Author Topic: This Is The EPIC Soggs 92K75 MAGA Thread (Read 178784 times)

Soggz · « **Reply #175 on:** January 17, 2019, 11:41:05 AM »

Quote from: szabgab on January 17, 2019, 05:13:30 AM

Yep, just like you. I had also some alternator issues, some electronic glitches, cracked big elbow on the manifold, broken air collector box, crappy brakes and other bits and bobs I do not remember anymore. If I look back, since I have owned this bike, I have spent more time underneath it in oily overalls, than sitting on it but it is starting to shape now.

Someone else might chime in on this, but in my opinion you should probably worry about the driveshaft first as the final drive splines look to me in somewhat better shape. If you are like myself - riding the bike for 2-3-4000 miles a year and will probably sell the bike in the next five or so years you are - again in my opinion - not putting in enough miles to chew up a new driveshaft with the worn final drive shaft. Just make sure, you lube the hell out of that joint and do it regularly, even every year or so and you should be good...

Yes. I will certainly be saving up for the rear end of it first. The rest of the bike isn’t too bad, to be honest. Cosmetically, it’s a bit of a challenge, but nothing I can’t handle. Mechanically...it’s getting there...slowly!

DavidATL · « **Reply #176 on:** January 17, 2019, 12:37:33 PM »

PS re Moly powder and drive shaft splines: After putting on new grease, I 'season' the splines with a dash of moly powder. It's like magic fairy dust for metal-to-metal sliding surfaces just like these.

Soggz · « **Reply #177 on:** January 17, 2019, 01:46:03 PM »

I have a friend that builds choppers and stuff. He says , if I get it, he can weld new splines on for me.

Soggz · « **Reply #178 on:** January 17, 2019, 01:46:43 PM »

Soggz · « **Reply #179 on:** January 17, 2019, 03:05:28 PM »

Quote from: johnny on January 17, 2019, 02:37:01 PM

greetings...

i have seen something like that before... they were pinned welded balanced... was from a r bike guru outta near chicago... was known for his bing carb kits and his spline kits... he is no longer with us...

j o

This will be done by my friend who acquired his fabulous engineering skill from his father, who was a famed hot rod builder in England. He was a very clever man who had a fully restored ‘34coupe among other cars like a rodded pop. Craig, (his son), is , at the moment building up a model T Ford that he had imported from Texas (I think), And is building a 70’s style chopper using a Harley 1200 motor.

szabgab · « **Reply #180 on:** January 17, 2019, 03:09:40 PM »

Quote from: Soggz on January 17, 2019, 01:46:43 PM

This

Yes, this is the one, I was talking about. If you have somebody to do it for you for a few pints, this is a really good deal. Do not forget to check the u-joint for notchiness and the other side of the shaft for wear ;)

Soggz · « **Reply #181 on:** January 17, 2019, 03:27:28 PM »

Yes, thank you. I will take the shaft out in good time, to check.The guy who is going to do it for me is currently building this, so he knows what he’s on about.A before and during, pic...

Soggz · « **Reply #182 on:** January 17, 2019, 03:29:29 PM »

Laitch · « **Reply #183 on:** January 17, 2019, 05:02:26 PM »

Quote from: Soggz on January 17, 2019, 03:27:28 PM

. . . so he knows what he’s on about.A before and during, pic...

Getting rid of the meat rack and the bidet then installing a comfortable seat was a good move. The red is a nice color, too. :giggles

Soggz · « **Reply #184 on:** January 17, 2019, 05:16:04 PM »

Quote from: Laitch on January 17, 2019, 05:02:26 PM

Getting rid of the meat rack and the bidet then installing a comfortable seat was a good move. The red is a nice color, too. :giggles

It took a lot of work getting it back to standard.

Chaos · « **Reply #185 on:** January 17, 2019, 05:53:59 PM »

Quote from: Soggz on January 17, 2019, 05:16:04 PM

It took a lot of work getting it back to standard.

he has a future cut out for him.

