2nd time owning a Brick

[TriSpark]

Hello from the Scenic City of the South.....that's Chattanooga TN to those of you in far flung parts.

I picked up a well used red 1988 K75s a few weeks ago in Georgia, via an idle evening of browsing on Craigslist, and I have been lurking on here to get some information about it. But it's not my first Brick, 30 years I had a 1985 K100 in London, in exactly the same colour. That was my first one, and it was my introduction to Beemers. A friend had just bought a brand new white R100S, and I didn't want to be outdone, but didn't like the old fashioned air head look. It was a delight to ride and surprisingly fast, but we parted company after the electrics went bad and it kept dropping onto 2 cylinders at random, and the dealer there couldn't fix it. It also broke the centre stand with no warning one day, and the bike toppled over, which I did not like. I had it welded up at a car dealers in exchange for a 6 pack of beer, and then traded it in. A picture is attached.

Anyway, the current K75 Brick has a little over 100K on the clocks, but I don't need to tell you that's not a huge mileage, and though it may put off a newbie, we know better than that. It came with a set of hard BMW luggage, totally shagged out tyres, a Koni shock, Staintune pipe and a Corbyn seat. The seller said it smoked a lot but cleared up after being ridden, and I thought to myself "I bet he keeps it on the side stand all the time", and I was right. He didn't know much about the bike, it was clear. When I got it home, it got a wash and then I took off the hard luggage, and started ordering parts to fix the busted/scratched/missing ones.

It ran rough, and I found the air take-off port covers on the injectors were missing, so I popped 2 on and it improved. I raised the tickover (misadjusted to almost zero) and rebalanced the injector air screws so they were all the same, and the rough engine has about cleared up. I think it needs a good run to clear its throat, and then I'll see if it needs any more fettling. 

The screen was hazy, but I was able to polish that out with a buffer and make it half decent, and the wheels need some attention to remove the baked on brake dust, but overall I am pretty pleased with it. Next step is getting a Tag and then some new tyres, and I wil be out and about all through the Autumn as the weather cools down here.

[TriSpark]

Here's the K75 as I got it when I picked it up a few weeks back.

[TriSpark]

Here's the K75 today, after washing it and replacing the busted tail light. Not perfect, but I'm happy with it.

[jay1622]

Welcome to the forum! Judging by your 4th paragraph, you're mechanically inclined and ain't all that scared; everything you need to keep that thing running for a very long time. I bought an identical 1988 K75S around this time last year, and it has served as a rebuild/restoration project for my son and I.

There is a TON of great information on the web, but especially this site. Do your due diligence before asking random questions, lest you be reminded by some of the more entertaining, but ridiculously wise and versed members. I learned, and deservedly so.

Check your Private Messages; I'm going to send you a few links that will surely serve you well.

For now, I'd recommend replacing anything wet (brake fluid, coolant, oil, gearbox oil, final drive oil...) and anything that filters (oil filter, fuel filter). Adjust your clutch cable at the control arm and then dial-in your free-play. Grease that clutch cable barrel at the clutch lever; there's a member who tells that to everyone, and he's right for doing so.

You mentioned balancing the TB's. Did you check the clearance on the valves before doing so? While they should be perfectly fine, a brick of that mileage is worthy of a peek. Popping the valve cover off will also give you an idea of what the rest of the engine looks like on the inside.

You mentioned mitigating a few vacuum issues. Have you sprayed an ignitable spray around the intake/vacuum rubber parts to check for vacuum leaks.

Great intro, and ride safe!

[Martin]

Welcome to the asylum from the land of OZ.
Regards Martin.

[The Dude]

Welcome,also.
The three cylinder ones are the sweetest.
When you get a set of side panels devise a way of retaining them.They fly off.I tie mine on.I've lost several
All the best.

[Martin]

Dude I have never lost a set of side covers in 18 years. I don't know if this is your problem, but I believe one of the reasons that they come off is leaving off the C clip retainers on the back of the  tank. The tank jumps on bumps and the covers take a runner. A mate kept on loosing his until he put the clips back.
Regards Martin.

[Laitch]

Dude I have never lost a set of side covers in 18 years. I don't know if this is your problem, but I believe one of the reasons that they come off is leaving off the C clip retainers on the back of the  tank. The tank jumps on bumps and the covers take a runner. A mate kept on loosing his until he put the clips back.
Regards Martin.

Welcome, TriSpark! Plenty of potential in that baby and you seem like an owner capable of realizing it. Now, on with the hijack under the guise of being information that will be of benefit to you.

My bike's covers have posts that insert into the rear cowl and a semi-circular spring clip that engages with a post on the frame that holds the assembly under tension when the forward lip of the cover is lowered then pushed behind the edge of the tank. Can you post a photo of the C clip retainers on the back of the tank that you allude to in your post or would removing the covers break some sort of protective spell they under? Would you indicate their number on the attached drawings?

[Martin]

The two posts on the back of the tank push through rubber grommets item 14. The C clips item 15 push into a groove in the posts and stops the tank from jumping. The clips can be a bit of a pain to fit and remove requires the removal of suicidal side panels and lifting the seat. It is easier to remove them if you have a piece of wire with a small hook on the end. Rubber grease  should also be used on the grommets otherwise grommets can be pulled out and also go hard.
Regards Martin.

[Laitch]

The two posts on the back of the tank push through rubber grommets item 14.

It's all clear to me now, Martin. I've always had those horseshoe clips in place unless I was removing the tank so I haven't been afflicted with jumping tank syndrome. I can now visualize how the confluence of a tank jump and low-level karmic debt might cause those covers to vanish.

