hi all :D
started a new topic here as I did not find this info anywhere else.
If need be the modfs can merge this with some other thread - do as you wish, I just wanted this info to stand out a bit.
On Sat evening I finally got to replacing the squirting seals on my 93 k11lt - still had the original seals in it! 24 years no wonder it leaked like crazy...
And put gaiters on - finally looks the business :D
I have done this job numerous times on my bikes and for my customers and reckon if youre concentrated on the task this should take no more than 1,5h if youre not in hurry. BUT there is one stupid problem namely the bloody circlip issue. After cursing for half an hour I finally made myself a tool out of an old TTiger spoke and got the first f..ker out - thesecond gave up in a mere minute.
BEFORE you put these back in gring the ends a bit - this will save all the hassle in the future OR if you have more time than I had do some research and order yourself a pair of proper Seger rings - there is plenty of room to have those instead of these shitty italian stuff...
ALSO - if you do not like to spend stupid money for the parts do some research and find a technical sealing stockist somewhere in your area - the dimensions are in the photo below... Always quote the rubber is to seal a SLIDING part and not a turning one as the construction of the seal is different.
If those of you across the pond have difficulties finding proper metric seals I can actually send a batch to US no problem. They are like 1.5$ a piece so go figure. It is a proper tech grade NBR - I did some heavy testing on potholes in my area and they hold the oil in no problem.
The original /or Athena/ seals are more than 30$ in my country.
Going like that I also found a VERY experienced workshop to have my clutch relined. Relining 25$ - original 120$ :D It will be 50$ if I choose to have kevlar liners.... So you get the idea about prices.
Hope this info will be useful and will save someone unnecessary expense.
best regards
matjas
