ABS Pump wiring lead removal?

[Farmrjohn]

After having the rear drive/transmission off to lube the clutch spline I managed to get the pedal bracket and rear ABS pump wires on the outside of the frame rail as well as the supply line from the brake resevoir.  Looking at the Clymer manual, it says to remove the ABS pump to disconnect the wires from the back.  The wiring lead seems securely attached to the unit.  There is not enough room to disconnect the brake hoses and take the ABS unit itself around the frame rail to the correct side, and I'd like to not need to remove the rear drive/transmission again to get ABS wire to the correct side of the frame rail.  Does the wire disconnect from the pump?  I've been able to reroute the other wires and drip hoses to the correct side but not the ABS.

[Scud]

Bummer. If that wire comes off the ABS unit, I have no idea how.

Have you considered loosening the frame? If you remove the rear shock, remove all the frame bolts, except the forward pair, you may be able to pivot the frame up enough to get the wire where you want it. Depending on how you support the bike, you might also need to remove the front wheel.

[TimTyler]

There should be a blue plug at the end of the wire you can disconnect. Might be under the tank, I forget.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Tim is correct, follow the cable from the ABS modulator forward up under the tank where you will find the connector.  I don't think you need to disconnect it.  I never did and I've been into the clutch four or five times now on my bikes.

Tie the modulator up out of the way.  there is no need to get it outside the frame or disconnect the hard brake lines.  There is enough play in there to get it out of the way of the transmission.  You really only need to raise the modulator a couple inches for the transmission to slide out below it. 

[Scud]

Hmm - I assumed the problem was the connection inside the ABS unit and the other end had already been disconnected and re-routing had failed. You know how sometimes cables just can't be bent enough to be forced into a tight spot...

I too have accidentally routed something on the "wrong" side of a frame before and been frustrated.

Hopefully the simple approach solves the OP's problem.

[Farmrjohn]

Thanks all.  I had hoped the Clymer manual was correct that the wire could be disconnected from the unit.  I did follow it up and the other end is somewhere under the tank.  I had hoped to not have to take the tank off as it's full, and I find the clips at the rear challenging.  Since there doesn't seem to be any tension on the wire I'll wait until the tank is less full.  The issue arose because the initial tying off of the ABS/foot peg/caliper dropped while the transmission was out, and when I re-did it thinking "cool, there is more clearance now" managed to get it through the frame triangle on the wrong side upon reassembly, D'oh.

[TimTyler]

...and I find the clips at the rear challenging. 

Needle nose pliers for the clips, a screwdriver for the two fuel hose clamps in the front-left, and your hands to disconnect the fuel pump connector. Once the fairing is out of the way, the tank can be removed in a  few minutes. Gasoline weighs less than water.  :eek:

[TrueAce]

Rubber bulb, vinyl hose, $2.99 syphon from AutoZone. Oh, and instead of running the gas on the floor, remember to stick the tube in an empty gas can. A full tank is probably close to 40lbs!