K1100 Clutch pushrod boot

[racket]

It's the little boot that covers the throw out bearing attached to clutch push rod. The K1100 repair manual seems to suggest that it's a straightforward installation, but I can't seem to get it on and compress the spring that mounts up to the bearing at the same time. Is there a trick to this? Am I doing something wrong?


#4 and #6 below
http://store.bobsbmw.com/microfiche/DisplayImage.aspx?Size=Full&Type=Z&ImageID=2821

I originally pulled the clutch push rod out of the front of the transmission. When I went to reinstall through the back of the transmission, I noticed the bearing was seating in pretty far. Now with the push rod in, the bearing isn't quite as deep. Not sure if that's the issue but it doesn't seem to want to go in any further

[The Dude]

I originally pulled the clutch push rod out of the front of the transmission. When I went to reinstall through the back of the transmission, I noticed the bearing was seating in pretty far. Now with the push rod in, the bearing isn't quite as deep. Not sure if that's the issue but it doesn't seem to want to go in any further

Hey Racket,
From poor memory,,,,the thrust bearing must have the space to move in towards the clutch when you pull the lever so it makes sense that it sits further out with the push rod in place to allow this to happen.Without the push rod the bearing would go in further to the machined landing and so would be further "in".
Try warming the boot ( item 6) up in hot water?( if you haven't got it on yet.).To make it last fill it with vasalene,mayb, to help keep crud migrating to the thrust bearing in twenty years time....and grease the pivot shaft.It's all good,bike bonding whilst you can,they get boring needing nothing for years on end.

[rbm]

Hi Racket,  I meant to reply to your PM.  The pushrod-piston-spring combination is tricky to manoeuvre while trying to get the boot secured.  My technique is to:

• Prepare the actuator arm to be secured with a wire at its cable end by removing the clutch cable nipple and letting the arm pivot freely
• Install the band clamp over the boot such that it can be oriented properly for tightening once the boot is in place. Correct orientation is to have the screw head facing down on the right side of the transmission bushing so that you can tighten it using a long 1/8" flat blade screwdriver to tighten it from the bottom of the transmission.
• Stack up the spring in position on the piston, loosely install the boot over the spring, and bring up the actuator arm to compress the lot
• Using wire, fasten the cable end of the actuator arm to the transmission case so to keep pressure on the clutch pushrod. Alternatively, if you have a second human helper, get them to hold the actuator arm to keep pressure on the clutch
• Slip the boot over the transmission bushing and secure it with the band clamp.
• Install the clutch cable to the actuator arm.  At no time should you release pressure on the actuator arm.  The strength of the spring will rip the rubber boot if the arm releases

Hope that explanation is clear and helps you

[TX brick]

Fit the boot  in position then hook the cable to the release arm. This will compress the spring and allow you to have both hands free to maneuver the boot and clamp into final position.