What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ?

[alabrew]

Went out Sunday morning to install a johnny blanket on the '85 to find a fuel leak. Well, was going to pull the tank anyway.
Doing a little search of fuel tank sealants and ran across Marine -Tex. Anyone used it to seal a tank?

[SDCR john]

Is it the tank itself that is leaking, or just a gasket or O ring.

If the tank, I recently used a JB Weld product, called Steel Stick. It is malleable, and take about 48-72 hours to fully cure.

It sealed a seam leak on a SR500 gas tank last summer, and it is holding fine today.

[BlitzenGruv]

After much head scratching and a few trips back inside to see how others did it, I got the front wheel off the K100RS. The 17" front wheel makes it a pain to get the calipers off. New tire will go on tomorrow.
I'm reading the post on changing brake pads. It specifies a minimum pad thickness of 1.5mm. Mine are thicker than that, but I might renew them anyway. Anybody know how thick new pads are?

[BlitzenGruv]

love to see your  Brit bikes!

Wotan the Trident. Same bore and stroke as our K bikes. Very fast in its day, the wail at full song is addictive.


Mr. Jim the Bonneville.


Zelda the BSA Lightning

[Soggz]

Wotan the Trident. Same bore and stroke as our K bikes. Very fast in its day, the wail at full song is addictive.


Mr. Jim the Bonneville.


Zelda the BSA Lightning

love the Triumph mate. What year is it? Always hankered after a ‘68, myself.

[BlitzenGruv]

Removed the front wheel yesterday. I figured I'd change the tire today and move to the rear wheel.
The old Roadtek came off without a hitch, but I can't for the life of me get the new one on. I don't know if it's the wheel or the tire, but the beads simply refuse to stay centered in the drop center of the rim.
I've been riding for over 45 years and always changed my own tires. This will be the first time I ever had to take a wheel to a shop.
At least I didn't puncture a tube.  LOL

[Laitch]

I don't know if it's the wheel or the tire, but the beads simply refuse to stay centered in the drop center of the rim.

It isn't the wheel. I used large zip-ties to compress a tire  that wouldn't drop into the rim channel. That allowed it to be pulled into the channel when prying the bead over the rim.

[BlitzenGruv]

Thanks
I'll try that, but if the tire won't go on after about 20 minutes I'm taking it to a pro.
I think my problem is the aspect ratio. All my other bikes use 90% tires, much easier to squeeze.

[Skunky]

Stripped cleaned and rebuilt the Starter. Starts like a dream now.  :riding:

[BlitzenGruv]

I found a guy a few miles outside of town. Mounted and balanced for $20. I'm not even gonna try to mount the rear tire.
I put the front wheel back on today. Actually not too difficult with the brake pads spread as far as possible.

[Soggz]

I found a guy a few miles outside of town. Mounted and balanced for $20. I'm not even gonna try to mount the rear tire.
I put the front wheel back on today. Actually not too difficult with the brake pads spread as far as possible.

Hi. A guy at Weymouth Motors in Frome, balances wheels, if you get stuck.

[Past-my-Prime]

As I was going down the road one day, suddenly (and tragically) my latch flew off my Tragkorb.

It wanted to be free!

So I replaced it with this.

But as I am a bit obsessive, I've found and ordered a proper replacement.

Bit by bit, my Rad will resume its former glory.

[herseyb]

Followed the 4v front master cylinder procedure: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,3197.msg19201.html#msg19201   

Seals on the plunger look good, but the boot  32722310756   is fucky along the bigger edge.  Any point in reassembling before the replacement arrives, or will it continue to leak?

[Chaos]

As I was going down the road one day, suddenly (and tragically) my latch flew off my Tragkorb.

It wanted to be free!

So I replaced it with this.

But as I am a bit obsessive, I've found and ordered a proper replacement.

Bit by bit, my Rad will resume its former glory.

I've got a couple of those on my tragkorbs and tail tragkorb.  Grown quite fond of them over the years.  It's almost embarrassing how many Home Depot parts I have on my K, but they seem to last longer than pieces for der faterland.

[Soggz]

I've got a couple of those on my tragkorbs and tail tragkorb.  Grown quite fond of them over the years.  It's almost embarrassing how many Home Depot parts I have on my K, but they seem to last longer than pieces for der faterland.

Thats because BMW made good engines and bad everything that’s bolted to it!
I can see why they weren’t popular compared to bikes of their time!

[Martin]

Mine has just celebrated it's 26th birthday. And it is the most reliable bike I've ever owned, to the point of being boring. I just maintain it as per specification. Most problems with the Brick can be put down to neglect they need to be used, poor maintenance and been left out in the weather.
Regards Martin.

