Miss/stumble in transition from idle - 93 K1100rs 80k miles

[lhead]

This just began two days ago. When increasing speed from throttle blades shut either pulling away from a light or during a corner transition, I'm getting a slight miss. It clears up as soon as it happens and otherwise the engine runs fine.

I'm thinking look at coil connections, plugs, plug wires heat sink compound behind the ignition amp. I don't believe it's airflow related because the idle is fine as is the engine performance in other speed ranges. Maybe TPS?

Does this engine have a MAF sensor or a MAP sensor?

Thanks for your help,

Charlie

[frankenduck]

Wouldn't hurt to change the fuel filter too if that hasn't been done in a while.

There's an air temp sensor in the top rear of the air box.

I'd guess refreshing the heat sink compound will cure your issue.  That usually starts causing issues right around 75-80k and I've never worked on a single one of those bikes (the ABS I 4V bikes are the only ones that have it) where anybody had done maintenance on that.  That's the first thing I'd do - and you want to do it as periodic maintenance anyhow.

[lhead]

Thanks Duck. I'm going to be replacing all the plugs with NKG D7EA's and at least two of the plug wires. The #1 and #2 plug wires are OEM and the #3 and #4 have obviously been replaced with NGK caps terminating. So I've got the front two plugs with the screw on caps and the back two bare. I'm going to make up a new set of wires so all plugs will be the same type. I'm discovering a lot about this bike and something about the mechanical abilities of the PO or lack thereof.

Is the fairing abs or glass? I ask beause there's a slight crack next to the right hand mirror and I'm going to have everything off for repainting over the winter and I'd like to know what I'm dealing with when repairing.

Thanks again,

Charlie

BTW - the exhaust mount hardware fit perfectly! Thanks for that too!

[frankenduck]

The main fairing body and tail cowl are some sort of fiberglass-ish stuff (I forget the name of it) that uses indivdual glass fibers and some sort of resin to hold them together.

The other body parts are ABS or similar plastic. (On K1100s.)

What I've had good luck with in the past is roughing up the inside of the area around a crack for better adhesion and then using a fiberglass repair kit.  I usually rough up the surface with a Dremel and then wipe it clean with rubbing alcohol before applying the fiberglass. I often use three layers of fiberglass which is probably overkill.

Since I'm not a bodywork guy I then let a painter fill and sand the crack on the outside before painting.

Here's an example of a K75 belly pan that I repaired.  Since I was having it covered in truck bed liner so it didn't' have to be perfect I did the exterior filling and sanding myself.

[lhead]

This bike came with a Kansas rebuilt salvage title because according to the PO, the fairing and plastic was damaged in a crash and needed to be replaced and the insurance company totalled it because the rep. parts cost exceed the value. It currently sports a cheesy purple respray that wasn't professionally applied at all. Also, licensing it in MO is proving to be something of a PITA - I had to get it inspected by the MO Highway Patrol for safety reasons because of the rebuilt salvage title and I have to take a personal day to drive to the state capitol to get the tag processing done if I don't want to wait 4-6 weeks. Going through my local DMV isn't an option.

I guess that's an even trade for having picked it up for $1700.

[wmax351]

K1100's have an Alpha N tuning system: Just tps and temperature. No map or maf.