Author Topic: new handlebar - lowering the forks (Read 6682 times)

arne · « **on:** July 15, 2019, 07:05:04 PM »

Trying to mount back original handlebars on Gertrude, my K75... After removing the cafe racer style strap-ons handlebars and un-mounting the commands I realized that I didn't have enough room to insert the OG handlebars: the fork arms had been raised/front end lowered by the previous owner...

I now need to lower back the forks.
I am a complete noob and have some questions before starting the operation:

First, I need to lift the front enough to push back the fork arms.
Browsing around the forum, I found out that the best solution for me is to put Gertrude on the center stand and use an hydraulic jack to lift the front. Will use a piece of wood in between to protect her and gain in stability...
Second I need to slide the arms down - Thinking about unscrewing the arms from the clamp and hammering gently the top of the arms down using a soft hammer and a piece of wood too... Is it the right way?
Third, what is the original position of the fork arms in the clamp (can't find any pics...)? At the clamp level or slightly raised?

Thanks for reading and sorry for the bad english

caveman · « **Reply #1 on:** July 16, 2019, 06:55:52 AM »

Just loosen the pinch bolts on the steering stem and you should be able to grab the upper fork tube and gently twist and pull down. Work both sides down a little at a time, no hammer required! You may want to loosen the axle pinch bolts as well and re set the axle by bouncing front end down with the front brake.

natalena · « **Reply #2 on:** July 16, 2019, 07:36:04 AM »

As Caveman says, and the tops of the tubes will be level with the top triple clamp. The black plastic covers extend a bit above the clamps. Great advice on being sure the axle is not torqued, as shimmy may result. Personally, I try not to hit any parts that have bearings involved (triple tree), and use a clamp to press out a tight fit, or use penetrating oil to slide out.
When done, you'll have about a 1/2cm of space between the tube plastic cap and the bottom of the handlebar.
* sidebar: how big were your 'strap-ons', just curious?

johnny · « **Reply #3 on:** July 16, 2019, 07:41:24 AM »

greetings...

removing the cafe racer style strap-ons handlebars...

ha ha ha...

at least he didnt getts far enough into the cafe bastardization that you need to reloop the deloop...

j o

Soggz · « **Reply #4 on:** July 16, 2019, 08:46:21 AM »

Bloody Hell!.. A working clock!

arne · « **Reply #5 on:** July 16, 2019, 03:55:04 PM »

Thank you so much for the help in this de-bastardization process guys! Will keep you updated

Quote from: natalena on July 16, 2019, 07:36:04 AM

* sidebar: how big were your 'strap-ons', just curious?

I have no clue about their bigness, have nothing to compare with... but they were f*****g low! was a bit scary to bring it home in this crazy body position

Soggz · « **Reply #6 on:** July 17, 2019, 02:53:28 AM »

Quote from: arne on July 16, 2019, 03:55:04 PM

Thank you so much for the help in this de-bastardization process guys! Will keep you updated
I have no clue about their bigness, have nothing to compare with... but they were f*****g low! was a bit scary to bring it home in this crazy body position

Hi. Did it have rearsets on?

billday · « **Reply #7 on:** July 17, 2019, 07:00:16 AM »

Thank you for your service (un-trashing a perfectly good motobrick).

Laitch · « **Reply #8 on:** July 17, 2019, 09:17:24 AM »

Quote from: arne on July 16, 2019, 03:55:04 PM

. . . was a bit scary to bring it home in this crazy body position

Bringing it home is what strap-ons are all about. Good luck with your restoration.

arne · « **Reply #9 on:** July 18, 2019, 03:17:53 PM »

...so I took half of the afternoon off yesterday to work on the forks thinking I could ride later in the evening... Got the jack and some piece of wood, lifted the front and started to remove the bracket of the Ducati headlight that was on the way. First screw was ok, second was drilled, I insisted a bit too much and drilled it more... Now I am stuck with these cheap soft screws, they are concave and hard to grab with a plier. Don't know what to do.

