Rough Runin' K11

[mystic red]

Close to 80K. It idles fine. When running down, the road if you hammer it, it doesn't seem to pull very strong.

[frankenduck]

Has the air filter ever been replaced?

It sounds as though it might not be getting enough fuel if it's not pulling strong.

It might not hurt to have the FI's cleaned by our friend Mr.Injector.  Since you have to let is sit up every winter maybe there's some varnish built up in them.  It doesn't cost too much and certainly can't hurt.

That K1 I just bought had 82k on it when I got it.  One of the things I did to it was put reconditioned FIs in it.  It runs like a top now.  I did other stuff so I can't attribute it all to the FIs but I'm sure that didn't hurt.

JO's motoheap has over 100k on it so I"m gonna help him install some recondtioined FIs this summer before MotoDungee 2011.

[mystic red]

New air filter. Would dirty injectors cause a drop in fuel mileage?
Whose "Mr Injector?"

[frankenduck]

New air filter. Would dirty injectors cause a drop in fuel mileage?
Whose "Mr Injector?"

If the spray pattern isn't misting the fuel properly then you might not be getting optimal combustion.

Mr. Injector is a feller in Idaho who reconditions FIs.

http://www.mrinjector.us/



(FYI: Whose is a possessive pronoun.  Who's is a contraction of "who is."  Who's the Mystic Rod dude whose K1100LT is giving him trouble?)

[mystic red]

O.K.., always check the last thing you worked on, mechaneckin' 101. #1 plug wire had come loose. Think it's going to run a lot better on all 4 cylinders.
Commence the roasting. ::)

[frankenduck]

Your bike turns red so you don't have to.

Glad it turned out to be something simple. 8)

[mystic red]

O.K., I got the spark plug wire on proper and took it for a test spin. Now I'm back to the surging deal. It will stall a little and then run like it's supposed to once it get through the surges. Spark or fuel. New fuel filter. Pulled the plugs (new) and they look text book. Gapped correct. Light tan, not wet. Checked resistance on the wires, 5.9 to 6. What else, coil ground, fuel pressure test? Don't have a pressure tester but that seems like it would eliminate a lot of crap. It's starting to get nice here and I want to whine....errrr.....get this thing running like it should. ???
If it was injector problems wouldn't it show on the plugs and wouldn't the bike always run ch!ttie?

[frankenduck]

Have you checked for air leaks yet?  As you up the RPMs the vacuum can make the leaks seal themselves which might account for surging.

Got anything to synch the TBs with yet?

[mystic red]

Got anything to synch the TBs with yet?

Nope, this way beyond synching.

Yea, I sprayed starter fluid with no change in engine speed. :(

[frankenduck]

I'd send the injectors in to Mr. Injector.  Even if it's not the injectors then that will eliminate them as a possible cause and IMO, at 80k it's good preventative maintenance anyhow and relatively inexpensive at $69 total.  It certainly won't make things worse.

The K1 had 82k when I got it and ran a bit rough but after I installed recon'd FIs it ran much better.  Yeah, I also put in newer coils/leads and fixed an air leak but I'd guess that the FIs played some role in making it run so much better.

(FYI: I'm going to help Johnny put some recon'd FIs in the motoheap when he's up here in July.)

The reason I ask about the TB sych is that that's a good way to diagnose air leaks.  I found the air leak on the motoheap and the K1 that way.  On each bike I couldn't synch one of the TBs which is how I knew there was an air leak.  It's a bit more reliable than starter fluid to diagnose things IMO since if the air leak is on the back then the starter fluid might not get sucked in.

Get thee a TwinMax or a CarbTune.  You can use it on wifey's ride too.

[mystic red]

O.K., here's the deal. Gots a blown #5.



 They call it a bushing. It's the rubber connector on top of the intake manifold. Seven $ and change and I need 4. Gonna do the vacuum line and fuel lines (can see cracks in the one that attaches to the fuel rail) that attach to the fuel regulator while I'm there. Injectors will be cleaned. Any more parts to be replaced while I've got the fuel rail and a it stripped to the intakes?

I'm down for a while it looks like. :'( :'( 

I decided while writing this to add four 3s. Just in case.

And here's a great tip when looking for vacuum leaks. Get yourself a 1# propane tank and attach a torch to the top. Then tape up the breather holes on the torch and attach a piece of flexible hose to the end of the torch. I used a piece about 4 feet long.
Start your engine, turn on the propane and use the hose to pinpoint the leak. You can put the hose right where you want to check for leaks.
Safer and  more accurate than starter fluid or other flammable sprays.