Thanks for the explanation.

[Martin]

Laitch I bet you have never lost a side cover. I used to follow this particular mate and recover his covers, he didn't believe the C clips served any viable function other than to annoy him and make removal of the tank more complicated. To prove the point I took to a carpark with speed bumps and had him ride over the bumps. It didn't happen every time, but it happened enough to make him reinstall the clips. Never lost one after that.
Regards Martin.

[The Dude]

Yeah,c clips,I remember them,now.Thanks for the tutorials.

I used to follow this particular mate and recover his covers, he didn't believe the C clips served any viable function other than to annoy him and make removal of the tank more complicated.

I know that person!
I got round flying side covers when I attached a lanyard to them.They're still the wrong colour.
 I might delve into the box I keep with all the bits left over from numerous forays into the whys and wherefores to reacquaint myself with the original solutions BMW had.'Might find more stuff from long ago that I deemed superfluous....
Anyway,Trispark,all the best!

[TriSpark]

Who would have thought this would turn into a thread about battery covers? lol  :yes

I do have a matched set of battery covers I found online, but I have not fitted them yet. A challenge for another day I think.

Thank you all for the welcome, and thanks Jay for all the email links.....great stuff mate! Much appreciated. Yes, I have been working on bikes a long time as a hobby, so I am fairly handy in the workshop, and I restore classic Japanese mainly. I have written bike tech articles for the VJMC (UK) newsletter and the Kawasaki Triples Club newsletter, and also a few articles for Classic Mechanics magazine in the UK. 

Current bikes in the stable, aside from the Brick, are a 1976 Kawasaki KH400, 1984 Yamaha RD350 YPVS and a 1989 Honda VTR250. I like the old 2 strokes, and am always looking for more projects.

Jay, I am doing just what you and everyone else says, and swapping filters and fluids before I do any serious riding. The brake fluid is black, which is never a good sign, so that's coming out next, and the oil window is opaque, so I will have to pop in a new one. The in-tank fuel filter is missing....which is interesting! But the inside of the tank is spotless and shiny, which makes me happy.  I haven't checked the clearances yet, but I will do, as well a look at the plugs.

Having owned the K100, everything here is familiar, and I'm enjoying the logical layout and quality build of a Brick as I work through it. I'm replacing the Staintune muffler with a standard K75 one soon, and will be selling that as well as the hard luggage. 

[jay1622]

I'm interested in the luggage and the exhaust. What are their condition. PM me.

Also, you maybe able to get a cleaner in that window with the oil filter cover and filter removed.

[TriSpark]

Here's the luggage, which has working locks and the brackets are included. I'll get you a picture of the exhaust shortly.

[TriSpark]

Here's the pipe.

[TriSpark]

So I found out a bit more about the smoking issue......these are the old D7EA's that were in it. One was dead and the other 2 were very nasty. Hmmmm.....

An oil change last weekend came with a surprise. Out come 7.5 litres of used oil ! That's almost 2 gallons.....somewhat over-filled, I think. That would explain the smoke, and why the oil window appeared to have gone solid black. Even on the side stand it was black. Once drained it was clear and normal. I refilled with the correct amount of a well know brand and grade of oil that has been discussed here many times, but not saying which one so we don't start another "you should have used this oil instead" thread.

I also put in a new oil pressure switch, as the old one was dribbly, using the BMW car version rather than OEM. Cleaned up the K&N air filter that came with it - man, that thing was nasty too. New plugs fitted and away we go....no smoking after a brisk run. Hopefully no seals damaged by over-filling the engine either.

Next up, new tires fitted, and I put on a set of Michelin Pilot Activs (or Act 4 tires, as the dealer called them.......). After that, a spline lube job, and a check of the valve clearances are the last few things to do. It's looking good.

[jaxon]

Dude I have never lost a set of side covers in 18 years. I don't know if this is your problem, but I believe one of the reasons that they come off is leaving off the C clip retainers on the back of the  tank. The tank jumps on bumps and the covers take a runner. A mate kept on loosing his until he put the clips back.
Regards Martin.

Yep. If the tank isn't fully seated they will come off.

[zipster68]

"It ran rough, and I found the air take-off port covers on the injectors were missing, so I popped 2 on and it improved. I raised the tickover (misadjusted to almost zero) and rebalanced the injector air screws so they were all the same, and the rough engine has about cleared up. I think it needs a good run to clear its throat, and then I'll see if it needs any more fettling.  "

Are "air take-off port covers the same as the balancing port caps?

[TriSpark]

Yes, I think so. I use a lot of British terms for engine parts.....because I'm a Brit.

[The Dude]

"It ran rough, and I found the air take-off port covers on the injectors were missing, so I popped 2 on and it improved. I raised the tickover (misadjusted to almost zero) and rebalanced the injector air screws so they were all the same, and the rough engine has about cleared up. I think it needs a good run to clear its throat, and then I'll see if it needs any more fettling.  "

Are "air take-off port covers the same as the balancing port caps?

Terminology!if you are talking about those three little rubber blobs that cover tubes and the fourth tube at the rear has a hose on it with a wire coil round it then yes they are the ones you use to ballance the airflow at idle with Manometers.
I'm not surprised it ran rough before.The vacuum hose at the rear goes to the diaphragm that controls the fuel injection pressure regulator!
All the best with your fettling.

[The Dude]

Yes, I think so. I use a lot of British terms for engine parts.....because I'm a Brit.

I came from that side of the pond hence my first word in my last post which you posted whilst
I was pontificating what Zipster was on about.