What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ?

[branandfox]

Bike is put away for the winter on the account of a back tire blowout at low speed, which nothing and noone was injured during. This winter Im going to refit her with a back pirelli to follow the front as well as:
New corbin seat
New rotors and brake pads,
all the neccessary flushes and refils,
new sparkplugs
as well as these new awsome blinkers for the front, Link below!

Hopefully get: new rims( Not the Y's I have on now)
get the rims coated,
start collecting pieces of a K1100 front fairing to put toward fully fairing my baby and repainting her orange and black.


A while back I had a misshap with a mirror falling off into traffic, so as I hated the original bulky mirrors I installed some suzuki Katana Sport mirrors on the upper fairing at the beginning of the windshield lip. Makes the bike appear much skinnier and much sportier! an instant hit. the only problem is now I need new blinkers.

360signals.net

They have 360 degree LED's mounted behind BMW roundels! the perfect thing for my unique project bike! if anyone is looking for something different and unique for there K, I suggest picking some up!

[staffordworks]

I'll play catch up, got the bike in July, since then:

changed the oil (already in love)
topped off front brake fluid (need to do rear but funky wired on battery covers are hindering)
taped up shattered headlight lens (after the laid it down fun)
glued turn signal housing back to attachable
used a bulb off a 91 e300 benz tail light to replace turn bulb
used a screw off a broken seat hook to hold turn lens on (orig wiggled off on ride home from wreck)
unwired battery covers and went exploring, topped off coolant, found rear brake res but not able to get to it easily
NEED: left fork seal replacement, sounds very expensive wondering if fluid can be added in the mean time?

[Duc750]

You can top up the fork but just remember where the oil is going, down the leg and into the brake caliper. Fork seals are a pain in the neck job rather than expensive as such.

[staffordworks]

very cool, thanks!

[Duc750]

Also for your own sanity do both legs otherwise you can garuantee that within a week of putting it all back together the other one will start to leak!

[BexarWolf]

After suffering a left-bag-meltdown, I picked up a pair of Cortech bags today. Brand new, never installed for $65.  :eek:

I have an over-night trip departing tomorrow morning and need the extra storage and don't want to drop $300+ on just one bag so I'm going the 'cheap bastard' route for now.  :2thumbup:

[trophydan]

Fitted  a new set of Bridgstone BT45s to the K75 - first time I have fitted tubeless tyres myself, wasn't as bad as I was expecting!

[staffordworks]

rode it in heavy rain, ran like a champ (love this bike) but rode through some deep water, filled my boots up, bout a mile later lost power, sputtering, felt like across the board (lost just one cylinder on a honda nighthawk back in the day, still drove 10miles on 3, turned out to be a fouled plug) but today felt different, electrical short maybe? pulled over under gas station cover and let it run on choke fast for 2min til drip water was steaming, felt weak after that but running high-ish (like 4k instead of my usual bone-head 2k) rpm got me the last mile to work.

[jsb]

Found the source of the fuel smell on my K75, a little hole in the return line. Ordered more fuel line, new hose clamps, will replace all fuel on line on the that one.

Finally adjusted the clutch on the K75S, and now it feels great, shifting is much smoother. It was way out of adjustment. Funny, every bike I have gotten, the clutch has been way out of adjustment. Seems like no one ever does it right. Both of them are dead on BMW spec now.  :2thumbup:

[CRASH]

Was a busy weekend.  I already had planned SS Brake lines and flushing the brake and clutch systems.  Then due to a piece of asphalt skipping into the bottom of my bike, I removed the Remus exhaust and the giant dent it now has and put the stock pipe back on ... I hope that will also move the power band back to where a sport touring bike uses the power and not at the top end like a race bike.  Ordered new oils lines to replace the damaged ones, got an estimate to paint the new side fairing to match (now I just have to get it and take it in) removed the rear Ohlins shock for a rebuild, Added some more running lights on the back end of the bike, changed the oil.  Need a few parts to come in so I can get it back on the road - but $4300 in damage, insurance paid off $3700 after my deductible and I will have spent maybe $1000 and got  more goodies - just a bit of unscheduled down time.

[frankenduck]

I made some custom length stainless buttonheads for mounting my K75 exhaust heat shield. :2thumbup:

[argent brick]

I made some custom length stainless buttonheads for mounting my K75 exhaust heat shield. :2thumbup:

Are the stock ones on my bike stainless or chrome?

[frankenduck]

Most K75s came with a black heat shield and black mounting bolts.

However, BMW did make chrome heat shields and chrome mounting bolts.  From the parts catalog it looks like the chrome heat shield only came on some of the naked K75s and the chrome bolts only came on nakeds and Cs.

[argent brick]

That answers my question, thanks. I have the chrome heat shield and bolts. I did not want any chrome on my bike, but it has grown on me. How common is the chrome stuff?

