Just for Ch1ts and Grins; the ShogyGrid K1100 Frankin-tranny

[CRASH]

Try this link:
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51713&rnd=03252011

Go to 23-Transmission

Looks like part #1?  Now is it still available?  If so, I bet it has to come from the Fatherland and it will cost a gold bar or two.

[Shoganai]

O.M.G.! $$$$$ :eek2:

Perhaps I find someone to repair it cheaper than that. :hmm

[CRASH]

Check out this site and drop these guys an -email what you are looking for.  They may be able to help you out as well.

http://www.beemerboneyard.com/tr.html

I have never heard of a spline repair, but can see it being fraught with issues and reliability.

[Shoganai]

Thank you.

[CRASH]

And DUH ... maybe the Duck can help?  Sorry Frankenduck, blanked you may have some parts lying about.

[Shoganai]

No wrenchin' on an empty stomach I sez.


In my very best Paula Dean..."Hows 'bout some Shepards Pie you'll"?

[Rick G]

Just thinking before you buy a shaft have a chat with brunos in Canada he may be able to repair that spline. He does the splines on the rear drives at a very reasonable rate.
I don't know his address but there will be others who do, I think Frankenduck would know.  Would be good to find out if they can be rebuilt as it seems to be the major problem with those transmissions.

[frankenduck]

Bruno's doesn't mention splines on their transmission page: http://www.brunos.us/Gearbox%20Transmissions.htm

Can't hurt to drop them a line and ask though....

[Shoganai]

Today I worked on the intermedate and outout shafts.

The first this I did was oil the parts I needed to set aside for now since I had removed all the oil before breaking them down.





I was able to remove the shim.



Someone asked for these two pics.





Intermedate shaft bearing removal.







Can you pick out what's wrong here?
Is seriously wrong!

[Rick G]

If you see the local dental technician might have a set of false ones and you might be able to claim them on your insurance. Wouldn't that be nice.

[Scott_]

I missed it earlier, but see it now, you socket is too big. You are pressing on the bearing, not the shaft......
dont feel bad, btdt myself a few times......... :hmm:

[Shoganai]

Grabbing the correct size drift...





I pop it out and then the other side.





Bad bearing.










Next up, the output shaft. The Clymer siad do it like this.



So I put the collar on...



And no matter what I do, I can't made the gears not foul with the stands. Now, because I'm stupid, I don't know if that matters, but it just doesn't look or feel right so keep trying.









Ok, I go back and look at the picture showing me how to do this. There I note the nuts on the left are at the end of the stud and the ones the the right show extended stud threads, so...





That does work either.

Well, here's at least part of my problem.





I set it up like this then.



And it comes right out.





Off slides 3rd gear. (PS ignore the numbers, they are there to keep me straight)

[Shoganai]

Next to remove the other bearing







Then this bushing























To my untrained eye, I think it looks good.
Next the snap ring and split needle bearing.

Shaft wrapped in leather.





Off slides 2nd gear.





Here you can see one of the splined washers just under the hole in the shaft.



Under that is another snap ring.



And with that, the last gear slides off.







Now for the last bushing.










Well, that's that.













It will be a few weeks before I have the time to go at this again.

Thanks for following along.

[DRxBMW]

Silly question ?

You do know that one has to "properly shim" a transmission upon reassembly.

The pros use a case that has cut out slots for measurement. 

WITHOUT shimming it will suffer premature death.

[Shoganai]

I forgot to mention earlier I bought these so I didn't have to go upstairs to the garage for tools and that way if Steve needed them they would be there for him.







I also bought this today. FINALLY a decent snap ring tool!
2.0 on the right of course.






One more thing...I have this PERFECT input shaft out of another K1100RS. Does anyone see a problem with putting this one in this tranny?

[Shoganai]

Thank you, yes I do but as of right now I don't know how to do that.
I will though.

I have a digital depth gage to do this with.



I still need to get part num. 23-3-660 shown here.



And I have this to go by.







I'll also be working off a slab of granite and using a bar of engineered steel.

Again, I don't know how, that's why I'm doing all this.
I could use any and ALL advice and suggestions, so thank you very much. :yes

Silly question ?

You do know that one has to "properly shim" a transmission upon reassembly.

The pros use a case that has cut out slots for measurement. 

WITHOUT shimming it will suffer premature death.

[Shoganai]

I have a couple of questions.

It was suggested by a friend the if I use the input shaft above I replace the helical gear from this shaft with the helical gear from the original shaft.

The reasoning being that gears that have spent 181,000 miles together were 'mated'.



If that is the case, would I also need to transfer all of this a swell?




One more thing. While digging through some old emails I found this.

Before disassembling, measure axial clearance
of spur gear for 1st, 2nd and 5th gears.
1st gear .... 0.10...0.30 mm (0.003937...0.01181in)
2nd gear ... 0.20...0.60 mm (0.007874...0.02362in)
5th gear .... 0.20...0.40 mm (0.007874...0.01575in)


Well clearly I forgot to do that and neither Clymer nor BMW manuals prompted me.

How badly have I screwed up?

[DRxBMW]

I put out some feelers about your tranny rebuild, see what happens.

There's a master tech located in Vermont who is excellent. 

http://tinyurl.com/motobricktransmisson

I may have some shimming specs on my laptop from a K 75 revamp,let me search this evening.

[Shoganai]

Thank you, I can use all the help I can get.

I put out some feelers about your tranny rebuild, see what happens.

There's a master tech located in Vermont who is excellent. 

http://tinyurl.com/motobricktransmisson

I may have some shimming specs on my laptop from a K 75 revamp,let me search this evening.

[DRxBMW]

Here's what I've gleaned so far.

http://k100rt.aforumfree.com/t2810-gearbox-bummer-rebuild-overhaul?highlight=gearbox

http://k100rt.aforumfree.com/search?search_keywords=%22gearbox%22

You may want to email Bert privately for more suggestions.

I've only ever been into a K 75 tranny. FWIW, it's NOT easy.

[Shoganai]

Thank you.
I signed up there.

Here's what I've gleaned so far.

http://k100rt.aforumfree.com/t2810-gearbox-bummer-rebuild-overhaul?highlight=gearbox

http://k100rt.aforumfree.com/search?search_keywords=%22gearbox%22

You may want to email Bert privately for more suggestions.

I've only ever been into a K 75 tranny. FWIW, it's NOT easy.

[Rick G]

I have a couple of questions.

It was suggested by a friend the if I use the input shaft above I replace the helical gear from this shaft with the helical gear from the original shaft.

The reasoning being that gears that have spent 181,000 miles together were 'mated'.



If that is the case, would I also need to transfer all of this a swell?




One more thing. While digging through some old emails I found this.

Before disassembling, measure axial clearance
of spur gear for 1st, 2nd and 5th gears.
1st gear .... 0.10...0.30 mm (0.003937...0.01181in)
2nd gear ... 0.20...0.60 mm (0.007874...0.02362in)
5th gear .... 0.20...0.40 mm (0.007874...0.01575in)


Well clearly I forgot to do that and neither Clymer nor BMW manuals prompted me.

How badly have I screwed up?

No screw up Gwen when building a gearbox from scratch for a racing app then sure axial clearances are something to take notice but gears from one trany to another there is no need to do that sort of thing they are all built to the same size +- and any wear will be in the brass bushes that are getting replaced.

With regard to changing the other gears for "mating" absolutely not neccessary but I must say that I would not be using that gear in the picture as it looks to me that the hard facing is failing or rather has failed. It may be some dirt on the gear faces and so could be OK but check it out because there lies problems.