1995 K75 standard: Do I have a fluid bloc damper?

[hammick]

I've only had the bike for a few days and been up to 85mph and its rock solid.  I'm waiting on some parts to put it back to stock (naked).  It came with an R100rs fairing on it.

I'm curious to know if I have the fluid bloc damper and also don't want to damage it when I'm putting the naked brackets on the bike.  I have four holes in the front of the fork steering tube. These were used to mount the RS fairing.

Is there any way to tell if I have the fluid bloc without taking the forks off and removing the steering head bearings?  Pic of bike below.

Thanks.

[TimTyler]

If two of the four screws that go in the steering tube have pointed tips then you are supposed to have a FBD in there.

[mjydrafter]

You should be able to shine a flashlight into those holes and see "something" other than a shiny steering stem, I think mine was a light blue/grey color.  You may be able to see the holes the pointy screws make in the FB, that Tim referred to.

Mainly look for a difference between the upper and lower holes, and you may have to have the front end up, so you can turn the bars to help to "see".

I have a few thousand miles on my rig, without the FB.  I haven't died yet! :yes

[hammick]

Thanks guys.  It appears that I do have a fluid bloc.  Looking in the top two holes i see marred painted metal that is flush with the steering tube and turns with the bars.  Through the bottom two holes I an see the steering stem that is not flush with the steering tube.

My bike came with an R100rs fairing installed and the metal bracket used all four holes.  None of the screws I removed to remove the fairing were tapered like the top two screws should be.  The bottom screws were longer than the tops.  I am assuming the fluid bloc has been free floating since the RS fairing was installed.

I really don't want to remove my forks as the bike is rock solid at all speeds.  I will try to buy the tapered screws for the top holes and see if the fluid bloc is still in good shape.  I am assuming it doesn't matter if the bars are straight when the screws are tightened?  A good amount of the outside of the fluid block has been marred up by the non-tapered screws being used.  I will try to find a part of the fluid block that is relatively unmolested to get the best purchase from the tapered screws.

I am assuming the BMW parts fiche will take into account the thickness of the K75 standard headlight bracket when telling me what tapered screws to buy?

I hope putting my fluid bloc back into play doesn't introduce wobbles into the front end.

[TimTyler]

Sounds like a good plan.

I hope putting my fluid bloc back into play doesn't introduce wobbles into the front end.

I doubt it. You can always turn it OFF later if you don't like it.

[hammick]

Thanks for all the help.  I will put the fluid bloc into play and take it out if I don't like it.