Glowing Charge Indicator Light

[pallum]

The problem that's been plaguing me for 4 years now... The charge indicator light on my bike has been glowing ever since buying it. It glows all the time, to the extent that you can just see it in daylight when the brake light goes on. The glow increases in brightness with revs, using heated grips, and really gets bright after hitting the brakes (not full on though). The problem's not just superficial though, the charging system can't keep up with daily commuting so the battery needs a charge every 2 weeks or so. Until now I've always had a garage in which to use a battery tender every time I'm home (which I did as a good practice, not knowing the real issue), but since moving to an apartment complex... It makes it a bit of an operation to get a charge and so I've already had a few mornings with a flat battery.

All of this being done with the battery removed: In search of short circuits the only weird thing I have seen is when measuring between the two red wires connected to battery positive (but not the red wire connecting the alternator to the battery) and frame ground I see it begin as 0 ohms, and gradually rise and settle at 105k ohms. Meter immediately reads open loop when fuse 3 is removed. The 105k resistance persists when the red/white wire going to the instrument cluster clock is disconnected, but goes open loop again when the flasher unit is disconnected (these both use red/white wires, which don't measure any short circuit to frame ground on their own). Is it normal to measure any resistance between the battery positive connection and ground?

Running the bike with fuse 3 removed, or with the flasher unit removed has no effect on the charge indicator bulb.

Measuring between the Sky Blue wire and the red wire of the alternator connector yields 12.7v(battery) key off, ~10v key on and cluster illuminated, and ~0.1v while bike running. Battery voltage while idling measures 13v+.

Headlights are supplied by relays and have no effect on the charge indicator whether on, off, or disconnected.

What's been done: (many of these done as regular maintenance, not really aiming at this problem)
-Replaced battery a few months after purchase because it wouldn't hold a charge at all (currently: Odyssey PC680 3 years ago)
-An extra alternator came with the bike when I bought it, changing alternators has no effect.
-Replaced voltage regulator
-Cleaned starter motor
-Cleaned ground connections
-Replaced ground strap
-Replaced ignition switch

None of these had any effect on the charge light. Having two problematic alternators seems a bit unlikely, but maybe I've just missed something else?

[pdg]

There will always be a little bit of current draw with the ignition (and everything else) 'off'...

For a start, there's a clock to keep alive.

Personally, I'm not keen at all on battery tenders. They mask so many potential issues and, in my opinion, can cause even more. If you are using the machine even weekly (let alone daily) then you should never need to charge/top up the battery, and if you're not using it for months then the better thing to do is remove the battery and cycle it every few weeks or so. My bike gets very sporadic use - it sometimes has daily use and other times goes for a couple of weeks without being touched, even being used through winter (kept outside through ice/snow/rain/every weather) I've not had to charge my battery.

Unless someone beats me to it, I'll dig out the wiring schematic later on and have a bit of a think.

[Scott_]

Well, so from what I am seeing in the schematics.
From the battery you should have:
1 red wire to the alternator(diode assy),
1 red wire to the starter relay (term30), then to a junction(splice/terminal) that distributes to (1)fuse block(fuses 3,4 and 5), (2)load shed relay (term44), (3)ignition switch (term30),
1 red wire to injection relay (term30).

From fuse (3) you will have 2 red/white wires, (1) goes to the clock, (1) goes to the flasher relay for the 4-way hazard flasher function.
Fuse (4) isn't indicating any wires connected to it may be open for added extra equipment.
From fuse (5) you should have 2 red/yellow wires, (1) goes to connector for anti-theft alarm(if equipped), (1) goes to connector labeled for "optional extras".....

So unless someone has added something that should be all there is that is powered with the key off.

Sounds like you have a pretty good power drain to take a battery down that fast.

[pallum]

Had alternator tested. Pre tune-up it was pushing 27A output, which is not too bad considering the max rating is 32A. After reconditioning the slip rings and repairing a spun bearing, with another voltage regulator it was up to 37A max output. All diodes are good and output voltage is where it should be.

Additional readings coming in slowly but surely, putting them up here for future reference:

@1100rpm
Alternator B+: 13.2v (exactly the same as the battery's positive terminal)
Alternator charge indicator wire: 13.8v
Current through Alternator B+ wire: 14A (system includes two 60W headlights pulling 5A each)

Measured with a clamp on ammeter.

Edit: Problem persists.

[johnny]

greetings pallum...

how is that clutch bath working out...

j o

[pallum]

I've had more thoughts about it, but not having a garage (or access to a machine shop) makes progress hard to come by. I've got to hide behind the apartment complex's dumpsters just to change my oil  :hehehe I'm not sure how they'd react to a full teardown...

[johnny]

greetings pallum...

i just noticed... bellevue warshington... you made it... yeeeeehaaaaaa...

j o

[pallum]

Yeeehaaaa indeed. Almost have a PNW year under my belt. It doesn't rain like they say it does...