Author Topic: What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ? (Read 2998872 times)

szabgab · « **Reply #3500 on:** January 10, 2019, 01:37:18 PM »

Quote from: Laitch on January 10, 2019, 08:26:18 AM

It does not include the spectrum of -15ºC and when it thickens if will be slow to recover fluidity when the temperature rises. If you checked the chart, check again. The green arrow shows the end of the 20w50 range. The red arrow shows -15ºC. You need to change oil grades in the winter to the recommendations of johnny or Chaos.

Laitch, Haynes shows a different story, as they suggest 10W40 and 10W50 oils are no good above 5 and 10 degrees centigrade respectively. That was the reason, I went with 20W50. Also we get -15C (or below) on rare occassions, so that was just the extreme point to mention, but anyway, you are right, this oil is just way to thick for my bike even at -2 or -3C

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #3501 on:** January 10, 2019, 01:47:18 PM »

Szabgab, my collection of manuals includes official BMW factory manuals, Chilton and Haynes. Of the bunch, Haynes is the last I use, and then, mostly, only for an additional photo of what I'm working on.

Laitch · « **Reply #3502 on:** January 10, 2019, 03:17:43 PM »

:computer-noworky:

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #3503 on:** January 10, 2019, 05:46:14 PM »

To offer the most concise answer based on numerous tales of woe.

"Do bears use Charmin'?"

Replace it ASAP. It has the best return on investment of any part you can buy for your brick.

Soggz · « **Reply #3504 on:** January 10, 2019, 05:49:30 PM »

Lol. I’m guessing that’s a big fat yes then! Where could I possibly get one? Or should I take it off and simply repair it with heat shrink electrical wire covering?

Soggz · « **Reply #3505 on:** January 10, 2019, 05:51:04 PM »

A bit like this, but smaller tubing...

Soggz · « **Reply #3506 on:** January 10, 2019, 05:52:27 PM »

This is on my CX500 carb to head pipe.

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #3507 on:** January 10, 2019, 05:58:06 PM »

P/N 11 15 1 460 480 VENT HOSE $15.87

HOLY CRAP!!! Those greedy motherf*ckers just raised the damn price on those things almost 65%.

szabgab · « **Reply #3508 on:** January 10, 2019, 06:02:24 PM »

I believe there was a discussion of replacing the damn thing with a silicone hose, as an ordinary vacuum hose would collapse as the bends are too severe... I think, you could try heat shrink it and later buy the correct item. That is what happened to me on numerous occasions and the money spent on alternatives were money down the drain...

szabgab · « **Reply #3509 on:** January 10, 2019, 06:08:34 PM »

Quote from: The Mighty Gryphon on January 10, 2019, 01:47:18 PM

Szabgab, my collection of manuals includes official BMW factory manuals, Chilton and Haynes. Of the bunch, Haynes is the last I use, and then, mostly, only for an additional photo of what I'm working on.

Oh well, you could be very well right on this. I use Haynes (although I have downloaded everything else available) because that was always the workshop book I have used in the past and I am familiar with the layout, typography, what not. Having said that, Clymers seems to be the more thorough book of the two, even if I can not make my head round imperial measurements...

szabgab · « **Reply #3510 on:** January 10, 2019, 06:17:15 PM »

Quote from: Laitch on January 10, 2019, 01:06:02 PM

For anyone caught up in the folklore of seals and synthetic oil's affect on them, read this description of their interaction written by someone with considerable experience in BMWs and the motorcycle industry in general. Read it and a later post by the same respondent.

Laitch, I think the guy just proved, that synthetic indeed can cause leaks. Not in a direct sense, as it is not going to dissolve the rubber but the guy, who always used mineral with no ill effects and puts in a synthetic oil that shows the weakness in the system could not care less, what caused what. All he can see is a leaking seal, that was not leaking before. Obviously there could be yet another theoretical discussion on how much longer the seals would have lasted if he would not have used synthetic...

Obviously after playing devil's advocate and all this discussion on synthetic or dino I went to the toyshop, and bought a quart of semi-synthetic 10W40... It is not a BMW Spiffytech $20/dl oil, but I am destined for hell anyway, so I might as well have gone with Total Classic (as that was on the shelf in the store for a good price) :)

szabgab · « **Reply #3511 on:** January 10, 2019, 06:26:13 PM »

Also more often than not once you start to see disintegrating rubber you will have to replace other perishables too. If you pay a visit to a BMW dealer, you might as well get a proper shopping list, so you won't have to go there again pretty soon.

One thing, that can be most certainly substituted though are external fuel lines. BMW charges ridiculous amounts for simple injector high pressure rated lines and there are no particularly hard bends in it either, so for the price of one piece you can replace every fuel line outside the tank.

szabgab · « **Reply #3512 on:** January 10, 2019, 06:30:17 PM »

Quote from: Laitch on January 10, 2019, 06:22:19 PM

Nonsense. Unless you're living in the seventies—and I think maybe you are—the post convincingly explains why synthetic oil won't effect our K-motos, and they are the concern of this forum.

Laitch, I live in a post-communistic country with a narcissistic despot at the helm. So in a sense I live in the 1600's :)

You don't have to reside in the seventies to see dried up seals. They go brittle just as the old-old ones used to get, as I'm pretty sure you have experienced a few times replacing them... After all if they would remain pliable, one would never have to replace them

szabgab · « **Reply #3513 on:** January 10, 2019, 06:42:32 PM »

Quote from: Laitch on January 10, 2019, 06:37:09 PM

I agree but your moto is from the mid-1980s.

