Author Topic: K75 fuel pump whack  (Read 15436 times)

Offline TriSpark

  • ^ Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 73
K75 fuel pump whack
« on: May 17, 2024, 02:51:22 PM »
I let my 1987 K75s sit for a year when it ran into a bad starter motor problem, which I fixed last week. Yes, I know it's not good to let them sit, but other projects got in the way and that's what happened. Anyway, now it turns over perfectly when the key is on and the start button is pressed.

But now it won't fire up and there's no fuel pump sound. I put in a new fuel pump from eBay, and still the same. No noise at all from the old pump or the new one when they are installed in the tank. However, on the bench they both buzz when 12V is applied, but no buzz when installed in the tank.

I removed the fuel sender from the bottom of the tank to check that for continuity. I know it can be a problem area. With a multimeter, I verified 12V coming from the 4 pin tank connector to it (green and brown wires), all the way through to the ring connectors that go on the + and - connections on the pump. I get a solid 12V there each time I press the starter button. Also checked the 7.5A fuse to the FI system is good.  But when the ring connectors are attached to the pump posts....nothing. Same on the old and new pumps.

I tried switching polarity on the pump posts to briefly spin it backwards to free it up, as suggested on some of the posts about fuel pumps here (yes, I did search that first) but no joy.

It was all working before I replaced the bad starter motor.  Did I miss something obvious ?   :idunno:

  • Chattanooga TN
  • Red 1987 K75s

Offline Lbxpdx

  • ^ Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 100
Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Reply #1 on: May 17, 2024, 03:12:34 PM »
I might check the grounds for the alternator, check the main ground under the tank, disassemble/clean the ignition switch and disassemble/clean the kill switch. 
  • Portland
  • 1994 K75S, 1992 K75RT, 1972 R60/5 & 1977 R100S

Offline Laitch

  • Faster than a speeding pullet
  • Administrator
  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 11404
Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Reply #2 on: May 17, 2024, 05:29:00 PM »
If the description of what you've done and the results is accurate, maybe one of the wires connecting the pump to the sender has a weakness hidden within the sheathing that opens the circuit when it's manipulated in a certain direction. I'd be wiggling those wires when they're energized to discover if the current drops out sometimes.
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles
Agree Agree x 1 View List

Offline bitsa

  • Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 36
Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Reply #3 on: May 17, 2024, 06:09:58 PM »
If the description of what you've done and the results is accurate, maybe one of the wires connecting the pump to the sender has a weakness hidden within the sheathing that opens the circuit when it's manipulated in a certain direction. I'd be wiggling those wires when they're energized to discover if the current drops out sometimes.

This is close to what I'm thinking. I reckon the connection is in fact bad (either at the plug, or within the wire) it's able to show 12v under a simple multimeter test but unable to carry enough current to operate the pump. I'd lay money on you being able to watch the voltage drop to zero if you connected a load to the ring terminals while measuring.
  • Manchester, UK
  • No longer Bricked up...

Offline TriSpark

  • ^ Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 73
Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Reply #4 on: May 18, 2024, 10:04:02 AM »
Thanks guys - I appreciate the suggestions. I will check the wiring from the sender again. I may ultimately have to get a new one I suspect, but will try the cheap solutions first. Bike has done 118K so it may just be worn out or maybe close to failing anyway.
  • Chattanooga TN
  • Red 1987 K75s

Offline pinhead

  • ^ Proficient Motobricker
  • Posts: 167
Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Reply #5 on: May 31, 2024, 05:06:02 PM »
When you say there is no fuel pump sound I assume you tried it when you were cranking the engine.  On these bikes, fuel pump only comes on when cranking or running.  The other thing that could be involved are the 2 fuel pump relays under the fuel tank.  Finally I would open up the air duct into your air cleaner and spray starting ether to get it started.  Do that a number of times to see if it will keep running on its own.  I  have a similar problem with my 85 krt100.  But my bike will start with ether and once it does will run fine until I shut it off.  Its intermittently on full bore, then when it stops, nothing.  I am going to take the filter and pump out.  I have seen that the fuel sender can cause these kind of problems..... 
  • sacramento, ca
  • 1985 RT 100

Offline frankenduck

  • Adrninistrator
  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 5514
Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Reply #6 on: May 31, 2024, 08:10:56 PM »
the 2 fuel pump relays under the fuel tank.