Soggz · « **Reply #186 on:** January 17, 2019, 11:46:37 PM »

Quote from: szabgab on January 17, 2019, 05:13:30 AM

Yep, just like you. I had also some alternator issues, some electronic glitches, cracked big elbow on the manifold, broken air collector box, crappy brakes and other bits and bobs I do not remember anymore. If I look back, since I have owned this bike, I have spent more time underneath it in oily overalls, than sitting on it but it is starting to shape now.

Someone else might chime in on this, but in my opinion you should probably worry about the driveshaft first as the final drive splines look to me in somewhat better shape. If you are like myself - riding the bike for 2-3-4000 miles a year and will probably sell the bike in the next five or so years you are - again in my opinion - not putting in enough miles to chew up a new driveshaft with the worn final drive shaft. Just make sure, you lube the hell out of that joint and do it regularly, even every year or so and you should be good...

I have found a site with final drives for drum models for £150.00.

Soggz · « **Reply #187 on:** January 17, 2019, 11:50:10 PM »

Quote from: Chaos on January 17, 2019, 05:53:59 PM

he has a future cut out for him.

He has been doing this sort of thing for a number of years now? Clever bloke.

szabgab · « **Reply #188 on:** January 18, 2019, 03:05:03 AM »

Quote from: Soggz on January 17, 2019, 11:50:10 PM

He has been doing this sort of thing for a number of years now. I can remember when he first started as an apprentice engineer at the book printing company we used to work at.

Oh, if he is good, may I send my damaged shaft to get a new socket welded on? :) Joking aside I was searching for somebody to weld one on, if I buy it, but people with some welding skills will not take on a job like that, as they would cock it up. I am not sure, how much in balance the weld must be, but your man looks to be competent enough...

Soggz · « **Reply #189 on:** January 18, 2019, 06:02:33 AM »

I’ll let you know. I can’t order the bit yet, as I havnt seen the state of the other end of it. I may try and get the shaft out this weekend. How do you do it? Does it just pull out?

rbm · « **Reply #190 on:** January 18, 2019, 07:04:03 AM »

Yes, pull straight out. Grab the exposed part of the drive shaft using a locking plier (vice-grip or similar) and with the help of a rubber mallet, strike the face of the plier. It may take a couple strikes. The shock will release the cir clip that secures the output shaft end of the drive shaft to the output shaft of the transmission. Most probably the splines on that end will be OK since the drive shaft is prevented from sliding by the cir clip.

You asked earlier where all the lubrication went on the final drive end of the drive shaft; why did it disappear. Grease consists of active lubricating chemical (eg. molybdenum) suspended in a carrier like a wax or paste. When put back into operation after lubricating, the rotation of the drive shaft causes the carrier to be thrown outwards due to pressure of the spline faces rubbing against each other and centripetal force of the rotation. That action happens in the first few hundred kilometres of use. With the paste goes the active lubricant. That means normal lubricants like lithium or graphite work NOT fair well in this application because of the way they work. Molybdenum works by integrating and bonding with the metal. The longer it remains on the part, the more of the moly adheres to the metal. If you can prevent or slow down the displacement of the carrier, the greater chance you have of keeping the joint lubricated for the life of the moly. Tricks used to accomplish this are to select a moly lube with a large concentration of lubricant, >60% is recommended by BMW and owners/mechanics. Another trick is to mix the moly lube with Wurth SIG-3000 (a very heavy bodied sticky carrier) 50:50. The SIG-3000 slows the carrier displacement for a very long time. Another trick is to close off the open end of the drive shaft at the final drive end. This retains the lubricant, preventing the carrier from migrating very far away from the splines.

If you want to understand why the splines wear the way that they do, read this article: http://www.largiader.com/paralever/

szabgab · « **Reply #191 on:** January 18, 2019, 07:35:49 AM »

Quote from: rbm on January 18, 2019, 07:04:03 AM

Yes, pull straight out. Grab the exposed part of the drive shaft using a locking plier (vice-grip or similar) and with the help of a rubber mallet, strike the face of the plier. It may take a couple strikes. The shock will release the cir clip that secures the output shaft end of the drive shaft to the output shaft of the transmission. Most probably the splines on that end will be OK since the drive shaft is prevented from sliding by the cir clip.

