TPS adjustment on 4v / 93 K11RS

[E30_Crazy]

Was following the 4v TPS adjustment found here, posted by Frankenduck I believe. Wasn't getting the 12v LED or the cluster temp light to come on at idle without pressing down on the throttle linkage. Just a little bit of finger pressure gave desired results. Decided I would adjust the TPS just a bit to bring the light(s) on at idle, and off just at opening throttle.

I loosened the two bolts, and was never able to get the light(s) to come on at any position... Completely removed TPS, cleaned the connectors, cleaned the plug (not that there was anything in there to begin with). Pins are in good shape, plug-side is tight, should be making good contact.

Tried seeing if there was a difference in running without the TPS plugged in (might be getting confused with the switch type / 2v TPS). Without, it wouldn't run except for idle (although didn't try WOT) so running without isn't an option (again, probably just a 2v thing)

In the end, I put it back together near where it was prior. Then let the bike warm up and basically rough tune it back to idle correctly, and not spit and sputter with revs, and return to idle reliably.

I did find another thread talking about the resistances between certain pins at certain throttle rotation. But this was more so just guess work by feel, going by 1/4 throttle, 1/2 throttle, etc. without setting up a stationary piece of paper on the bars with marks for the amount of throttle, and an indicator on the throttle itself. I was getting similar results to these / his numbers if it means anything.

So, now I'm wondering if the TPS is *just bad enough* to not give me the light test results (since it still runs better with the TPS installed) or if I need to chase something else? The diagnostic plug and/or wiring?

EDIT
Frankenducks post covers the voltage readout procedure, not the LED/temp light procedure. I did not try the voltage method. I'll need the wife's extra hands during the kids naptime, or go get some more / better leads for the meter, and put a gator clip on the wire I'm using to ground the diagnostic plug.

[Laitch]

You aren't trying to set the throttle position sensor with the engine running, are you?

[E30_Crazy]

Originally, no. But after being unable to get a readout on the 12v LED or temp light, and setting it close to previous, I did have it running to make sure it idled and rev'd at least somewhat correctly.

[volador]

To supplement the Duck's thread you possibly seen this thread http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,13180.msg117325.html#msg117325

[Scott_]

E30, what is/was your original condition that gave you cause to check the TPS in the 1st place.... rough running?
When was the last time the Heat Sink Paste was refreshed on the Ignition Amplifier module.

[E30_Crazy]

E30, what is/was your original condition that gave you cause to check the TPS in the 1st place.... rough running?
When was the last time the Heat Sink Paste was refreshed on the Ignition Amplifier module.

Not necessarily "rough" but I would get a little bit of idle hunting/surging coming to a stop or off RPM. Also, I had only ever dealt with the 2v style switch, whether on my other bike (K100) or on my '87 325i, using the "click method" if you will. The K1100 switch had never been verified, and just by checking it, I wasn't getting the desired results (dash temp light or LED not on with throttle at idle)

As far as the heat sink, no idea. Not done by me in the last year. I'll have to look that one up.