Can K100 run without the guage cluster?

[alkay191]

Hey all.
I'm stripping down a "gently dropped" K100RS into a Caferacer/Strretfighter type toy and would like to get rid of stock gages and run an auto tach and maybe a bicycle speedo.
Does anyone have any experience with this kind of modification?

[frankenduck]

Once you remove the cluster, it will  not start in neutral because all of that circuitry is in the cluster.  You'll need to pull the clutch in to start it.

With a set of three relays in series you could emulate how the gear position indicator works so that it starts in neutral without the factory cluster.

[alkay191]

Awesome fast reply, thank you !!!
So the bike will start and run in any gear as long as the clutch pulled in ?
Should I block or jump any of the unplugged connections?

[frankenduck]

Yes, as long as your clutch switch is still working.  (They do wear out.)

More here: Instrument Cluster Pinouts & Wire Colors         

[ekdave]

question re clutch switch ,,
how does it function i removed cluster on my 85 k100 but the clutch switch is not working is it a simple contact switch ?
also looking at control there is only 1 lead coming from that area which i thought may have been the choke switch ,, maybe some one could post a pic of the left bar control  unless the cable supplies both functions

thanks
David

[TrueAce]

Check out the interactive wiring diagram in the Liebrary. One important tip I got from RG, I think, is that with no dash alternator light, the alternator will not charge the battery......so you have to emulate a 12v circuit lightor install resistors. Terrible explanation, but it's enough to get you to research it!

[rbm]

question re clutch switch ,,
how does it function i removed cluster on my 85 k100 but the clutch switch is not working is it a simple contact switch ?

It's a simple switch, single pole, momentary contact pushbutton, normally closed.  There is one cable coming off the switch from the left control and connects to the harness under the tank on the left side.  When the clutch is engaged, the switch is pushed in and contact broken.  When the clutch handle is pulled to disengage the clutch, the switch contacts and +12V is fed to the start switch.

[ekdave]

ok thanks guys trueace didnt think about exciting the alternator.

rbm thats what i thought i tried shorting the plug with a wire and not luck i did notice another 2 pin plug that was free when i plugged into that it allowed me to start it without the clutch operated ?  so will have to research it a little more with multi meter .

thanks David

[Laitch]

Here's a thread to read while you're resting, David. It has a couple of possible solutions for you.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7568.msg52783.html#msg52783

[rbm]

There are two plugs on that side of the harness under the tank which are the same form-factor.  One is for the clutch switch, the other for the heated grips.  It is easy to mix them up.  The heated grip plug is labelled in German as such, normally.  It's possible that you got the plugs mixed up.   Always check the wire colour when plugging stuff into the harness.  The colours usually match.

[Inge K.]

There are two plugs on that side of the harness under the tank which are the same form-factor.  One is for the clutch switch, the other for the heated grips.  It is easy to mix them up.

The connectors for the clutch switch and the switch for the choke on warning lamp is identical as the
same switch is used for both (also used for brake light switch(es) on early models).......easily mixed.

These connectors have round pins, the connector for the heated grips have flat pins (arranged like a T)
rather difficult to mix those.

[ekdave]

thanks Guys got it sorted it was originally plugged to the lead labeled choke , plugged into other socket enabled it to crank but all the time
i removed the switch cleaned and tested it .. with button not pressed a closed circuit, with button depressed no circuit .. re installed switch and it works as it should i can only assume  1. it was plugged into wrong socket which is why chock light was on in original gauge and 2. it wasn't screwed in fully so was open circuit all the time ill post a few pic as they may help other in the future ,,

now onto exciting alt and getting a neutral light function on gauge or independent lcd .. :-(

thanks again David