Plugs won't spark on the RS [SOLVED]

[tsbt]

Spent the last couple of weeks getting the brick all back together after a long series of major fixes. She turns over, lights up the cluster on every single light but does not spark.

Thought maybe I'd been given the wrong spark plugs put in the old ones back in, no dice...wondered if it was the Dielectric grease I used on all my connectors hindering connection...tried again, lots of clicking and flashing and motronic noises as well as the ABS flickering on and off.

Didn't mess with the ignition, at all. Maybe I missed a ground somewhere.  :hmm:

UPDATE: Unplugged the battery charger this morning still turns over but no spark. Noticed the Motronic is now making a consistent click after it does the diagnostic. Worried maybe something is arching or I'm toasting the Motronic. But I'm i noob-ville over here, humbled by my lack of K-knowledge. Would love to hear your thoughts.






 

[frankenduck]

Side stand up?

[tsbt]

Side stand up?

Yes sir. Checked my fuel tonight, wasn't moving inside the tank when turning over, think having fuel out of the tank at the paintshop seized the fuel pump. Plugs are dry as a board after twisting the throttle. Pump makes a buzzing sound.

[tsbt]

It might not be the pump after all. This morning I drained the fuel tank more to see if the pump would show any signs of gas moving around, no swirlies. The pump still makes a buzzing sound when I turn it over so I unplugged the gas line to the fuel rail and got pressure because gas shot out. Still doesn't explain no spark and the plugs not being covered with gasoline from twisting the throttle. Could my spark plug wires be shot AND my injectors gummed up because it sat for two months in repair? :dunno  think I'll tackle it again tonight and see where I get.

[frankenduck]

Disconnect the side stand switch and short the two terminals on it to each other to eliminate that as a possible cause.

[tsbt]

While I was fishing for the side stand plug to short, I noticed a leak coming from my clutch boot, so now I'm removing the gearbox all over again to replace the output seal. Frustrating!

[Rick G]

You dont need to remove anything except the boot and replace it maybe. There is supposed to be oil behind it the seal in there stops the oil going up the center of the shaft to the clutch.

[tsbt]

You dont need to remove anything except the boot and replace it maybe. There is supposed to be oil behind it the seal in there stops the oil going up the center of the shaft to the clutch.

Hey Rick! New boot. New hose clamp. Thought I tightened the hose clamp well when assembling the first time however shouldn't the gearbox output seal keep oil in in the gearbox? I feel pretty daft if it was simply a loose hose clamp.  :tongue I might also check to see if the new boot ripped at all.

[tsbt]

Is this my problem? guess I'll find out.

[Rick G]

Is this my problem? guess I'll find out.

The space behind that boot is within the gearbox oil space and is like that because oil needs to get to the throwout bearing. The seal prevents oil getting any futher and into the shaft.
I have seen some seal put in the wrong way by mistake, on first glance it seems like it is the wrong way round but the side with the small cylindrical spring should go towards the rubber boot. 
One thing that caught me out once was the adjuster screw being screwed in too far which prevented a good seal at the outer end of the boot where it goes against the actuating arm. This makes the arm sit too far back and the angle is not right so the sealing surface doesn't seal.

[tsbt]

The leak turned out to be a badly seated clutch boot, needed a dryer seal and tighter clamp, the sparks weren't firing because I somehow missed one of the coil grounds that got tucked in behind. Thanks Duck. Thanks Rick.

Today I'll sync the throttle bodies and take a stab at hooking up the cruise control, Monday Insurance goes back on, new tires this week and a trip north next weekend to test ride.  :2thumbup: