Speedo on last legs? Any Suggestions on who or where to get repaired?

[Opus]

Okay, Replaced the PCB and got "NO JOY" on reconnection.

@DUCK,
I have found a used speedo but is is listed for K75 85-95.
It looks like it has ABS on it. Will it work on my 88 K100 w/o ABS?
I have checked the pin-outs and it looks ok.

I know that the Gear problem is else where, but it would fix my Counter/Trip meter problems.
Thanks
Toney

[frankenduck]

Yes, in my experience you should be able to run an ABS cluster on a non-ABS bike.

[Opus]

Cool, Thanks!!!
Hope this will save me a few bucks over having to ship mine off for repairs.

Thanks again. :2thumbup:

[Opus]

Okay an update as to what I have done up to now.
Replaced the GPI PCB and that did not fix the problem.
I removed the panel and checked the connections and that was when my Trip counter reset knob popped out the bezel.
When I checked the end of the knob shaft it was broken. Removed the spring, washer & retaining clip from the insides and closed the panel.
I covered the hole for the knob and reinstalled the panel.

Today I decided to take a ride and now that Speedometer Needle is not working correctly.
Beginning to think I need to call a Exorcist!!
I think that the needle is rubbing the bezel face.

I have ordered a used/newer panel to replace this one. Frankenduck said that it "SHOULD" work on mine.
Now to retrace my PD steps and see what I missed for the GPI issue.

BTW Thanks to everyones help on this. I will be looking back here for hints and help.

[Opus]

Then you also must swap the PCB`s for the fuel level, since it two different systems.
The old one using two thermistors, the new one a switch.

I`ll guess the problem with the one you got is just a minor problem in the switched circuit,
what doesn`t make sense is that the instruments is working.

What`s the problem with the GPI?

Inge K.

When I was going through my speedo to look at the circuit for my trip computer, many of the PCB traces were very thin, giving several failure points.

If you open it, and post detailed pictures, I may be able to help remotely. (Tele-Medicine for speedometers.) Are you comfortable with a soldering iron on expensive things?

Your problem with the speedo sounds similar to mine when I toasted part of the speedo board with a shorted wire. I was able to fix it with a jumper wire.

Your GPI switch may be broken. http://ibmwr.org/ktech/trans-switch.shtml Looks like the Yellow/White wire (or the internal part of the circuit in the cluster) is broken.

@WMAX351
I when to the page and the wires are not matching what I see.
I have
Brown
Green/White
Yellow
White.
Posting pictures below.
Am I looking in the wrong place?

Thanks Opus.

[Scott_]

@ Inge K.
The GPI is not showing the correct information. When in neutral the LCD shows 4Th. In 1st it shows 5Th, 2Nd & 3rd nothing, 4Th & 5Th show normal. When in neutral the neutral light does not come on.
I was told that the GPI PCB is bad and has to be replaced. That was okay up to the point where my my Odometer & Trip meter stopped working and my Speedometer has started acting up.......

What you are describing there is exactly what I saw last weekend on Ducks k75 pod. As he fiddled with the connection on the backside of the pod it cleared up.
Could it be part of your male pins of the pod are not making good contact with the female contacts in the harness connector?

[Opus]

@ Inge K.
The GPI is not showing the correct information. When in neutral the LCD shows 4Th. In 1st it shows 5Th, 2Nd & 3rd nothing, 4Th & 5Th show normal. When in neutral the neutral light does not come on.
I was told that the GPI PCB is bad and has to be replaced. That was okay up to the point where my my Odometer & Trip meter stopped working and my Speedometer has started acting up.......

What you are describing there is exactly what I saw last weekend on Ducks k75 pod. As he fiddled with the connection on the backside of the pod it cleared up.
Could it be part of your male pins of the pod are not making good contact with the female contacts in the harness connector?

I have taken the panel off a few time now and I have not seen anything, but will take a closer look at the female connections when I replace the old panel with the newer one.
I was trying to diagnose the wiring/switchs but I don't think the plug I'm testing is the right one.

[wmax351]

Then you also must swap the PCB`s for the fuel level, since it two different systems.
The old one using two thermistors, the new one a switch.

I`ll guess the problem with the one you got is just a minor problem in the switched circuit,
what doesn`t make sense is that the instruments is working.

What`s the problem with the GPI?

Inge K.

When I was going through my speedo to look at the circuit for my trip computer, many of the PCB traces were very thin, giving several failure points.