The topic is K-motos and whether synthetic oil degrades their seals. The answer is no. Dirty oil can affect them. Lack of engine use can affect them.

Yes and no. I never said, it degrades the seals, but it could highlight a failing seal by leaking through it, or at least this is how I understand the guy's message in your link. It is all academical after that if the oil was the cause or the messenger :) Either way, even the willingness of leaking past old seals seems to be questionable as proven by the others, who have never had issues with synthetic, so now just find the time to ride the bike long enough to warm up the molasses in the crankcase and replacing it with this semi-synth, I have bought

szabgab · « **Reply #3514 on:** January 10, 2019, 06:46:48 PM »

Quote from: Chaos on January 10, 2019, 10:47:24 AM

Iron curtain was ineffective as a barrier and the damn things escaped all over the place. Few, however, actually are seen prowling the neighborhood due to lack of proper socialist oil.

Haha, socialist oil, especially CCCP oil... In times of austerity (that communism was for the masses for 70 years) you could never get proper stuff, so those Urals and Dneprs would probably happily chuff away on mostly anything slightly resembling engine oil :)))

szabgab · « **Reply #3515 on:** January 10, 2019, 06:57:48 PM »

Quote from: The Mighty Gryphon on January 10, 2019, 11:32:22 AM

While I'm sure there are purists who will disagree, I see no reason why lightly used oil couldn't be saved for a few months in a sealed container. Moisture and oxygen are probably the worst enemies of oil, and a tightly sealed jug will keep them out.

Thanks Gryphon. I am not a purist, but a tight-arse, so I might as well try to save the oil for the summer. After all it is another three-four months, till +20C sets in (hope never dies)

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #3516 on:** January 10, 2019, 11:02:53 PM »

Quote from: szabgab on January 10, 2019, 06:57:48 PM

Thanks Gryphon. I am not a purist, but a tight-arse, so I might as well try to save the oil for the summer. After all it is another three-four months, till +20C sets in (hope never dies)

My attitude exactly. If indeed your oil only has 10 hours on it it should be fine as long as you install it with a new filter. Most oil change intervals are based on 200+ hours of run time, 10 is almost nothing. Oxidation and additive depletion are what kills oil. What difference is there in oil that sits idle in the sump for four months vs. oil that sits idle in a sealed jug for four months?

enb54 · « **Reply #3517 on:** January 12, 2019, 12:23:38 PM »

I also use synthetic oil (Castrol Syntec 5-30) in my 1991 K75, have never experienced any problems but do not operate the machine in the winter. Have never seen a motorcycle of any kind running here in a normal winter but myself and a few friends about 2002 went riding in a very warm late March (once only!). I also must be living in a special Hell, but there is no BMW dealer here and I'm not going to Calgary or Edmonton just for oil...

parabrick · « **Reply #3518 on:** January 16, 2019, 10:15:23 PM »

unable to figure out how to change the OEM bulb for my temp gauge, I decided to red neck it. Pulled the glove boxes and side plastics holding the fuel gauge and temp gauge and opened up the protective coverings to reveal the innards. Having sourced some micro green LEDs from Amazon, ( like $10 for 10 with shipping), i then used a electrical tester to determine the stock pos and neg leads. (grey pos and brown neg. shocking eh?) I then took 2 of the LEDs and wired them together with a ring terminal for the neg lead and jumper for the positive. Hooking them to power gave me what seemed to be sufficient output so I inserted them into the existing 2 holes in the backs of the respective gauges and proceeded to clean up the install. Reinstalled plastics into their spaces on the brick and all is very good indeed. Couple of hours max.

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #3519 on:** January 17, 2019, 09:13:14 AM »

That actually looks better than the stock bulb, which, by the way, is between the two holes that your LED's are in.

parabrick · « **Reply #3520 on:** January 17, 2019, 09:18:02 AM »

Thanks very much,Gryph! I just couldn't figure out how to remove the old one to insert the new. but it all worked out in the end....

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #3521 on:** January 17, 2019, 09:27:44 AM »

If you ever need to get the old one out, you just have to grab the rounded flange with a pair of pliers and pull straight out.

DavidATL · « **Reply #3522 on:** January 17, 2019, 09:43:48 AM »

I would like to thank, perhaps posthumously, the engineer that decided to place two holes in the back of this gauge so that we could easily add LED lighting 30 years on. Such foresight....

IMG_0030.jpg (84.51 kB . 768x576 - viewed 644 times)

Supershooter · « **Reply #3523 on:** January 20, 2019, 10:01:17 PM »

Charged the battery and fired it up! Just to shut it off. -10F windchill outside today.
Supershooter

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #3524 on:** January 20, 2019, 11:25:28 PM »

Quote from: Supershooter on January 20, 2019, 10:01:17 PM

Charged the battery and fired it up! Just to shut it off. -10F windchill outside today.
Supershooter

Sounds like your bike is running okay now.

I ran my bikes Friday until the fans cycled. I do that a couple times a month during the winter to keep things limbered up.

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Author Topic: What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ? (Read 2998872 times)