Needle Roller bearing removal

[KHilda86]

Hi guys first time poster, been reading some threads over the last year and found some very useful information so firstly  thank you..

Like many other I'm in the process of building a Cafe Racer or Scrafe Racer as I like to call her as she's more of a cafe/scrambler hybrid lookswise [emoji16]

She was originally an 86 k100 RT 2 valve with 65k miles

So I've been pricking away doing some smaller jobs and I noticed the needle roller bearings are shot on the clutch actuaction arm gearbox end.

These are proving to be a nightmare to remove, has anyone done this previously or any tips on how to remove both these bearings??

I assume you can't drive them out from one end as the design of the arm would stop this, or is there actually a bushing in between both sets of bearings that would drive out also??

Any help would be appreciated.

And am planning on doing a full strip/build thread with photos once Hilda is up and running [emoji1303]

Thanks guys

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Laitch]

. . . I noticed the needle roller bearings are shot on the clutch actuaction arm gearbox end.. . .
I assume you can't . . .

Welcome. Post some photos of your relic.

Your assumptions are unimportant and are distractions. Accurate descriptions are helpful.  Are you discussing part #8 in the attached illustration?

Remove the circlip, remove the washer, remove the pin, heat up the arm in that assembly area with a heat gun or hot water, drive the bearing out in the direction of the arrow, get a couple of useful workshop manuals. The one you're using doesn't cut it.

[KHilda86]

Much appreciated my friend, yeah I have to replace both bearings #8 but I wasn't sure I could drive them out..

Yes could do with a manual although all the info I've needed so far has come from this site, so appreciate all the help [emoji1303]

Below was her in poor state when I bought her [emoji24] Someone half attempted a cafe racer project but the work was very poor [emoji107]

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[KHilda86]

This is where I'm at now, long way to go still and baby number 1 a round the corner [emoji85]🤣

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Laitch]

I like the primary-color coordination on your tool peg board. The recommendation about getting a manual wasn't to help you necessarily; it was to help me. :giggles

I think the previous owner had a decent vision. I liked his retaining the tail cowl and modifying the mudguard. That isn't seen often. You've taken up the challenge full strength. Good luck with your project.

[KHilda86]

I like the primary-color coordination on your tool peg board. The recommendation about getting a manual wasn't to help you necessarily; it was to help me. :giggles

I think the previous owner had a decent vision. I liked his retaining the tail cowl and modifying the mudguard. That isn't seen often. You've taken up the challenge full strength. Good luck with your project.

Thanks Laitch

Yeah it was a good idea, he cut the tail piece arse ways so couldn't be used unfortunately, but I will be using the front mud guard [emoji1303]

Thanks my friend

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Welcome!  Spend some time figuring out how to get the line of the bottom of the tank as close to horizontal as possible.   Probably by raising the front mounts a bit and lowering the rear.  That angled tank is a major reason why 99% of K bike cappucino racers look like crap.

[KHilda86]

Welcome!  Spend some time figuring out how to get the line of the bottom of the tank as close to horizontal as possible.   Probably by raising the front mounts a bit and lowering the rear.  That angled tank is a major reason why 99% of K bike cappucino racers look like crap.

Yeah I see where your coming from haven't seen many with that done, quite like how they sit as is tho..

Defo worth a thought tho appreciate it [emoji1303]

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Laitch]

Defo worth a thought tho appreciate it

Rainman gets my award for inventive use of existing parts for this tail cowl conversion —practical and good looking.

[wally.fisher]

Welcome. Post some photos of your relic.

Your assumptions are unimportant and are distractions. Accurate descriptions are helpful.  Are you discussing part #8 in the attached illustration?

Remove the circlip, remove the washer, remove the pin, heat up the arm in that assembly area with a heat gun or hot water, drive the bearing out in the direction of the arrow, get a couple of useful workshop manuals. The one you're using doesn't cut it.

I use a very short 8 x 25mm rawl bolt inserted into the bearing just shy of the inside shoulder, I then expand the rawl bolt in the bearing and drive it out from the opposite side. Simples.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[KHilda86]

I use a very short 8 x 25mm rawl bolt inserted into the bearing just shy of the inside shoulder, I then expand the rawl bolt in the bearing and drive it out from the opposite side. Simples.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Good idea Wally, will defo need to give this a shot [emoji1303]

Thank you

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Martin]

To save future problems, add a grease nipple and grease a couple of times a year. Easy job and greasing pushes out the crap and stops the entry of more crap and water.
Regards Martin.

Clutch grease nipple 2.jpg (41.2 kB . 768x576 - viewed 406 times)

[KHilda86]

To save future problems, add a grease nipple and grease a couple of times a year. Easy job and greasing pushes out the crap and stops the entry of more crap and water.
Regards Martin.

Clutch grease nipple 2.jpg (41.2 kB . 768x576 - viewed 406 times)

Yeah that makes a lot of sense, you just drill through and tap a tread Martin yeah??

Thanks

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Martin]

Remove the arm and drill and tap for a 6mm  or what ever size is your preference.  Be careful not to damage the clutch push rod boot, otherwise tears will ensue it is a pricey little item.
Regards Martin.