Mystery electrical problem,help

[daveson]

There's a possibility that there are two separate problems.

I would hope a new battery wouldn't get that sad within two years. There might be a parasitic drain on the system. One simple and easy test is to check for a drain with the ignition off, using a multimeter. Set it to 20 volts, DC. Remove the battery negative lead from the battery negative post. Set the multimeter negative probe on the battery negative post, and the multimeter positive probe on the battery negative lead. It should read about 12 volts, this shows a drain on the battery, the clock, as shown in the photo. Now remove fuse three, which supplies power for the clock. The multimeter should now read zero volts, if it reads about 12 volts, there's a drain on the system.

Watchyagot?


IMG_20241023_120015.jpg (62.77 kB . 768x576 - viewed 314 times)

[Kaos]

Thing is, once is one too many. We as, I guess, a collective just want to ride out and not end up stranding in the middle of nowhere. Then this would have been an Aprilia forum.
But this does raise more questions. Because the amperage usage is quite constant from a fuel pump, which makes me question why it doesnt blow earlier in the ride. And one of the things i can think of that happens about an hour into the ride is the fan kicking in. Were there any electrical fixes done to the bike in the past?
Still I think your aftermarket pump uses more e-juice than it should.
My personal preference, and some may not agree, is to replace the [cheap] component that failed me once (being the  relay.

[Laitch]

We as, I guess, a collective just want to ride out and not end up stranding in the middle of nowhere. Then this would have been an Aprilia forum.

[Kchop]

Thank you for all the input. Tomorrow additional testing begins. I'll try method described above with the volt meter.
Yes, fuse 6. Gotta drive around my neighborhood like a madman for  a while..... 

No electrical fixes ... It's been pretty steady.

[Kchop]

 Hey group, first chance to finish testing today, that pesky job gets in the way...

Did as @Daveson suggested: meter>neg probe on neg terminal, pos probe on neg lead. Pulled fuse 3 and I get 0.21 read out.

Hooked up battery tender voltage readout to battery and taped leads to gas tank (keep in mind new battery and voltage regulator) never even got close to 13.7 at 2500rpm (like previously) Drove around for about an hour , pulled into garage , kept motor running and came out about 15 minutes later and bike was off and battery totally dead on restart attempt.

SO, I gotta think alternator at this point , NO?

[Kaos]

Hmm,
Maybe.

What i noticed reading back to the origin is, no-one has asked what your charge indicator does.
Do you have a charge indicator and what does it do (read in arny's voice)
When you left it running was it idling low rpm with all electrics on?

Somewhere along the line I still think its a combination of things.
Like usage vs charing.
Or not charging because your charge Indicator is faulty.
Could also be the alternator yes.
and for double checking, you have a 12v 40AH batt right? and does it freeze like minus 40 in your garage?

[frankenduck]

If the charge light bulb has failed then that can cause alternator issues. That's the first thing I'd check before spending money.

[frankenduck]

If the charge light bulb has failed then that can cause alternator issues. Does it come on when you turn the key to the first position? It should.