Soggz · « **Reply #10 on:** July 18, 2019, 03:24:09 PM »

Grinder

johnny · « **Reply #11 on:** July 18, 2019, 03:27:41 PM »

greetings...

when i was racing for the ducati factory team all the engineers as well as the ridors were issued a ducati red special titan tool kit...

you need one of these...

j o

Laitch · « **Reply #12 on:** July 18, 2019, 03:41:45 PM »

Quote from: arne on July 18, 2019, 03:17:53 PM

Now I am stuck with these cheap soft screws, they are concave and hard to grab with a plier. Don't know what to do.

Actually, the screw heads are convex, not concave.

On stubborn screws and bolts, use of a heat gun on the screw followed by a spray of penetrant like Liquid Wrench, a couple of knocks on the screw head with a hammer then a few minutes meditation time will usually result in successful removal when it is attempted afterwards. Right now, you can use that method on the remaining screw but after you heat it, drive a torx bit into its opening, let it cool then wind out the screw; otherwise; the more drastic measures of filing or grinding might need to be undertaken.

billday · « **Reply #13 on:** July 18, 2019, 03:50:24 PM »

Use the cutting wheel on your Dremel to cut a slot for a nice fat straight blade screwdriver.

Or, use the cutting wheel on your Dremel to grind flats out of the round shoulder on opposite sides, then grab it with a Vice Grips.

Laitch · « **Reply #14 on:** July 18, 2019, 03:59:26 PM »

Your options are multiplying here like titan wrenches, arne. Press on!

arne · « **Reply #15 on:** July 18, 2019, 04:16:06 PM »

Thanks so much guys!

Quote

Actually, the screw heads are convex, not concave.

put this on my dyslexia

Gonna go first with hammering a Torx in the screw after heating it + Liquid Wrench and see. Will grind it if I can't make it.

btw, are the Titan much better than say my husky ones?

natalena · « **Reply #16 on:** July 18, 2019, 05:51:30 PM »

Personally, I find the Dremel screw slot very scintillating and ends well ... usually have a smoke afterwards.
Second choice would be the rougher method of screw extractor use, but since you already have the holes started, it may be easier.
* Brace your hand when Dremeling, as the cutting disc can scamper away, often into the wires.

natalena · « **Reply #17 on:** July 18, 2019, 05:53:20 PM »

Quote from: johnny on July 18, 2019, 03:27:41 PM

when i was racing for the ducati factory team all the engineers as well as the ridors were issued a ducati red special titan tool kit...

Fake News! Those aren't metric ;) And, yes, Husky's are fine for wenches, unless picked up late at night. Spelling adjusted for dyslexia. :)

Laitch · « **Reply #18 on:** July 18, 2019, 06:00:25 PM »

Quote from: natalena on July 18, 2019, 05:51:30 PM

when Dremeling . . . the cutting disc can scamper away. . ..

Where've them goldurn Dremels scampered off to now, Hazel?

arne · « **Reply #19 on:** July 22, 2019, 07:16:11 PM »

Failed miserably at removing the screw, used a Dremel to cut a new notch in it, still couldn't unscrew it with a screwdriver (too tight) then tried to deepen the notch and fucked it up completely... "Bravo!"

Laitch · « **Reply #20 on:** July 22, 2019, 07:59:33 PM »

Quote from: arne on July 22, 2019, 07:16:11 PM

Failed miserably at removing the screw, used a Dremel to cut a new notch in it, still couldn't unscrew it with a screwdriver (too tight) then tried to deepen the notch and fucked it up completely... "Bravo!"

Time for the grinder! :yippee:

Soggz · « **Reply #21 on:** July 23, 2019, 03:02:42 AM »

I did say use a grinder, quite a few posts ago! Just replace the bolts! It’s sooo much easier!

Soggz · « **Reply #22 on:** July 23, 2019, 03:05:10 AM »

Or use mole grips. I guess you might call them vice clamps/pliers, or something.

News:

Author Topic: new handlebar - lowering the forks (Read 6682 times)