I used was too flimsy and I didn't think it would weld very well.  So I remade the piece and welded it up.  Threw on a coat of white hammerite and here's how it looks now.

I won't win any concourses, but my brick is a rider not a show bike. :yes

Looks good from here  :clap: Whose little "C" fairing is that?

Here's what I did in about a days time.

Removed a Rifle and installed the C fairing, removed RT bars and installed C bars with bar risers (I'd like to try and see the K1 bars in the future).

Installed a Works shock and a Corbin Gunfighter low seat (not real pleased with the appearance so it better feel good or it's coming off).
I might use some engineering ingenuity like you did with your radiator shroud and fab some custom side covers this winter.

Drained and refreshed - brake fluid, radiator fluid and after a good days ride the gear box and drive will be replaced. Fresh motor oil already circulating.

Polished and polished again.  :Rabia:

Ready for some seat time now.

[Grim]

Bought the parts almost a year ago to replace the throttle body bushings and o-rings. Finally got to it today.

 Found one was torn about 1/3 the way around. No actual holes in the other three but they didn't look very far from it. That explains my poor idle hopefully and I hope some of the bus I get around 3k. 

 I also found a bad crank case vent line. Local dealers are closed on Mondays, crossing my fingers that one has it in stock or can get it by Wednesday when my injectors will be back from getting flow tested and cleaned if needed. Have a local place that handles the injectors.
Vid showing the damage.

[Grim]

Got my injectors back at lunch so threw it together.  I believe I just cured the idle complaints on mine. I found a split throttle body boot (BMW calls it a bushing) on #3.  Mine did the "kerlunk" noise at idle pretty frequently hot or cold, did not matter. I just finished putting everything back together haven't even had a chance to take it for a proper test ride but already much improvements. It hasn't done the "kerthunk" noise once since I replaced the boots just idling it to make sure I didn't have any leaks. Normally it was pretty frequent.

Seems to fire off better as well. My idle was at 1150 ish before working on it and now it seems to have dropped back you 950-1000 where it's suppose to be and I have not made any adjustments.  I also found a couple other vacuum leaks (all before the throttle bodies so wouldn't have caused idle issues), bad fuel lines and a bad crank case breather hose. 

List of parts used:
8 clamp from Grainger  (1) 5czd8
36 in of high pressure fuel injection hose
1 crank case vent hose 111 151 461 835
4 ORings for throttle pedestals 116 114 651 69
4 bushing (boot) 116 114 617 39
Vid of what I found:



EDIT:

Got in a decent ride today GREATLY improved. I wish I had done this a year ago. This about cured a decel back fire I was getting. Much smother take off. Even feels better at steady cruise.  This needs to be stressed as a major thing to look for. .

[mjydrafter]

Looks good from here  :clap: Whose little "C" fairing is that?

I think it's off an BMW R80st.  The bike was wrecked at one point, and I assume this was available. 

[richarddacat]

Looks good from here  :clap: Whose little "C" fairing is that?

I think it's off an BMW R80st.  The bike was wrecked at one point, and I assume this was available.

Almost looks like a modified R65LS fairing.

[F14CRAZY]

Left front LED bulb on the Pichler isn't working and the socket is getting power. Will have to figure out what # this bulb is supposed to be.

Also took my cluster off again and replaced my odometer knob that fell out (replacement obtained from another bricker on the board). Also dialed in the speedometer and it's like perfect now. They're like 8 mph fast from the factory, then I made it 5 mph slow a while back using Drake's instructions, but now it's 0.5 mph off if anything according to GPS.

[johnny]

greetings f14crazy...

do you have oem 1156 sockets or run n lites 1157 sockets...

do you have an oem flasher relay or a kisan signalminder... 

does the right front led work in the left socket... does the left front led bulb work in the right socket...

does 1156 or 1157 bulb work in both...

j o

[F14CRAZY]

I googled 1156 and that's the bulb/socket type I've got. LED bulb from the left (bad) does not work in the right socket, and the bulb from the right works in the left socket fine, so it's got to be the bulb.

Pretty sure I've got signalminders...I mean Drake owned this thing come on

[F14CRAZY]

greetings f14crazy...

do you have oem 1156 sockets or run n lites 1157 sockets...

do you have an oem flasher relay or a kisan signalminder... 

does the right front led work in the left socket... does the left front led bulb work in the right socket...

does 1156 or 1157 bulb work in both...

j o

http://classickbikes.com/ckb/1.my.k.bikes/09_k75c_pf/k75c_pf.htm

Signalminder for sure  :2thumbup:

[johnny]

i would try the known good bulb from the other side... if no go im thinking polarity... which shouldnt be the case with the signalminder... and shouldnt matter with an incandescent 1156... so i would try a known good 1156 next... if it goes its the polarity...

j o