Milling the head: worth it?

[Kyle10]

'85 K100rt (2v), 50k miles

I have a client that is an engine remanufacturer. A class outfit and they know their onions (been in biz since 1975). Superb facilities: soda/bead/sand blasters, kilns, milling machines, etc. - everything. The pres is aces and a bike rider. I can get work done for a song, all I have to do is ship/or bring it to them.

So...I'm pondering the merits in taking in the head and getting it shaved.
Is it worth it in terms of effort/payoff? Would be as simple as a new gasket and a proper torque wrench?

If yes, then how much 'shaving'? 1mm?
What could one expect to gain in terms of hp/performance?

[johnny]

greetings kyle10...

I hear that some pirates have shaved a half a inch off their pirate glides and gained 20 donkey power...

j o

[Kyle10]

I just knew I'd get a straight answer outta you, Duck... 

[Grim]

I'd talk to your machine shop buddy and have him do the math. That motor is 10.2:1 compression. Much over 11:1 and your going to have to buy gas at the airport.
Bore x Stroke   67 x 70 mm he should be able to get a rough idea knowing that and the staring compression.
With it being over head cam milling the head is also going to retard some the cam timing and that might become a problem. Then you may also need to be concerned about valve to piston clearance.

[wmax351]

Milling the head a bit, and bigger intake valves can help. Not necessarily worth it. Issues of tuning too.

[Scott_]

Also brings into to question other accessories that connect to the head, timing chain slack, bolt length, all the cover alignments, throttle body connections, etc......

[billday]

I just knew I'd get a straight answer outta you, Duck... 

Johnny not Duck

[Kyle10]

Johnny not Duck
[/quote]

Yep. Sorry, Johnny. Saw that about an hour after I posted it.

So, I guess I asked a stoopid question anyway. You can't put a candle in a cowpie and call it a birthday cake. Just trying to get a bit more punch out of her.
Mulling over a 'ram air' mod to the airbox and lower fairing, along with an aftermarket can.

[K75RT Keith]

Could un bolt the 100 brick anchor and install an 1100 motor.  Or go whole hog and do the trans back for a parlever K100.   Or, Maybe NOS and a turbo or supercharger

[Grim]

Could un bolt the 100 brick anchor and install an 1100 motor.  Or go whole hog and do the trans back for a parlever K100.   Or, Maybe NOS and a turbo or supercharger

1200 will also bolt up. 130hp as I recall.

[wmax351]

Turbos go well on these engines. Mild cam, flow is limited by the valves.

[wmax351]

If someone does feel like really juicing up a brick, I'd be happy to help with megasquirt tuning. Though remember:

Speed costs: how fast do you want to spend?

[Kyle10]

If someone does feel like really juicing up a brick, I'd be happy to help with megasquirt tuning. Though remember:

Speed costs: how fast do you want to spend?

I went on the Megasquirt site, saw only the application for K75. How would I find out about my K100?

[Kyle10]

Could un bolt the 100 brick anchor and install an 1100 motor.  Or go whole hog and do the trans back for a parlever K100.   Or, Maybe NOS and a turbo or supercharger

1200 will also bolt up. 130hp as I recall.

What year(s)? What's involved?

Selling my existing engine would pare down the costs a bit (read: rationalization in progress)

[Scott_]

I would be wary of the earlier model mono-lever drive line handling the extra torque of a 1200 engine.

[Kyle10]

I would be wary of the earlier model mono-lever drive line handling the extra torque of a 1200 engine.

So either a 1200 engine/trans or an 1100 engine?

[Scott_]

I was thinking more of the drive shaft and final drive splines not being "hardened" enough for the extra power, like the newer models.

[Grim]

I would be wary of the earlier model mono-lever drive line handling the extra torque of a 1200 engine.

personally if I were swapping on a 1200 motor I'd also swap on the 6 speed.

K100 frame, k1200 engine and trans with k1100 motronic.
http://www.specialks.net/index.php?p=1_16_TBK12Special-The-Beast

[wmax351]

If someone does feel like really juicing up a brick, I'd be happy to help with megasquirt tuning. Though remember:

Speed costs: how fast do you want to spend?

I went on the Megasquirt site, saw only the application for K75. How would I find out about my K100?

You would have to diy. The K75 stuff there are all my posts. They are very close, though the k1004v and K1100 is easier, because the sensors are already inline for the megasquirt system (Proportional throttle position sensor, O2 sensor, etc).

[Freelancer]

personally if I were swapping in a 1200 motor I'd also swap on the 6 speed.

K100 frame, k1200 engine and trans with k1100 motronic.

Pretty sure that you can not use the 6-speed in the k100/k1100 frames. The 84-96 models used the engine & tranny as stressed members in the frame.
  The 1200's actually used a perimeter frame which ended up being part of the reason they weighed more (tele-lever system also contributed to the added fat).

Point I'm trying to get at is that while the 1200's retained the extra sturdy engine block of earlier models (thus able to be used as a stressed frame member), the 6-speed was designed with a much lighter case that does not have the strength to be used as a stressed frame member.

Also, the 6-spd's new case has no place for the rear swing-arm to attach .

I'm slowly gathering the materials for the 1200 motor in a 100 or 1100 frame and looked at the 6-spd., regretfully, the only economicaly feasible solution to a stiffer final gear is to swap a lower ratio gearset into your final drive. Think you can get down to a 2.52-ish to 1 final through use of a r1200 c ring gear.

Hope  this helps.

Later,
Freelancer

[Grim]

personally if I were swapping in a 1200 motor I'd also swap on the 6 speed.

K100 frame, k1200 engine and trans with k1100 motronic.

Pretty sure that you can not use the 6-speed in the k100/k1100 frames. The 84-96 models used the engine & tranny as stressed members in the frame.
  The 1200's actually used a perimeter frame which ended up being part of the reason they weighed more (tele-lever system also contributed to the added fat).

Point I'm trying to get at is that while the 1200's retained the extra sturdy engine block of earlier models (thus able to be used as a stressed frame member), the 6-speed was designed with a much lighter case that does not have the strength to be used as a stressed frame member.

Also, the 6-spd's new case has no place for the rear swing-arm to attach .

I'm slowly gathering the materials for the 1200 motor in a 100 or 1100 frame and looked at the 6-spd., regretfully, the only economicaly feasible solution to a stiffer final gear is to swap a lower ratio gearset into your final drive. Think you can get down to a 2.52-ish to 1 final through use of a r1200 c ring gear.

Hope  this helps.

Later,
Freelancer

I think it  can it be done that link is a picture of the bike with those parts. I quoted that link. I'm pretty sure it's 6pseed and I believe Taosbrick here has a 6 on his bike. 1200 bikes are still stressed. The "frame" was isolated from the engine to reduce vibration on the pilot.   

Edit: ok I see what your saying after finding some pictures of the transmission. I thought it was a matter of just isolators between the frame and engine assembly. I see now that the swing arm is also off the fame now.  I have no idea when I came up with the beast being 6 speed.womder if the guts could be swapped?