Rear main seal leak??

[Filmcamera]

I was thinking the same, when I disassemble it all again I am going to try reinstalling the old one and see if that helps, the other possibility is that maybe the new clutch I brought is wrong. I will reinstall the old clutch again.


That way I will be back as I was (except for the new rear main seal) and can start eliminating possible issues from there.

[daveson]

Before you disassemble again, what about the other suggestions, for example readjusting the clutch lever free play, since you have installed a new (thicker) clutch.

If the clutch nuts were easier than usual to tighten, that would match with the ring missing between the clutch basket and the diaphragm spring, and would explain your other symptoms.

[Laitch]

As daveson indicates, the clutch should always be fully readjusted by the book after work like this. Was that done?

[Past-my-Prime]

You are not alone.
While mine is a K75, so may differ, when I reassembled after replacing the clutch pack, it seemed to go together very easily. That is because I had the spring backwards. I don't recall if the clutch would not engage, or would not disengage but I did have to take the ENTIRE THING apart and turn it around: then all was well in my little corner of the universe. The upside is I'm now more adept at removing / reinstalling all the bits from the clutch back to the rear tire and everything that attaches to it.
Sounds like your problem is a bit different but to the extent that misery loves company, you've got company!

[Filmcamera]

Here are a few pictures of the clutch pack etc. 


There is also one small video where I am removing the clutch pack.  If you look carefully you can just see the spring decompressing as I undo the allen bolt, is that normal?


My next step will be to remove the new clutch basket and install the old one again, do you think I can get away with reusing the nut since the bike has never actually moved with the new nut installed?



https://www.motobrick.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4598

[Laitch]

There is also one small video where I am removing the clutch pack.  If you look carefully you can just see the spring decompressing as I undo the allen bolt, is that normal?

The spring applies tension on the pressure plate to engage the clutch. What you note is tension being released. In real life, the clutch rod would push against the spring to relieve tension on the plate.
I really don't understand your method of investigation, Filmcamera. I would have reversed installation step by step. Is this the order in which you approached inspection. The clutch carrier (housing) would be the last part removed and likely wouldn't be removed at all.

• Unbolt and remove the clutch cover.
• Remove the clutch disc.
• Remove the pressure plate.
• Remove the diaphragm spring and ring.
• Leave the clutch carrier bolted in place.
• Compare the dimensions of the replacement parts to the dimensions of the parts they replaced.

If the all the replacement carrier's dimensions are the same as the original, what you'll use is a tossup. You asserted that the original had "wear" marks. Post a photo showing them. The carrier should have a fiber stop disc installed on its shaft hub. daveson alluded to that. Did you find one on disassembly?
As far as the clutch nut is concerned, some people have reused them without incident. Whether the engine was never run after the installation could be irrelevant.

[Filmcamera]

• Unbolt and remove the clutch cover. - Done

• Remove the clutch disc. - done

• Remove the pressure plate. - done
  

• Remove the diaphragm spring and ring. - done

• Leave the clutch carrier bolted in place. - done

• Compare the dimensions of the replacement parts to the dimensions of the parts they replaced. - done, except for the new clutch carrier which I cannot easily compare with it in place.

The pictures I posted of the clutch assembly in the vice were the old clutch carrier with the original clutch cover and pressure plate (I have not replaced either) and the new clutch.  I measured the thickness of the new clutch and it is in spec as well as being the same size as the old clutch.
I have exhausted everything I can think of except the new clutch carrier being somehow the wrong one, that was why that was going to be my next step, however, before doing that I wanted to ask if it was OK to re-use the nut and also to see if the pictures I posted led to an "ah-ha" moment from any one of the many of you who know so very much more than I do about fixing bricks.

[Filmcamera]

Here are some pics of the clutch basket, I think the splines themselves are ok but there is some wear and discoloration on the collar.

[Laitch]

Compare the measurements of the depths, widths, perimeters and shaft lengths of the two clutch housings (baskets).

[lewisnort]

Are those rivets around the centre of the clutch basket visible on the engine side on all years and models?
I ask as I was having rear main problems and suspecting that the shim was missing but that section of my basket is smooth.

It really really didn't seem like a shim was on there but I definitely couldn't see those rivets, well not on the engine side at least.

Edit: I'm being stupid never mind

[Laitch]

Edit: I'm being stupid never mind

[Kaos]

Hold on insnt the Clutch-springplate facing the wrong way?


WhatsApp Image 2025-03-08 at 18.03.09_9e7aff69.jpg (36.91 kB . 432x576 - viewed 271 times)

Would explain the lack of resistance on the clutch when the pushrod's direction is installed correctly

Edit, I am not sure of the actual name which i will now be searching for

Edit 2:  DIAPHRAGM SPRING! is the name is was looking for, the bulging side should be facing out/backward

[Laitch]

Hold on insnt the Clutch-springplate facing the wrong way?
Edit 2:  DIAPHRAGM SPRING! is the name is was looking for, the bulging side should be facing out/backward

It looks to me like the "bulging" side is facing rearward but that curved surface can produce an optical illusion when viewed at a distance in a two-dimensional photo. Only Filmcamera can answer the question.

[Filmcamera]

Yes, the bulging side is facing out towards the rear of the bike.


Today I am going to finally have a chance to remove the clutch basket and compare it with the one I had before...

[Filmcamera]

It does seem the replacement clutch basket is subtly different to the old one.


 1. The new one seems to be marginally taller, maybe 1/2 a MM




2. The new one also seems to have a wider collar at the bottom just before the splines start.






I do not have an accurate way of measuring bu by eye there are differences.


Anyway, I am going to reinstall the ol done and see what happens.


Sadly that means waiting at least a month because try as I might I could not remove the o-ring without damaging it so I need to order a new one and wait for it to arrive before I can proceed.