BMW k75 ( K100 ?) headlight dismantling

[foliver]

If you're replacing the H4 socket then get a ceramic one. I use them on my Ks. They don't melt.

Thanks Frankenduck, I’ve located  close to my house!

[The Mighty Gryphon]

If you're replacing the H4 socket then get a ceramic one. I use them on my Ks. They don't melt.

The plastic OEM connector will weld itself to the contacts on the H4 bulb, making it nearly impossible to remove.  Don't bother asking me how I know this, I'm not telling.

[foliver]

The plastic OEM connector will weld itself to the contacts on the H4 bulb, making it nearly impossible to remove.  Don't bother asking me how I know this, I'm not telling.

jajajaj, i can imagine your scenario...

Mine has lost part of the shape,it stops working after 2 days of the revival, it develops an intermitent contact.

The blue light on the Speedo stays on, i discovered that is a sigh of non working headlight..

My problem in the starter relay-battery relation ( maybe plus another electrical anomaly, ignition key? ) continues, and i've seen that if the starter keeeps running after start up, i don't have light on the speedo, and i cannot turn off the bike.

I know is another story, not for this thread, but i bring it here, cause i've discovered the intermitent contact of the headlamp, after stall the bike in 3rd gear to shut off.

2 days ago when it happens again, i thought if it was the cause of the melted socket.... ( i suppose it's not related..) but..

[rbm]

A ceramic socket is not immune from melting.  Mine did because the connection corroded over time and caused excessive resistance.  The corrosion narrowed one of the wires and the heat generated melted the insulation.  My advice - keep and eye on maintaining clean electrical connections.

[Laitch]

My problem in the starter relay-battery relation ( maybe plus another electrical anomaly, ignition key? ) continues, and i've seen that if the starter keeeps running after start up, i don't have light on the speedo, and i cannot turn off the bike.

There are a few possible causes, two of which are considered in my response to this query.

To stop starter run-on if it happens, several members here have installed battery-isolator switches.

[frankenduck]

A ceramic socket is not immune from melting.  Mine did because the connection corroded over time and caused excessive resistance.  The corrosion narrowed one of the wires and the heat generated melted the insulation.  My advice - keep and eye on maintaining clean electrical connections.

What actually melted?

a) the ceramic
b) the plastic cover for the socket
c) the wire insulation

Ceramics don't melt until very high temps.

How old was it? Do you live near salt water?

With new socket terminals and a new H4 bulb it should take a long, long time for corrosion to build up.

I've been using ceramic H4 sockets in my Ks since 2013 and never had any issues.

[foliver]

There are a few possible causes, two of which are considered in my response to this query.

To stop starter run-on if it happens, several members here have installed battery-isolator switches.

Hi Laitch.
This problem is my main problem now, and the isolator switch is a must have for me now. I'll install one for sure.
I'm reading re reading he link you give me, my green button seems ok under the finger, but may be it needs a good cleaning anyway.

The starter switch ( the one with the key, i mean) yesterday behaves strange at the top position, i'm in the obligation to clean it, in fact, i've cleaned an old one that the previous owner replace it and keeps, and the switch part is clean now, may be i can switch to this one to test if the problem persist.

[foliver]

What actually melted?

a) the ceramic
b) the plastic cover for the socket
c) the wire insulation

Ceramics don't melt until very high temps.

How old was it? Do you live near salt water?

With new socket terminals and a new H4 bulb it should take a long, long time for corrosion to build up.

I've been using ceramic H4 sockets in my Ks since 2013 and never had any issues.

Hi Frankenduck.

the area around of one of the pins in the plastick soked melted, i don't know when, may be time ago, i've never unmount the headlamp before so i don't know when it happens.

Wires are fine.

https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.uy/MLU-455372626-fichas-socket-conectoras-p-lamparas-h4-ceramica-x-par-f122-_JM

this ones are the sockets i'll buy to replece them, i'll solder the new wires to the older one, and cover the joint with thermocontactil tube.

[Laitch]

Hi Laitch.
This problem is my main problem now, and the isolator switch is a must have for me now. I'll install one for sure.
I'm reading re reading he link you give me, my green button seems ok under the finger, but may be it needs a good cleaning anyway.

The link I gave you also mention the starter relay and that should be investigated to determine it its contacts are fused. Have you done that?

[jad01]

It seems to me that in the photo, the halogen light on the right seems to illuminate each of the door panel edges as well or better than the white light on the left; however, it could be that from individual to individual, light receptors in vision structure vary in their response to different colored light. That appearance could also be an artifact of the angle of each headlight.

Yeah, the color of LED light has been an issue for me as well.  I love the technology, but the the 3500K light provides much better contrast on the road for my eyes than the super white 6500K that seem to be predominant currently.  I had 7' truck lights in one of my Miatas for awhile and just didn't see as well as with halogens.  I keep my eyes open  for 3500K H4 in in a reputable brand, but have seen any so far.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Rob, I don't think it was corrosion that caused my problem.  I clean the contacts with Deoxit when I replace headlight bulbs every 3 years or so.  The contacts are always nice and clean.  Chalk that up to my OCD maintenance habits.