In addition to what Robert said, if you have trouble hitting the vice-grip, or if it slids off too readily, you can leverage the tool against the end of the swingarm, however you should use something in between the mating surface of the swing arm and the vice-grip, like a thin edged wood piece, otherwise the mating surface gets damaged very easily with the foreseeable effect, that causes. Also upon removal (and replacement) try to have the swingarm as straight as possible, otherwise you might be hitting the shaft multiple times just to realise, it has been freed long time ago and you are banging the bent u joint against the edge of the swing arm tunnel. Please do not ask me, how I know this :)) Upon replacement make the swingarm straight, u-joint straight, wiggle the shaft back to it's position and hit the face with a rubber mallet. It clips on easily, so no HE-man tactics are necessary...

rbm · « **Reply #192 on:** January 18, 2019, 07:40:28 AM »

Good observations, szabgab. I forgot to mention those things because they are second-nature to me.

Soggz · « **Reply #193 on:** January 18, 2019, 11:29:09 AM »

Thanks you two chaps!
I may have a go this week end. My injectors came back today, so I put them in. Still quite difficult to start!
I also notice the choke dosnt seem to work as it should. I’m wondering if it’s somehow ‘sticking’.
It’s not the cable, as I can see that operating ok, but it’s troublesome to start and keep running. Once it is running, it seems ok, but if you put the choke on, it seems to take a while for it to rev up to around 4/5k, then taking the choke off, it takes longer than normal to drop back down.
Something inside sticking, perhaps?

rbm · « **Reply #194 on:** January 18, 2019, 11:57:11 AM »

Have you checked the operation of the MAF? It's the unit sitting just behind the TBs, connected to the air filter box and the air accumulator. If the barn door is sticking, it might cause these symptoms.

Soggz · « **Reply #195 on:** January 18, 2019, 11:59:46 AM »

Not sure I understand why the end splines are made of cheese on these bmw’s. My Honda CX500 splines are like brand new and 4 years older!

Soggz · « **Reply #196 on:** January 18, 2019, 12:01:17 PM »

Quote from: rbm on January 18, 2019, 11:57:11 AM

Have you checked the operation of the MAF? It's the unit sitting just behind the TBs, connected to the air filter box and the air accumulator. If the barn door is sticking, it might cause these symptoms.

sorry...mad?

Soggz · « **Reply #197 on:** January 18, 2019, 12:03:46 PM »

Lol, I mean maf... not ‘ mad’, like I’m going...

szabgab · « **Reply #198 on:** January 18, 2019, 01:02:26 PM »

Quote from: Soggz on January 18, 2019, 12:03:46 PM

Lol, I mean maf... not ‘ mad’, like I’m going...

:D Mass airflow sensor, in order to access it you will have to remove some parts, like the tank, etc. Be careful when you try remove the top of the airbox, the big rubber elbow can go brittle and if you tug it hard enough it might crack. Mine was in tatters and I am not sure, if it was me being a dick or age deterioration, most probably both :)

There are two hose clamps on that elbow, no need to remove the one closer to the airbox, only the other one, so you can remove the elbow and airbox as one unit. The other hoseclamp is securing the mouth of the MAF to the airbox.

If cleaning the sensor try not to go all crazy on the thing, the sensor element is sensitive. I have cleaned mine with contact cleaner, even though carb cleaner would have been more thorough.

Hard starting could be many other things as well, I had air leaks, oxidised contacts, weak battery and a failing fuel pump combined with a clogged up fuel filter, since I have got ridden most of those problems, the bike is a joy to start (especially since having 10W40 semi-synth in the engine)

Soggz · « **Reply #199 on:** January 18, 2019, 01:07:30 PM »

Ah, ok, I know what you mean, as I’ve had the top of the box off to put a new filter in. The silver thing that looks like a waffle maker! Lol.

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Author Topic: This Is The EPIC Soggs 92K75 MAGA Thread (Read 178784 times)