[frankenduck]

That answers my question, thanks. I have the chrome heat shield and bolts. I did not want any chrome on my bike, but it has grown on me. How common is the chrome stuff?

Not very from what I've seen.

[WoahGold]

Winterized and put the brick into storage with my other two toys.
1947 Farmall B
1961 Chevy Biscayne

[jsb]

Winterized and put the brick into storage with my other two toys.

"Winterize"? What is this thing "winterize"?  :confused: I was out walking in shorts and a tshirt today! Down here, I have to "summerize"!  :yow

Seriously, was going to replace fuel hoses on the K75 today, but upon checking my beehives, I found that one colony had absconded. I spent the rest of the afternoon trying to figure out why.  :dunno

[billday]

Started in on my winter project, refurbing the fuel and air intake on my '85 K100.

Got as far as pulling the injectors and fuel rail. The injectors sure need a scrubbing, look at the layer of corrosion on numbers 1 and 2. Now I'm hoping I didn't push any of that stuff into the intake tract when I stuffed rags into the injector openings.

I have a question for anyone who's done this operation on the '85 vintage machine. Clymer's says the entire air box needs to be removed: box, filter, air flow sensor, the works. Is that really necessary, or can I get away with just disconnecting the large elbow-shaped hose that connects the top air filter housing to the air accumulator box?

Cheers,

Bill

[frankenduck]

My .02 if you're just replacing the fuel lines: (And how I do it myself) is to only remove the lower half of the airbox.  Since they can be a little tight and you have to do it through the hole, the two 6mm Allen cap heads that hold the bottom half of the airbox to the engine block can be a bit of a challenge but are doable(or undoable :hmm:) - and, in the end, easier than removing the entire airbox.

[billday]

Thanks Duck. I should have been more clear -- I'm doing the fuel lines but also the whole intake manifold rehab, new bushings etc. Is it possible to do all that while only removing the bottom half of the airbox?

[frankenduck]

Yes, that's what I'd do.  Only undo the big rubber hose from the plenum above the TBs.  If you pull it from the airbox it's a bitch to get it properly reseated on the MAF sensor output.

And if you're pulling the TBs to redo the boots under them (worthwhile on an 85 IMO) then you probably don't need to mess with the airbox at all.

The key is how the screw for the hose clamp to the plenum is positioned.  It may be necessary to pull the radiator to get to that if you can't get at it from above with as\ long screwdriver.  I'd pull the radiator before messing with the airbox.  But that's just my preference.

[CRASH]

Well, it is not all today, it has been on going since the asphalt chunk damage, but we are getting close. The guy I bought the side panel from is SLOW AS HELL shipping from Texas ... but it should be here Friday finally and I hope the shop can color match paint it next week. Rebuilt shock should be ready at Ted Porter's tomorrow so I can pick those up. The complete list:
•   Replace Damaged Belly Pan
•   Replace Damaged Side Panel (after color match painting)
•   Replaced Damaged Oil Cooler Lines
•   Replace Air Filter
•   Super Oil change - it was totally drained this time since the oil lines and oil cooler were removed too.
•   Reinstall Stock Exhaust (removed damaged Remus exhaust that moved my power band out of normal sport touring range and into track range)
•   Stainless Steel Brake Lines and ABS Flush
•   Flush Clutch System
•   Wired up some new rear lights in turn signals and on fender
•   Rebuild Rear Ohlins Shock - front Wilbers is fine since it was rebuilt recently under warranty for a bad seal.
•   Good cleaning and scrubbing of grudge and road salts - still in process
•   New RS mirrors so I can see more than my ultra Sexy Elbows.
•   Replace seriously worn out 9 year old Autocom (the unit works, but all the wires have been flexed a bunch and are splitting) Due in Friday.
•   Got a new Shoei Neotec Borealis Helmet
New tires will probably be in a couple of weeks, have about another 1,000 miles on these and my first weekend back on the road will solve that :D

[billday]

The key is how the screw for the hose clamp to the plenum is positioned.  It may be necessary to pull the radiator to get to that if you can't get at it from above with as\ long screwdriver.  I'd pull the radiator before messing with the airbox.  But that's just my preference.

I got the bottom half of the airbox out. The screws attaching it to the engine block were rusty but undoable.

As for the big hose from the airbox to the plenum, the screw on mine is at 12 o'clock, I loosened it with a tiny 7mm open-end wrench. But I ran out of time today before I could actually pull the throttle bodies. Yes I do plan to replace the rubber parts.

Thanks for the commentary, it's very helpful.

[frankenduck]

I split out the motorcycle lift tangent and put it
here.

[billday]

Throttle bodies out! Giving everything a good cleaning and getting together my  rubber goods shopping list.

PS Getting a big assist from this: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,624.0.html   Thanks, Mystic Red.