1987 K100LT renewal advice

[Skids]

I purchased a 1987 K100LT at the end of November.  I paid $1,200 for it, but had to spend almost $300 getting it home with a truck rental, etc.  So it is my $1,500 motobrick now.  It had 62277 miles on the odometer, was running rough but thanks to many forum members it is running nicely now.  I needed new caps for my throttle sync tubes and replaced some other rotted rubber.  So far I replaced the spark plugs, changed the oil, which was filthy, disassembled and cleaned the throttle twist grip gears and linkage, replaced the grips with Progrips, and basically cleaned it up a bit.

It must have been dropped at least once, since there are some cracks in the fairing, fairing pieces missing, the right glove box is cracked beyond repair, the antenna is missing (it has an old radio and cassette player in the left glove box), the front wheel is black while the rear is silver, assorted screws and fasteners are missing, there are some cracks in one of the saddlebags and top case.  The fuels guage was taken off but I have it as the previous owner said it didn't work.

At first I was thinking of taking it the cafe or scrambler route, but I like it the way it is and am now thinking of fixing it up a bit.  So I am looking for advice, parts, etc., if any forum members can help with the following:

1. Advice on fixing cracks in the fairing and repainting the fairing, fenders, etc.
2. Advice on fixing cracks in the saddlebag, top case, as well as painting these
3. Anyone have a right hand glove box?
4. Anyone have an antenna?
5. Advice on trouble shooting the fuel guage
6. The lower part of the fairing is missing on both sides - do any of you remove these anyway because of the heat from the engine?
7. Any other advice on important, or cool, things to do?

Thanks,

Skids

[Scud]

Your situation seems similar to mine. My '92 K75s had 42,000 miles. I rode it about 800 miles home instead of flying/renting a car on a multi-city business trip - so I deducted my mileage reimbursement from my purchase price to get my "delivered" cost.

Anyway, the bike had been neglected and the more I considered the parts I wanted to buy, the more it started adding up. I was fortunate to find a good price on another complete motorcycle with a bad transmission (same model and color but two years older) and am currently merging the two motorcycles (keeping the 1992 frame/engine/title) - and will sell off the extras when I'm done. I don't know if this approach is something that would work for you, but given your list of parts and problems it might be worth thinking about. You list will grow as you get into the bike - and the little crap (like missing fasteners) adds up fast in time and money.

You need to decide whether you are just trying to build yourself a cheap form of transportation, or if you are doing a restoration, or if you are doing a personalized project. That decision will guide the rest. As for me, I'm trying to strike a balance between those three - something that retains the K75s essence but looks a little bit custom.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

OK, here goes what I know.

The side bags.  You can repair them with epoxy and fiberglass.  I have a couple bags that look to have been through some spills.   Rough up the inside of the bag with 80 grit and lay on a couple layers of 4 or 6oz fiberglass cloth saturated with epovy resin.  THe best resin to use is West System 5 minute.  It will give you about 5 minutes to lay in the patch and get it pushed down.  You can get it at most boating supply stores.   If you need more information as far as technique let me know and I will see what I can get for you.

I have done a bit of touch up and a complete repaint on my bikes.  Standard bodywork stuff like 220, 320, and 600 grit.  Duraglass filler(get it at a boat shop) will fill gauges and dents.

If you have the BMW paint code ask around at the automotive paint places.  You should find one that can mix the color.  Be aware that the number on the bike may not be the paint color, but actually is the final finish and you will need the base coat color code.  The paint guys will fix you up with reducer and primer to match the paint.  For the size of our bike parts, rattle can primer is all you need.  Probably only one can.  Get a niosh mask to protect against fumes.  You will also need a can of prep solvent, and an adhesion promoter for the flexible stuff.

You may laugh, but I apply base coat with a Badger model 250 airbrush run off of my shop compressor.  I set the regulator for 20-25psi.  THe badger is really cheap, about $15 used on eBay or 25 at a hobby shop and is pretty easy to set up and it gives very good results.  Get an optional 4oz bottle so you don't have to stop too often for refills. 

When the base is done I take the parts to a local collision shop for clear coat.  The clear is what makes the paint job.  Ask around if they'll do it when they are doing another job and you might get a pretty decent price.

To paint the top cases and tragkorbs, dewax, sand with 220, fill all the dings, shoot with adhesion promoter, and paint with your favorite rattle can paint.  I like Rustoleum in satin or matte black.  If you can get that color in the High Performance enamels, go for it.  They dry fast and seem to be harder finishes than other enamels.  That satin black also works well on stuff like swing arms, inner fenders, and other black stuff.  Semi gloss black seems to work on the frame.  Krylon makes a rust converting primer that goes on before the paint on any metal you can't completely derust.  I use it when I do frame touch up.

hope this helps.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Oh, another thing I do is get a bottle of S100 motorcycle cleaner.  The Hardley shops sell it, I think they have it under their own name now, but if you ask for S100 they'll know what you want.  When ever I take anything apart, it gets a scrub with S100 and warm water.  Best cleaner/degreaser I've ever seen.  Stuff comes out almost like new with hardly any scrubbing.

I use it on everything, engine parts, fairing parts, wheels, rubber, switches and electrical stuff.  For electrical stuff just use a little distilled water as a final rinse before a good shake out followed by a towel and finally a minute or two with a hair dryer.  Only place I don't use it is in the instruments and the engine managemment computers.