There only one relay for the fuel system. It powers the fuel pump, fuel injectors and thermo relay.
Once I had a Collie pup. Dug a hole and covered him up. Now I sit there by the hour. Waiting for a Collie-flower.
New to K bikes? Click here.
K Bike Maintenance & Mods: Click here.
Buy parts here.

Offline Bigtater

  • Curious
  • Posts: 4
Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Reply #7 on: June 01, 2024, 07:48:39 PM »
I recently encountered a similar situation. It turned out to be a bad fuel pump electrical connector, and a partially failed fuel injection relay. I would wiggle your positive and negative supply wires while backprobing the connector with a multimeter. I found that the positive would sometimes disappear while wiggling.  I would also recommend that you load test your wiring to the pump. I did this with a 4 amp headlight bulb. connect one side to supply positive and one to supply negative. If the bulb lights then you have proven the circuit is good up to the connector. Load testing helped me determine the fuel injection relay was partially failed. 
  • Virginia
  • 1990 K75

Offline stokester

  • ^ SuperNatural Motobricker
  • Posts: 847
Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Reply #8 on: June 01, 2024, 07:56:37 PM »
Load testing helped me determine the fuel injection relay was partially failed.
Good advice for many electrical issues.  Checking voltage under load will help diagnose poor connections and frayed wires.
  • Yorktown Virginia
  • '94 K75S Dakar Yellow - '93 K75S Seiden Blau - '91 R100RT Bermuda Blue- '78 R100S Smoke Red

Offline pinhead

  • ^ Proficient Motobricker
  • Posts: 167
Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Reply #9 on: June 02, 2024, 02:34:59 AM »
There only one relay for the fuel system. It powers the fuel pump, fuel injectors and thermo relay.
According to the diagram I used for my bike that matched there are 2 relays that control the fuel system.  I noticed on later diagrams for later k bikes there is one central relay that controls the whole fuel system including fuel injection and the pump.  The earlier design had 2 relays, either of which if failed would affect the pumps operation.  The diagram that had 2 relays for the fuel system matched what my bike had
  • sacramento, ca
  • 1985 RT 100

Offline pinhead

  • ^ Proficient Motobricker
  • Posts: 167
Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Reply #10 on: June 02, 2024, 02:56:04 AM »
There only one relay for the fuel system. It powers the fuel pump, fuel injectors and thermo relay.

On page 336 of my Clymer's K series bikes repair manual for K series  1985-1997 it indicates 2 relays for the fuel pump.    #5 is labeled as fuel pump relay 1,  number 7 is labeled fuel pump relay 2.  The layout diagram matched exactly the relays on my bike.  #7 bolts down to the frame.  The other one you just pull out the prongs. 
  • sacramento, ca
  • 1985 RT 100

Offline daveson

  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 1281
Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Reply #11 on: June 02, 2024, 05:16:29 AM »
Duck is right, the labels for that drawing are completely botched up. Number three in that drawing is the fuel relay.

