New owner of K75 - did I wreck it already?

[cmattina]

Okay, now that i have confirmed from the video that my clutch splines are likely bad, i know i likely need a new friction plate. I would really like to get away with just replace this, rather than everything in the clutch.

What is bare minimum i should replace if i put a new friction plate in? Also, do I need to buy those clutch centering tools (the two wrenches), what else might i need?

[Motorhobo]

I

Is your clutch noise like this?

Post

My clutch disc splines were in bad shape...replaced the disc and the noise is all but gone

Maybe someone can explain how worn clutch splines could make that particular noise? My understanding is that they either grind out and fail or they don't. I don't get the acoustics...what is slapping up against what to generate that?

Is the sound after clutch job completely gone or just 'all but' gone? If it's not completely gone then the issue isn't completely gone either, or?

The behavior is similar to what one might get with bad alternator monkey nutz...but I think with the monkey nutz it'd be more of a clacking than a loud ticking, which is what it sounds like on the video. Wonder if you've done the stethoscope thing to try to localize the source acoustically...

[cmattina]

I

Is your clutch noise like this?

Post

My clutch disc splines were in bad shape...replaced the disc and the noise is all but gone

Maybe someone can explain how worn clutch splines could make that particular noise? My understanding is that they either grind out and fail or they don't. I don't get the acoustics...what is slapping up against what to generate that?

Is the sound after clutch job completely gone or just 'all but' gone? If it's not completely gone then the issue isn't completely gone either, or?

The behavior is similar to what one might get with bad alternator monkey nutz...but I think with the monkey nutz it'd be more of a clacking than a loud ticking, which is what it sounds like on the video. Wonder if you've done the stethoscope thing to try to localize the source acoustically...

i was hoping alternator with mine, however, why would pulling the clutch lever make it go away?

I was also thinking, it made that sound, then one does a ton of work to it and the sound goes away, could have been something as simply as spline lube, etc.,

[rbm]

What is bare minimum i should replace if i put a new friction plate in?

The list I provided earlier plus:
21211454417   Screw   (6)

Apparently these screws are one-use only and need to be replaced each time.      

Also, do I need to buy those clutch centering tools (the two wrenches), what else might i need?

No.  You can use any cylindrical object of the right diameter to fit the inside of the friction plate hub.  You can even eye-ball it using the pushrod hole as your target.  Then, when you mate the gearbox to the bell housing, the clutch will center.  For this to work successfully, leave the six screws holding the clutch basket loose enough for the friction disc to move but remain in position.  Insert and remove the transmission, and torque the screws.

[rbm]

Maybe someone can explain how worn clutch splines could make that particular noise? My understanding is that they either grind out and fail or they don't.

This is my guess.  The splines don't fail instantaneously.  There is a period of time while the splines are being worn away where there is more and more play.  As the splines wear, the play increases, slowly at first; more rapidly later as less material remains.  The noise is probably that play.

[F14CRAZY]

Well,

I've put around 2k miles on the bike since I bought it. I removed the trans and lubed the splines (trans/clutch splines and all other splines) with Honda Moly 60 before putting a plate on it. That clacking-type noise was present but went away with the clutch pulled. I was sorting out other things on the bike and didn't address it.

I pulled the trans again after I dunno, another thousand miles and re-arranged the clutch components to try to fix my vibration issue. Relubed the splines and reassembled. Clacking that goes away when the clutch is pulled still present.

Last weekend I pulled the trans again to replace the clutch disc as I noticed the condition of the clutch disc splines when I pulled it to sort out the vibration. New disc, lubed splines, reassembled, and now the noise is almost gone. I can post a new video tomorrow if you guys think it'll be of some use. Note: vibration still present even though I messed with the component arrangement again. I have a NEW clutch cover, NEW pressure plate, and a good, used clutch housing that just came though ebay that I will be installing this Sunday).

Note: in no way am I trying to argue or troll or anything, just report my findings on this clacking noise.

I can see how it can be the alternator "monkey nuts" but mine are new and I've removed and reinstalled the alternator at least 5 times since then with no change. Did not see damage to the "cup" of the alternator nor the drive "fins" so I feel that nuts are properly installed.

[Motorhobo]

now the noise is almost gone.

Well, Johnny would probably say almost gone is good enough to yeeeehah till it dies, but still I'd be curious to hear it now if you feel like posting another vid.

The list I provided earlier plus:
21211454417   Screw   (6)

Apparently these screws are one-use only and need to be replaced each time.     

Also recommended to replace the friction washers (2121 124 2377, 6x) under above mentioned screws at $0.53 apiece.

Re: clutch tool -- i bought the clutch centering tool from Ken Lively which is a direct reproduction of the BMW tool - basically a cylindrical object the right diameter with a beveled front edge and rod extrusion that allows you to use the pushrod bore as centering guide. I just torqued the clutch bolts using that -- I did NOT semi-torque then insert tranny, pull tranny and torque as rbm described below. I've never seen or heard of that two-wrench clutch tool contraption before this...to my knowledge using the official cylindrical tool you don't have to install the tranny twice...which makes it worth the 18 bucks 'cause it's a PITA and once per job is enough IMO.

[Elipten]

+1 on the clutch tool, worth every penny.  He also sells tools for valve adjustment.

[cmattina]

Okay good stuff everyone.

Motobins the only place to get this stuff?

can someone give me an opinion on this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-K75S-K75-S-K-75-88-K100-100-CLUTCH-PRESSURE-PLATE-DISC-NICE-SPLINES-SHAFT-/370951493981?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item565e6e995d&vxp=mtr

[rbm]

Maybe this as an alternative:

Parting out K75S

The guy's in the Barrie area.

[cmattina]

Maybe this as an alternative:

Parting out K75S

The guy's in the Barrie area.

Thanks, I emailed him. But really, the one on ebay has 40K miles and is already out so i doubt he can beat the price or guarantee a refund as the guy on ebay can. Thunder Bay and Barrie are very far from each other, Minneapolis is much closer (twice as close) so picking it up as a parts bike is tough.

I have that list you gave me in a shopping car from bmwparts.calomoto  seems to be good prices and is in NA.
I have:
Washer . A7,4 Stock Code: 21211242377
 
11211460696   COMPRESSION RING
 
11211460456   O-ring . 19X4
   
11117666186   Shaft seal . 50X80X10

21211454417   Screw

And now just a friction plate and i am okay? Is it worth spending $140 more on a new diaphragm spring and pressure plate? I assume it is unnecessary to replace the entire housing...