Cold starting 94 k11

[k11pfc]

In our cold weather here my K11 stuggles to start, when it fires it runs beautifully, but when I first start from cold, I put a bit of choke on, hold a throttle open a bit then hit the button, it is though the kill switch is been hit, battery absolutely top notch, as I say when it does fire its fine, till the next day or it goes cold, what should I look for?

[argent brick]

I was having a similar problem with my cold blooded K75.  I would try starting just like you do. Then I stopped opening the throttle. I was reading somewhere that you should not open the throttle because the fuel injection will give the bike fuel so there is no need to open the throttle before you hit the start button.  It seems to start just a little better now.

[Inge K.]

When you use the choke lever, you open the throttle a tad.......nothing else.
And that is enough, more opening just makes the cold starting more difficult.
As Argent says the FI adjust the mix, related to the air temperature.

Inge K.

[Rick G]

Bosch recommend with any of their fuel injection systems that you don't touch the throttle and let the computer do what is best.
The K100 I sold a while ago would not start if the throttle was opened past where the choke opened it.  There was absolutely no go but if left alone it would fire on almost the first compression and idle sweetly with the usual cold rattle that many Ks have.

[wmax351]

Especially when cold, you shouldn't open the throttle much. The Bosch system injects a fixed amount of fuel for starting, based on temperature. It does not look at the throttle position or airflow. Once it hits 700 rpm, it considers the engine started, cuts the starter, and starts reading airflow based on the meter (K1002v, k75) or throttle position (K100 4v, k1100). Opening the throttle more than needed throws off the calculations.

You could try starting with the throttle essentially closed with the choke lever engaged, and once it catches, give it a bit of throttle.

[frankenduck]

My Ks seem to start easiest with no choke or throttle.  Then, once they catch, I use the "choke" to keep the RPMs up until the engine warms up enough.

(My bikes have Magnecor spark plug leads and NGK iridium plugs so that might make some difference.)

[argent brick]

My Ks seem to start easiest with no choke or throttle.  Then, once they catch, I use the "choke" to keep the RPMs up until the engine warms up enough.

(My bikes have Magnecor spark plug leads and NGK iridium plugs so that might make some difference.)

Do you like the Iridium plugs? I have been hearing about them for a while. A friend of mine had a Vette that he used the Iridium plugs in because it was the only way that he could get it to have a smooth idle. Loved the plugs, hated the price.

[pallum]

Mine has had trouble for the past two winters starting when below freezing. Checked valves (for the first time in 50k, heh) and they were all tighter than spec. Did the adjustment and now it starts up pretty nice on those cold mornings. Only took me about half an hour to do the clearance check (and another week's wait for new shims in the mail...) so it's not too bad.

[Snowy]

Normally my K11 will start perfectly well on "choke" when the lever is in its first position. When its really cold I have to use the "second stage" where you have to push and hold the lever further whilst starting the bike with the other hand. It always starts first time and as soon as the engine catches, I can release the choke against the spring action and leave it in the first position while I let the engine warm up for a about 20 seconds - then I can move off.

[frankenduck]

Do you like the Iridium plugs? I have been hearing about them for a while. A friend of mine had a Vette that he used the Iridium plugs in because it was the only way that he could get it to have a smooth idle. Loved the plugs, hated the price.

They seem to work fine.  They're only about $7-8 each at NAPA and supposedly last 40-50k.  Compare that to $2 plugs that last about 10k and it's a wash.