Number five for example is the horn relay, remove it and all of a sudden the horn won't work.
  • Victoria, Australia
  • Current; '85 K100RT~100,000km; four other bricks. Past; Vulcan 1500, V Star 650, KLX 250(dirt bike) TT250(dirt bike)

Offline Laitch

  • Faster than a speeding pullet
  • Administrator
  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 11404
Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Reply #12 on: June 02, 2024, 06:05:06 AM »
One of the disappointing and irreconcilable circumstances arising when working on Bricks—or many other types of machinery—is discovering that manuals—like people—can sometimes be mistaken. Your experience right now, pinhead, is one of them.  We know our Bricks have a bulb testing device but it is missing from the list of that Clymer diagram. It's missing from the list because the Clymer manual has misidentified that device as fuel pump relay #2 and the error was not caught by the technical editor or compositor before the manual went to press. When an editorial error like this is caught after publication, the publisher usually prints what is called an Erratum correcting the error in all subsequent editions after the error's discovery. I don't know if that was done in this case, but there is nothing to be done to correct the manuals that had already been sold containing this error and are being consulted by folks like us today.


Images from MaxBMW's parts fiche:


Photo from James Sherlock, Ltd.:



If you look at the Clymers electrical schematic of the '85 Brick, you'll find only one component labeled as a fuel injection relay, also known as the "fuel pump relay." The struggle to understand wiring diagrams is eventually worthwhile and helps to verify information. It's also helpful to verify from other sources—manuals, diagrams, owners with reliable experience—when a significant discrepancy like this one comes to light. You've done that now.
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles

Offline frankenduck

  • Adrninistrator
  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 5514
Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Reply #13 on: June 02, 2024, 12:42:14 PM »

Once I had a Collie pup. Dug a hole and covered him up. Now I sit there by the hour. Waiting for a Collie-flower.
New to K bikes? Click here.
K Bike Maintenance & Mods: Click here.
Buy parts here.

Offline frankenduck

  • Adrninistrator
  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 5514
Once I had a Collie pup. Dug a hole and covered him up. Now I sit there by the hour. Waiting for a Collie-flower.
New to K bikes? Click here.
K Bike Maintenance & Mods: Click here.
Buy parts here.

Offline pinhead

  • ^ Proficient Motobricker
  • Posts: 167
Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Reply #15 on: June 02, 2024, 03:20:00 PM »
Thanks for the clarifications.  I use the Clymers manual for the most part, its easier to understand than the Haynes manual and more thorough.  I thought it strange that the fuel pump had 2 relays but I kind of rationalized it away thinking one was for the fuel injection and the other for the pump with the one for the injection being a master to the pump one so that if the master fails neither the pump nor the the injection system would be activated.  Regarding wiring diagrams, both my Haynes and Clymers show only a fuel injection relay, no relay specific for fuel pump.   
  • sacramento, ca
  • 1985 RT 100

Offline TriSpark

  • ^ Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 73
Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Reply #16 on: October 15, 2025, 03:07:01 PM »
Revisiting this old thread, I now have a working fuel pump. The bad unit was a Quantum, and it had seized up. I ditched it and got a Kemso 14304 from Amazon, which works fine and hums when switched on as it should.

I also bought a replacement fuel gauge sender from EME at great expense, and installed that.

With new EFI and Starter relays installed, the bike now turns over at the press of the starter button normally again, and I have nice fat sparks at all 3 plugs. There's fuel in the fuel rail at the injectors, but it still won't fire and run, even with starting fluid. I checked the under tank 4 way plug to the EFI relay and injectors, and there is continuity.

As it had been sitting for a long time, I tried the Chris Harris fix of adding 10cc's of oil to each cylinder before starting, but still nothing.

Any suggestions from the hive mind what I should check next? 
  • Chattanooga TN
  • Red 1987 K75s

Offline Laitch

  • Faster than a speeding pullet
  • Administrator
  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 11404
Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Reply #17 on: October 15, 2025, 04:13:18 PM »
What do you mean by "switched on"—when the ignition key is in the On position? If that's what you mean, something is wrong right there.
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles

Offline TriSpark

  • ^ Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 73
Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Reply #18 on: October 15, 2025, 07:11:24 PM »
What do you mean by "switched on"—when the ignition key is in the On position? If that's what you mean, something is wrong right there.

Thanks Laitch.

