Author Topic: Top-Loading tragkorbs on a K75?  (Read 48983 times)

Offline TimTyler

  • Adrninistrator
  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 1884
Re: Top-Loading tragkorbs on a K75?
« Reply #25 on: March 22, 2013, 03:25:15 PM »
Success!

I was able to get all but one of the Hepco & Becker rack's mounting points to line up properly without stressing or bending any metal. The right-top-front connection required an adapter I fashioned from some scrap metal. The holes there were about one inch off. Additionally, even without the horizontal connecting bar across the back of the racks, the assembly is rock solid.

I ordered the smallish Happy-Trails Owyhee tragkorbs which are just the right size to fit the K75 without creating any obstructions. Their 14" height allows both tragkorbs to be mounted evenly without the bottom touching the muffler on the left, and without the top interfering with the hinged open seat on the right side. The 7.5" width means the tragkorbs stick out just about the same as the BMW system cases do and they offer about the same capacity.

I used Touratech mounting hardware which is designed to fit the 15mm H&B pipe width. Measuring and drilling the holes in the tragkorbs for the mounts was time consuming. I started by supporting the left tragkorb on wooden blocks and wedges to position it barely above the muffler, and angling it so that it's matching counterpart on the right side would clear the open seat, and the rear tragkorb latches would clear the turn signals. It's a more drastic angle than ideal, but it's the only way both tragkorbs will fit without creating problems. Each tragkorb mount was individually held in position on the supported left tragkorb, traced, and then attached to the tragkorb on a workbench. This process took a while but assured that the mounts fit perfectly and would provide the most structural strength and eliminate tragkorb slippage once mounted on the rack.

I then removed the mounts from the left tragkorb, placed the left tragkorb on top of the right tragkorb, and traced the holes onto the right tragkorb with a silver Sharpie. Attached all eight mounts to the tragkorbs and then both tragkorbs to the rack. Vacuumed all the aluminum shaving from the tragkorbs. Done.

Offline TimTyler

  • Adrninistrator
  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 1884
Re: Top-Loading tragkorbs on a K75?
« Reply #26 on: September 24, 2013, 04:39:54 PM »
Just following up on this...

After about 10k miles with this tragkorb system I've had no problems.

I love the top loading, the ability to open them with bags strapped to the top, the ability to screw bottle holders and such into them, and the fact that they're metal.

Offline Grim

  • ^ Proficient Motobricker
  • Posts: 494
Re: Top-Loading tragkorbs on a K75?
« Reply #27 on: September 24, 2013, 10:01:21 PM »
Thanks for the update. I don't know how I missed this thread.

I'm love hate with the factory tragkorbs. Love that my helmet fits in the left side. However side loading is just plain a pain in the butt though, especially if on the side stand trying to load the left.  Trying to get stuff like Jackets stuffed in without getting pinched in the seal is a real fight. I've been trying to figure out how to build a shelf sort of like the city tragkorbs that would still let me use the liners.

 Then there's the dumb design where the latch pools water.

Now I know there's another option.
1995 Morea Green K1100LT

Offline TimTyler

  • Adrninistrator
  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 1884
Re: Top-Loading tragkorbs on a K75?
« Reply #28 on: September 24, 2013, 10:36:06 PM »
My one regret is that I wish I went with taller tragkorbs. These were chosen since they fit with the standard height hinged Corbin Gunfighter seat I had on the bike at the time. The low tragkorbs didn't get in the way of the seat when it was "opened".

With a lift-off low seat any height tragkorb would work.

The smaller size does keep my carry load reasonable though...

Offline Dragwn

  • MFP Gosling 1
  • Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 45
  • Guinness for Breakfast
Re: Top-Loading tragkorbs on a K75?
« Reply #29 on: November 15, 2014, 11:46:10 PM »
So how much did this route end up costing you? I would rather have the aluminum bags since I really don't take my bags off anyway and also all six latches on my bags have different lock numbers and I am having no luck getting replacement latches.
1985 K100rs
2000 Kwaka ZRX1100

Offline TimTyler

  • Adrninistrator
  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 1884
Re: Top-Loading tragkorbs on a K75?
« Reply #30 on: November 17, 2014, 09:45:41 AM »
About $1k for the tragkorbs and rack. I sold my old bags to offset the cost too.

Offline Bogman57

  • Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 13
Re: Top-Loading tragkorbs on a K75?
« Reply #31 on: December 06, 2016, 05:21:10 PM »
Thank you Tim for this very useful and Well writer post. I am in the process of replacing my stock K75 tragkorbs in preparation for a long European trip, and have been checking out the H+B frame . Its the only one i can find that seems to frit. Any further Update on yours? Did they rektificer the 1" undersize problem you were describing? Many thanks, Kevin
  • Copenhagen, Denmark
  • 1996 K75 Ultima

Offline TimTyler

  • Adrninistrator
  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 1884
Re: Top-Loading tragkorbs on a K75?
« Reply #32 on: December 06, 2016, 05:29:16 PM »
If I knew then what I know now I'd probably have a rack custom made rather than buy the Hepco Becker. The HB rack is thin tube, brazed (not welded) and did not fit perfectly. It bends easily if the bike tips over. It is not a heavy duty rack by any means. I had a local welding shop reinforce my rack with some steel bits.

Unless you plan on carrying light weight tragkorbs, find a more durable solution than the Hepco Becker.

Offline Revrdmark

  • ^ Proficient Motobricker
  • Posts: 136
Re: Top-Loading tragkorbs on a K75?
« Reply #33 on: December 07, 2016, 11:36:02 AM »
I was looking into the same project for my buell Ulysses. The bike came with H&B frame and those huge plastic "samsonite" luggage which was over kill for me. I liked the square box look but didn't want to spend a grand on aluminum boxes. I went to my local army surplus store and got two ammo cans for $15 each ( on sale from $20). I got some angle iron some "U bolts" fabricated a little bracket to connect to the H&B frame and bolted them on. I put thumb screws on the inside so I could easily remove them if I needed to to bring luggage inside at night. I left them military green and put stickers on them. Plus I kinda like the apocalypse look of it. Not sure if it's your thing but for under $40 I got strong boxes and have bounced them off trees etc with little damage. Plus if I do wreck one it's $20 to replace ( or wait for $15 sale) here is a few pics of process.



Here is the bracket









Just thought I'd share something that worked well for me. I know it's not everyone's thing



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Spokane WA
  • 87 K100

Tags: