Crankcase breather hose cracks

[TechPoet]

 :lol: Noticed on the left side of the K75s, short hose, perhaps 4" long with cracks at either end.

It seems to enter the engine right behind the last cylinder. I'm not gonna make you laugh by guessing where it goes and comes from. I just need to pull out the Clymers and flip pages...

Am curious whether most hoses can just be removed at will if the bike is cool?

I have attached a 72dpi, 800x800 jpeg, that is less than 300kb.

[WayneDW]

Crankcase breather hose.  Yes it should be replaced when cracks appear.

[NickAndHisBrick]

Yep, crank breather, which means that its likely that the vac hoses and throttle body boots could also be cracked, causing additional leaks. Any cracked hose / boot that hooks to the intake is a potential leak of "unmetered air" into the engine, which will cause ridability probs.

Oh, and check the 2 middle throttle bodies, they have caps behind the fuel rail that can also crack

[TechPoet]

Thanks ever body, i fixed the subject for future searchers.

I found the crankcase breather hose http://www.beemerboneyard.com/11151460480.html. Did not find it in Clymers.

I will search for, but if you have links to parts please reply: vac hoses, throttle body boots, and middle throttle bodies.

[argent brick]

FWIW, I have been told that the OEM crankcase hose is known to be problematic and marginal at best. Also was told that the aftermarket one you find for sale is even worse. With that being said, the OEM hose is double the cost. Personally, I opted for the factory hose because I have a dealer nearby.

[Bassv]

Aha! Now I know where this hose is from. On my bike it's also cracked and around it, it's very dirty and oily. Will replace it soon!

Part nr. 11151460480

[WayneDW]

By the way, I am going to gently disagree that a cracked breather hose means the throttle body ducts are probably cracked as well.  Those are much sturdier and much harder to replace than a breather hose which is thinner and more commonly needs to be replaced.   The breather hose is replaced in 15 minutes while getting the throttle bodies and the rest off and replaced is a few hours plus and requires more mechanical acumen plus about $100 in parts (more for a four cylinder).

Of course, all rubber parts on these old bikes are suspect and each should be inspected and replaced as needed.

[mystic red]

By the way, I am going to gently disagree that a cracked breather hose means the throttle body ducts are probably cracked as well.  Those are much sturdier and much harder to replace than a breather hose which is thinner and more commonly needs to be replaced.   The breather hose is replaced in 15 minutes while getting the throttle bodies and the rest off and replaced is a few hours plus and requires more mechanical acumen plus about $100 in parts (more for a four cylinder).

Of course, all rubber parts on these old bikes are suspect and each should be inspected and replaced as needed.

My breather hose was good but I had a leak in the "throttle body ducts", which BMW call gaskets. If your in there, look at my post here.

[JamesInCA]

Thanks ever body, i fixed the subject for future searchers.

I found the crankcase breather hose http://www.beemerboneyard.com/11151460480.html. Did not find it in Clymers.

I will search for, but if you have links to parts please reply: vac hoses, throttle body boots, and middle throttle bodies.

3/16" vac hose from NAPA at 0.99/ft. Get two feet. You only really need one, but nice to have a few extra inches. Throttle rubbers are $5.26/ea at MaxBMW. (11 61 1 460 755) plus clamps, and the special pliers to crimp them. Lisle 30800, cheapest at Amazon.

[argent brick]

Can you get hose clamps from BMW that do not need to be crimped?

[billday]

You can get clamps from McMaster Carr or auto parts stores.... but the only reason to use non-OEM is to replace the Oetiker clamps with screw-type ones that don't require the special clamping tool. For the screw-type clamps, BMW is not expensive and you know you're getting the correct size.

When you use non-OEM, don't use the worm drive type clamps on your fuel lines.

[WayneDW]

For the throttle body clamps see #3 response here:
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,3826.0.html

Those Suzuki clamps worked perfectly and look great.  Though you need to make sure the screw heads don't interfere with the throttle linkage.

[Niemand]

One can frequently find the Knipex version of the Oetiker tool on eBay for about $20.  It snips and crimps those guys so easily, I always wonder what all the fuss is about.  I'll post the Knipex tool number later if anyone is interested...being too lazy at the moment, however.


Edit 4/10/2013:  I remembered incorrectly, as it is a crimp tool.  I used a good pair of diagonal cutters to remove them, then this tool to crimp.

[argent brick]

One can frequently find the Knipex version of the Oetiker tool on eBay for about $20.  It snips and crimps those guys so easily, I always wonder what all the fuss is about.  I'll post the Knipex tool number later if anyone is interested...being too lazy at the moment, however.

Yes, please.

[Niemand]

Knipex 1099

To avoid any further hijack I created a new thread about the tool:

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,4014.0.html

Carry on with your crusty hose stories.

[Supershooter]

I know it's been a while, since this was active, but why is it important to avoid worm drive clamps on these lines?
Supershooter

[F14CRAZY]

I know it's been a while, since this was active, but why is it important to avoid worm drive clamps on these lines?
Supershooter

Fuel injection hose clamps hold better, which is important for the high pressure of the system. The worm ones can strip

[kennybobby]

And the outer jacket of the fuel hose extrudes thru the slots in the worm clamps as they cut into the rubber.