If you open it, and post detailed pictures, I may be able to help remotely. (Tele-Medicine for speedometers.) Are you comfortable with a soldering iron on expensive things?

Your problem with the speedo sounds similar to mine when I toasted part of the speedo board with a shorted wire. I was able to fix it with a jumper wire.

Your GPI switch may be broken. http://ibmwr.org/ktech/trans-switch.shtml Looks like the Yellow/White wire (or the internal part of the circuit in the cluster) is broken.

@WMAX351
I when to the page and the wires are not matching what I see.
I have
Brown
Green/White
Yellow
White.
Posting pictures below.
Am I looking in the wrong place?

Thanks Opus.

That looks like the fuel tank connector.

[Opus]

Okay then.
I should be able to check the GPI Switchs from the panel connectors. This also means I can recheck the ribbon cables for faults also.
It may not be the easy way, but it is a way.
See guys! All it takes is a few suggestions  and a Baseball Bat and it will sink in... :hehehe

[Opus]

Okay here we go again.
How do you fit a round peg into a square hole?

Old Panel Pix #1
New Panel Pix#2

It was sold to fit a K75 1985 to 95

Per Frankenduck it should fit. (I know Duck I did say "should")
Any ideas on what I should do next besides pushing it off a cliff?
Has anyone ran in to this and found a resolve?

Thanks

[mystic red]

So what's the difference? I can't blow both of them up to compare. Only one at a time in a pop-up window.

[Opus]

Sorry about that Red. :embarass:
The old Panel has flat connector pins, the new one has round pins.
I have tried to plug the round into the square female connections but will not seat.
Now I'm stuck on what to do next, flatten the round pins or round out the square holes?
Or is there another way to make it work that my old brain has not seen yet?

I want to use the newer one, because the ribbon cable looks alot better condishion that the old one.

Any Ideas?

[Scott_]

Well, there is always the option of the whole harness with the matching female connector on it.................. :eek:

[Opus]

Or I can take an awl and round out the opening to the female connectors.
It went on with no problems. I reconnected the old panel and it still works to, so no harm done.
Bur I will have to make a trip to the Hardware store for longer bolts to attach it to the mounting bracket.
The old ones are not long enough and it is getting late.
Will update again later on.

BTW: My GPI is still not working right.  :hehehe
But I do know  now that it is not the GPI/PCB!!!!!!!

Thanks everyone for your help up to now.

[Scott_]

BTW: My GPI is still not working right.  :hehehe
But I do know  now that it is not the GPI/PCB!!!!!!!

Well, the gpi switch has been known to fail, not often but it has happened.
You have to pull off the swing arm to get to it.

[kona k]

I had much of what you describe on an 86 K75, 67k miles. Turned out it was several different things, some that were really easy to fix.

GPI very dim and no back light:  I've got signal so it's not the switch. Learning to live with that one...   

The odometer/trip log didn't advance, Speedo works: Removed the speedo assembly, replaced the "soft gears" with parts I got from Palo Alto.. $78 all up. Got here in a couple days...which is good for Hawaii. Happily counting miles now.

Speedo stopped working shortly after I had it back together. Took it apart again and found a spring... exactly like the one on the odometer reset knob... stuck between the back of faceplate and needle swing arm. The needle is happy again.

I changed the display backlighting to LED from the Duck when I had it apart. Cheap, easy.. but if they are not connected properly they will not work. Trust me, I know this.. 

Good hunting!

[Opus]

Morning world!
So here we are again. Looks like I will keep the new(er) Panel. Just have to buy longer screws to mount it to the holder. (Hardware store time)

@Scott_
That is my next plan of attack. But going to hold off until I do my winter PM routine. I will be doing a full lube job on the bike then and I want to get some ride time in.
The GPI is not that high on the to do list as the Odometer/Trip Meter was. I can live with it for now. (Besides I have to rebuild my Toy Fund 1st.)

@ Kona K
Thanks for the suggestions & Info. With the new(er) panel most my problems are now fixed but the GPI problems. I can live with it until I can check the TGPI switch's when I do my Winter PM....

To Duck, Red and everone else that has helped me!
Thank You for your time and input. You are a great help to me.
I still have a lot to do the get this bike back to 100% (Cables/Paint/Wiring/etc)
But for now I want some ride time.
SO for now I declare the Speedo project closed! & Thanks again!!!!!!!