[Soggz]

Mine has just celebrated it's 26th birthday. And it is the most reliable bike I've ever owned, to the point of being boring. I just maintain it as per specification. Most problems with the Brick can be put down to neglect they need to be used, poor maintenance and been left out in the weather.
Regards Martin.

Same as any other bike, with the being left outside in bad weather,really. But yes, maintainable is the key.

[Chri5]

With my brick coming up to its 34th birthday i desided to give the old girl a spit and polish. I just need to remember it wil be worth it. im 5 days graft in and i reckon another 10 to go

[DJEwen]

With my brick coming up to its 34th birthday i desided to give the old girl a spit and polish. I just need to remember it wil be worth it. im 5 days graft in and i reckon another 10 to go

Good effort!

[Soggz]

Nice one.

Yeah, so I bought my bike some of these, see how it comes together with the new, rear YSS shock.

[BlitzenGruv]

Got the rear tire put on yesterday. I almost gave up on greasing the rear splines when I found that I needed a 12mm hex socket to take it apart. Bought the socket today at Auto Zone.
That was certainly fun, loosening 80 lb-ft pivots without knocking the bike off the center stand. But, I got the drive apart. Those splines look good, and they now have way too much grease on them. Even more fun lining up the bearing to get the pivot back in.
All done, fresh oil in the final drive, new Metzelers on both wheels.

[Past-my-Prime]

Some neglected maintenance. Inspired by all these wrenchers and the fact that the nearest BMW dealer is 6 hours' drive away.

I started with some heavy reading:



I set out to do four things yesterday: Coolant flush / replace (has not been done in some years, I saw some brown scuzzy crud floating in the coolant reservoir, and lately the overtemp light is coming on, interestingly in tandem with the fan).

Also did:

Full removal and reinstallation of fairing on order to get to the thermostat which is a long process for me.

Brake fluid renew

Spark plug change

Oil & Filter change

Transmission fluid change

I guess that's five things.

First, re: the coolant.



Then refilling with 50% Prestone Heavy Duty / Long Life OAT coolant and 50% dionized water.

It took about a gallon (3.7 liters) including the overflow reservoir. Which is weird because the book says it should only take 2.9 liters. Maybe there is a bigger radiator or maybe I mis-measured)



After it was all nicely done, the bike, when warmed up, still gives me the overtemp warning light in tandem with the fan turning on. The temperature gauge, however, never goes much above the middle. Certainly never into the red.

So now I'll be starting a new thread: Temperature warning light 1989 K75 RT. See you there!

I'll post brake fluid replacement procedure as my next one on this as I found a very easy way to do it.

[johnny]

greetings...

some bricks gotts 2 core radiators and some gotts 3 core radiators...

j o

[Past-my-Prime]

Here's the easy way to renew brake fluid (yes, even with ABS!) and without needing an extra hand.

I have an oil changer that is useful for my boat in that it has a long plastic suction tube that goes into the bottom of the oilpan. It uses a shop vac to make the vacuum.

Awesomely, the plastic tube is the exact inside diameter as the brake bleeders on my bike!

1 Open your rear fluid reservoir. Suck out old brake fluid.
2: Refill with your favourite DOT 4 fluid
3: remove the dust cap from the right ABS controller, and put the vacuum hose on it. Turn on shop vac
4: crack open the bleeder, and watch the old scuzzy fluid escape, to be replaced by the new stuff you just poured into the reservior. Add more fluid as necessary - don't want to drain it dry or you'll have air bubbles in your line and possibly also in your ABS pump.
5: very gently pump the rear brake pedal, remembering that it should not ever be fully depressed to avoid ruining your master cylinder.
6: close the bleeder when you've flushed out the old fluid with new stuff. It will be more clear in the hose, just a few ounces is all it takes.
7: do the same thing on the bleeder at the caliper.

8: Repeat for the front brakes, but this has a much longer run so will take more.

This is what it looks like, draining at the front ABS pump:




9: Ride happily! Check brake function at low speed first. Brake feel is no different for me than before. ABS works both front and rear on my bike as I determined!!

[The Mighty Gryphon]

When you did your radiator flush, did you run a system cleaner with distilled water to descale the minerals in the system?  If any of the previous owners used well water in the system it can be full of scale.  Heck even city water in some places can be pretty hard as well.  I had to do one radiator twice to get all the hard water crap out.

Also, how do the spaces between the fins of the radiator look?  I would imagine that in your part of the world there could be a pretty heavy load of small flying life forms blocking the airflow.  I had to remove and soak my radiator overnight in vinegar to remove the bugs that were making my bike overheat. 

I wouldn't worry about temperature gauge readings vs. fan operation.  I have noticed that the gauges often read "low", probably because of poor electrical conductivity between the sensor and the engine as well as in the electrical connections in the harness that are getting on to 30+ years old.