Turn signals relay won’t latch with LED and resistors installed

[3dachshunds]

Hello folks, I am working of 1994 scrambler project. Turn signals are LED, and each signal has 6 Ohm. 50W resistor in parallel. They are not hyper flashing, but only work as long as turn signal buttons are pressed. Emergency flashing works fine. Turn signal relay is stock (Warnle 54 210 001). Any help to resolve this would be greatly appreciated!

[Laitch]

Is this it? It's always helpful to provide a photo. Have you done anything to restore its function?
WEHRLE 54 210 001

[3dachshunds]

This is the actual reba. I haven’t modified it in any way.

[Edward]

You could pop it open to spray a little electrical contact cleaner (CRC) on the small electromagnetic coils left and right.

Personally I've been having a relay issue with my 87.  I was able to get it work for a little while. Beemer Boneyard has a used unit available. A new in the box unit from ebay arrives mid week to correct the intermittency.

[Ingo]

Are you sure the cancel button is not shorted/grounded?

[3dachshunds]

Very good point, I didn’t think about that. How would it be possible to test that with multimeter?

[Laitch]

Okay. Would you define "reba." Also, that relay unit doesn't have "warnie" printed on it; it has Warnbl. Warnbl. is the German abbreviation for warnblinkanlage meaning "hazard lights" which can mean turn signals and/or emergency flashing lights.

I believe your problem is within the right switch gear, as Ingo indicated. You probably need to disassemble that to a degree in which you are comfortable and study the action of the turn signal cancellation button. Here is a tutorial covering disassembly of the right side switch gear. It is a European switch gear that includes the headlight switch but the Cancel function of it is the same as on our US switch. You should obtain DeoxIT D5—a superior electronics cleaner—and clean all connections of that switch. I had problems with my headlight switch not lighting the high beam; DeoxIt restored its function.

Disassemble the switch within a large box so spring-loaded parts and other small part don't get away from you. Click the link below the line to view the PDF.

[daveson]

The turn signals depend on fuse seven for power, the hazard function doesn't, so replacing the fuse might fix the problem. While you're at it, it would probably be a good idea to replace all the fuses, clean the contact points, and check that they're all a tight fit.

[Edward]

not all fuses are quality.

Get the brand LittleFuse ATOF with TIN coatings NOT the silver version. ATOF is the current version of ATC fuses. Yes, replace them all. Doing that as well for my k and Brutale. I've just gone down this rabbit hole. Grainger is the supplier with fresh stock arriving after the new years. Look on LittleFuse website for distribution. Buy backups.

[Laitch]

You could have a problem with the cancellation circuit in the relay. That circuit is through the TA pin. Maybe just cleaning the pin of both the relay and the plug will bring it back into action.

Here's daveson showing how to rig the pin for testing, if that becomes necessary.

[3dachshunds]

Good morning folks! Indeed, as some of you suspected, it appears to be right handlebar control. Disconnected it and the left turn signal stays on (latching).  I disassembled the right hand control and tried to clean contacts as best as I could with electronic part cleaner spray and 1200 grit paper, but still the same. In fact, while kill switch works, starter button doesn’t work (no crank). But I am getting crank when jumping its leads (solid green and black/green, I think). So I created external loop with push button switch I found in my garage and it works for starting engine. So I am thinking to add similar external loop to bypass cancellation paddle, just not sure how to do it.