[johnny]

i didnt know starter fluid was flammable... i should start smoking it instead of huffing it...

j o

[frankenduck]

Cut off those dumbass Oetiker clamps (Dremel cutting wheel) and replace them with stainless worm drive clamps.

McMaster-Carr part 388K32

I'd replace #1s too while you're in there.

[mystic red]

Cut off those dumbass Oetiker clamps (Dremel cutting wheel) and replace them with stainless worm drive clamps.

McMaster-Carr part 388K32

I'd replace #1s too while you're in there.

That part # doesn't come up at M/C? What clamps are you speaking of? The ones holding the bushing on the intakes?
You would replace the manifolds? Why?

[frankenduck]

Dropped a digit: 5388K32

Because they're 16 year old plastic that's been subjected to numerous heat cycles and 80k of riding as well as long annual layups.  While you've got everything apart it makes sense. (to me anyhow)

[mystic red]

Dropped a digit: 5388K32

Because they're 16 year old plastic that's been subjected to numerous heat cycles and 80k of riding as well as long annual layups.  While you've got everything apart it makes sense. (to me anyhow)

By God they are plastic. I had it my head they were metal. Ordered.

New clamps ordered.

Wonder how much of this ch!t will come directly from the Germans.

[frankenduck]

Pretty sure it all comes from the fatherland.  Unless they're outsourcing to China too. ::)

[mystic red]

Duck, what would you do with the 2 hoses that come out of the front of the air box? Are they necessary or are they emission ch!t that can be eliminated?
Also, I have no bolts to attach the bottom of the air box to the engine. There are just 2 rubber grommets filling the holes that lead to threaded holes in the engine. I think I'll find a couple and put them in to make changing the f-ing air filter easier.
 It's all stripped down, with pictures for a tutorial, if we need one. Hope I can remember how it goes back together. ???

[frankenduck]

The RealOEM catalog should have the bolt sizes and lengths for the air box hold down bolts.

By the way, in case you haven't figured it out you'll need a set of the #3 O-rings as well.

[frankenduck]

Duck, what would you do with the 2 hoses that come out of the front of the air box? Are they necessary or are they emission ch!t that can be eliminated?

Why do you need to f with the air box?  Leave the top of the air box and those hoses as they are.

You can put those bolts in that secure the bottom of the air box once the filter is out and not having to remove the top of the air box.  I did it just yesterday on a K75 I was helping a guy with.

[Scott_]

MR, sounds like you are doing to yours what I did to my '95 during my winter '09 teardown. All of the rubber o-rings, hoses, fuel lines, vac lines, cooling hoses, clutch disk and engine output shaft seal(was leaking and started the whole teardown ordeal).

Runs better, but I think that there is still room for improvement. I'm thinking the injectors need done next as I should have done them at that time but didn't.

[mystic red]

Duck, what would you do with the 2 hoses that come out of the front of the air box? Are they necessary or are they emission ch!t that can be eliminated?

Why do you need to f with the air box?  Leave the top of the air box and those hoses as they are.

You can put those bolts in that secure the bottom of the air box once the filter is out and not having to remove the top of the air box.  I did it just yesterday on a K75 I was helping a guy with.

I didn't take it out but the short hose came off and I haven't been able to see where it hooks up to. They aren't even shown in the fiche. So my original question still stands, are they necessary?

I bet the short hose hooks to the big hose junction on the back of the fuel rail.

[mystic red]

The RealOEM catalog should have the bolt sizes and lengths for the air box hold down bolts.

By the way, in case you haven't figured it out you'll need a set of the #3 O-rings as well.

6, not listed, but i have the size and have guestamated the length.


No.   Description   Supplement   Qty    From     Up To    Part Number   Price   Notes
01   AIR CLEANER HOUSING BOTTOM      1         13721460339   $18.02   +core
02   Bump stop      3         17111460400   $1.19   
04   Rubber grommet      2         61131243744   $2.80   
09   Air filter element      1         13721460337   $52.25   
11   INTAKE MANIFOLD      1         13721464559   $39.39   
12   Washer   5,3   2         07119936416   $0.40   
13   Hex bolt   M5X10   2         07119913218   $0.12   
14   Spring      3         13721460488   $12.05   
15   IDLE REGULATING VALVE      1         13621461425   $153.71   +core

Yea, I had 3s on the original order.

[frankenduck]

Yeah, that's some weird chit.  I've got the BMW parts catalog and it says "This part not installed in the specified vehicle."  WTF? 

Maybe you should just JB Weld it to the engine block. ;D

[frankenduck]

FYI: the bolt size for a K75 is M8x30