Yes, when I turn the ignition key and before pressing the start button. What should it do when working correctly? All my K bikes have made a hum from the fuel pump at this point as they pressurize the fuel lines before they start, right?
  • Chattanooga TN
  • Red 1987 K75s

Offline Laitch

  • Faster than a speeding pullet
  • Administrator
  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 11404
Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Reply #19 on: October 15, 2025, 07:40:09 PM »
All your other Bricks made a hum from the fuel pump before the button was pressed if they were K1, K100RS4V (1990–'92) or K1100 models. 2V Bricks don't do that; they have a different engine control system than those.
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles

Offline TriSpark

  • ^ Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 73
Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Reply #20 on: October 15, 2025, 09:15:13 PM »
So, no hum is good on the 2V bricks ? I'll go back and recheck my wiring, then.
  • Chattanooga TN
  • Red 1987 K75s

Offline Laitch

  • Faster than a speeding pullet
  • Administrator
  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 11404
Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Reply #21 on: October 16, 2025, 10:42:42 AM »
It's clear to me you know you're way around engines. It looks like you had switch problems in the past and maybe you installed a substitute component and wired the pump directly to it. Originally, the pump got its feed from the fuel pump relay. That acts as a safety feature to stop the flow of fuel in a crash if the power feed remains on, because power to the pump relies on a signal from the Hall sensors processed during crankshaft rotation and sent to the fuel injection relay. If the pump is creating pressure the way it's wired now, it's unlikely to be the root of this malfunction.
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles

Offline TriSpark

  • ^ Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 73
Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Reply #22 on: October 16, 2025, 03:00:46 PM »
Yes, I followed the standard wiring diagram and replaced every damaged piece of wiring with new ones of the correct color and gauge, and checked all the connectors were also the right gauge and well crimped too. I'm not a special builder - I like stock, and don't believe I can improve on what BMW came up with originally. The fuel pump is wired as standard, and the 4 pin tank connector that is known for problems is standard too. Checked continuity on all these areas with my multimeter and it came up OK. 

I think I said in an earlier post I replaced the frazzled Bosch start relay with a Bosch unit, and the 3 melted positive wires from the battery. Nothing below the junction box and battery has been touched, and the bike was running perfectly before this all started.

So, today I put the original 5 pin FI relay back in, and don't have the fuel pump hum now until I press the starter button. Still no engine starting though. Mucho weirdness !
  • Chattanooga TN
  • Red 1987 K75s

Offline Laitch

  • Faster than a speeding pullet
  • Administrator
  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 11404
Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Reply #23 on: October 16, 2025, 04:36:51 PM »
Still no engine starting though. Mucho weirdness !
Sometimes, just using the correct relay isn't enough.  177381
A neglected Brick under restoration that won't start is not weird; it's one of the most common occurrences here.  :laughing4-giggles: Some of the usual suspects are:
  • Dirty/loose ground connections or oxidized/loose electrical connectors.
  • A malfunctioning coolant temperature sensor indicating to the control system that the engine is warm when it is cold. Easily tested for function.
  • Leaking intake manifolds and/or crankcase z-tubes that allow unmetered air into the intake system.
  • Clogged air filters.
  • Injectors that aren't getting the signal to start pulsing.
  • The vane in the airflow meter stuck.
  • Clogged fuel filters and collapsing in-tank fuel hoses or tank hoses that aren't clamped sufficiently.
Are the spark plugs wet or dry after starting attempts?
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles

Offline TriSpark

  • ^ Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 73
Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Reply #24 on: October 18, 2025, 09:53:00 PM »
Thanks for the useful check list Laitch. I'll work through those and report back.

I have wet plugs after I try to start the bike and a weird odor from the exhaust afterwards, not unburnt gas but something funky I cant really describe.

I put in new fuel hoses and a new Napa fuel filter, with the flow direction arrow aligned correctly. The air filter is a K&N I cleaned a few thousand miles ago.

Now to check the other items on the list.
  • Chattanooga TN
  • Red 1987 K75s

Tags: