87' k100.. what is this thing on my crank sprocket?

[BENSPEN]

hello guys, Im having a huge dilemma here and would greatly appreciate some guidance, Some of you may remember my turbo cafe project, its had an issue where it runs, gets warm then dies with no re firing. I pulled my timing cover today to swap my hall sensor and fix an oil leak, when i pulled it off i found a piece of tape wrapped around my crank timing points bucket thing. they werent all wrapped up, i just took them out thank god, ive only logged 8 miles because of the issue so im not worried about it, but what I am worried about is the oil seal behind my crank bucket that is torn in 2 places (pictured). I would also like to note that my hall sensor was a bit oily leading me to beleive that oil was in the hall cover, could that cause my electronic timing issues? also there is some timing chain slack on the top when its off, is this normal because of the hydro tensioner?


Thanks alot for any contributions guys


thanks again, Ben

[BENSPEN]

alright, im pretty sure its a seal to keep the hall sensor box dry, but why would it rip, is it in the right spot? is there any special installation that i neglected?


 thanks again

[BENSPEN]

oh jeez, i screwed im pretty sure i completely severed that seal by removing the timing chain cover without removing the hall sensor cup..... confirmation would be appreciated,


newb move

[Scott_]

Yea, pretty much. The seal is mounted in the cover.

[BENSPEN]

Alright so my last confusion,if the seal is mounted in the cover, do you have to remount it onto the shaft every time you take off the timing cover? I thought that was very hard to do

[rbm]

No, it's very easy to unmount and remount the timing cover even with this seal.  The inner part of the seal is a flexible membrane that forms around the shaft.  The lip of the seal faces inwards so the tricky part is to keep the seal in shape while replacing the cover.  This is accomplished by using a pill box as a guide.  Slip the pill box over the shaft, replace the cover making sure to ease the lip of the seal over the pill box, and withdraw the pill box when in place.  More details in this Reference discussion

[kris]

Benspen, the following is not a technical contribution...but from the tone of your emails maybe it's time to step back for a bit and unwind. It's only a motorbike...and things don't get better when you're wound up. Give it a rest and go back with a fresh attitude. All these things can be worked out.

[BENSPEN]

No, it's very easy to unmount and remount the timing cover even with this seal.  The inner part of the seal is a flexible membrane that forms around the shaft.  The lip of the seal faces inwards so the tricky part is to keep the seal in shape while replacing the cover.  This is accomplished by using a pill box as a guide.  Slip the pill box over the shaft, replace the cover making sure to ease the lip of the seal over the pill box, and withdraw the pill box when in place.  More details in this Reference discussion

thanks rbm, just what I needed

Benspen, the following is not a technical contribution...but from the tone of your emails maybe it's time to step back for a bit and unwind. It's only a motorbike...and things don't get better when you're wound up. Give it a rest and go back with a fresh attitude. All these things can be worked out.

pretty obvious i did take a step back and know how to work on my bike but thanks!!

[jay1622]

I didn't see where anybody answered your specific question, so I'm going to throw this in. Yes, the rotor and adjusting plate should have been removed prior to pulling the timing chain cover from the bike. I'm sure you've figured this out by now, but you asked after the fact, and it had yet to be answered.  Try your best to use a torque screwdriver, or something of the like as the rotor and adjusting plate require only a few inch pounds of torque, to include the ignition sensor. Note the crescent shaped washers/shims when you install.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I know of one other bike that had the timing chain cover removed with the cup still in place. 

Fortunately, the knucklehead who did it was able to straighten the cup with a small hammer and a large socket and a bit of tapping.