I suspect the problem is lack of cooling.  First, the fairing and the rubber boot on the bulb limit cooling airflow on the rear of the bulb.  Second, I have an Eastern Beaver relay harness that puts full power on the bulb, and third, I have been known to ride long distances in hot desert temperatures(120F/48C).

Even when the connector melted, the wires only had their insulation melted for a centimeter or so from the connector that had turned into a plastic blob.

[jad01]

Fabian, has your bike been upgraded with a relay for the headlight? If not, you might check out Frankenduck's write-up on the matter. It can also benefit the life of your headlight dimmer switch.

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=268.0

Lots of good info in here! 

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Yeah, the color of LED light has been an issue for me as well.  I love the technology, but the the 3500K light provides much better contrast on the road for my eyes than the super white 6500K that seem to be predominant currently.  I had 7' truck lights in one of my Miatas for awhile and just didn't see as well as with halogens.  I keep my eyes open  for 3500K H4 in in a reputable brand, but have seen any so far.

That has been my experience as well.  I have LED spotlight driving lights on my bikes, and despite the fact that they are supposed to put out more light than my headlight, for some reason they have a bit less ability to illuminate as far down the road as the halogen H4. 

I can't say why.  Is it scatter or lack of sensitivity of my eyes at the wavelength?  They are incredibly bright to look at, even from a long distance, but at night they have little ability to reach out to long distances.  I noticed that in the link Laitch posted, the author mentions older eyes having less sensitivity to some wavelengths.

Another problem I have noticed is that LED's illuminate road signs much more than the headlight.  Again, I don't know if this is a symptom of poor beam control of the light lens or the wavelength of the light, but the glare from the signs blinds me to the deer lurking on the roadside just beyond them.

[foliver]

The link I gave you also mention the starter relay and that should be investigated to determine it its contacts are fused. Have you done that?

Hi Laitch, the starter relay is new ( 4 weeks), when i first try to start the bike with the new battery, the starter keeps running, so the relay stays connected, with a screwdriver i tap on it and it releases.
After charging again the batterie all went normal, but the problem repeats time to time....the bike always starts now, but sometimes the bike don't want turn off until i stalling it....and the relay opens again...
Do ou think i need to open it and sand the contacts?

when i boost the battery with external charger and it reach 12,9-13, the bike starts like a fire spark, fast.
All the earth points was cleaned and deoxit.

[rbm]

What actually melted?

a) the ceramic
b) the plastic cover for the socket
c) the wire insulation

Ceramics don't melt until very high temps.

How old was it? Do you live near salt water?

With new socket terminals and a new H4 bulb it should take a long, long time for corrosion to build up.

I've been using ceramic H4 sockets in my Ks since 2013 and never had any issues.

The copper wire melted through right at the connector like a fuse, the insulation near the connector also melted and the ceramic was blackened.  The plastic surrounding the socket also melted.

The dip beam lead was what failed.  I don't know the cause of the corrosion but the uint was not so old, maybe 5-6 years and I don't live anywhere near saltwater.   I suspect that some of the strands in the wire might have been physically damaged and it degraded over time.   It happened on a day trip and I had to drive home with no headlight at night.  Scary experience since I know I was totally invisible to drivers.

[daveson]

Strange that the relay will unstick when you stall it. When you stall it that will pump up the Amps. Maybe that's why it unsticks,  from the heat of the higher Amps. My brick read 100 Amps once with a stall test (when I installed a circuit breaker)

You don't want to keep pumping that heat through your wires. You want a proper isolator switch. In the mean time you can go the quick, cheap lazy way I did. You can probably get the switch at your local hardware store. Disconnect the battery earth cable from the gearbox. Bolt the isolator switch to the gearbox. Then bolt the earth cable to the isolator switch. In half an hour you can do it and still have time for a smoke.

[Laitch]

. . . when i boost the battery with external charger and it reach 12,9-13, the bike starts like a fire spark, fast.
All the earth points was cleaned and deoxit.

Have the battery load-tested soon and let us know the results. It doesn't seem like it has enough charge, regardless of how new it is.

[foliver]

Thanks Daveson and Laitch, i just started with what i have at home. Saturday afternoon...
So i dismantle the starter relay, and i polishit with 350 sand paper, here some before after pictures.
I've switch to another the starter ignition ( the main key switch).

Monday i'll grab an isolator switch, and after finishing my job test the battery

txs!!!!

[frankenduck]

The LED H4s that I use are about 40/20W vs. the 60/55W of the factory halogen bulbs.

Just to update this:

Out of curiosity I decided to measure the actual currents for the H4 LED high and low beams. Attached to a battery at 12.67V both the high and low beams draw 2.12 amps so each beam is only consuming 27W vs. the 60/55W of a non-LED H4. Therefore, about half as much current is flowing through the contacts in the left combo switch. The LED H4 not only puts out a better, brighter beam with accurate beam patterns but it is also easier on the high/low beam contacts in the left combo switch. It's a win-win. Better lighting and less switch wear.

[foliver]

Very nice info Frankenduck