You're, like many have before you, looking to delete your airbox.
Now therse a difference between Deleting the airbox and keeping the MAF sensor, which is the cheaper option and deleting the airbox, MAF sensor and the plenum chamber.
On beforehand i want to state I am not a mechanic, and there there might be.a design flaw that i have missed.
Also for this conversion I strongly recommend using a motogadget M-unit.
More warnings: this is quite a costly conversion, even when buying boneyard parts. Also your fuel consumption will increase. But hey, everything for the looks. BUT! Your bike will also have more "pzaz" when opening the throttle.
So all and all, its worth it.
Shopping list (mandatory)
°Motronic ECU v.2.1 or v2.2 and their corresponding wiring harnass.
Using the v2.1 requires you to also have an idle sensor and start module.
In CA(?) i believe also an output sensor for your exhaust [not sure]
°K1100 throttle body and Throttle position sensor.
For the podfilters you can use any kit on the market for the K1100 with 31mm filters
°4 valve k model ignition coils and sparkplug cables
You still need your 2valve sparkplugs but they most likely will need caps
°filter for the carter outlet
- important your bike will smell because of this. Usually the carter output gets led into the engine.
°4 valve k-bike airtemp sensor
This usually gets Installed by poking it into one of the pod filters or their installment tube.
°motogadget m-unit
- its not mandatory but it makes your life easier
° rubber vaccum seals that close of your throttle body +and install them on the k1100 throttle body gasoline inlet
° you will still need the k100 2 valve fuel pressure regulator (connected as on the k100) also known as the fuel pressure regulator.
° keep your throttle body engine mounting bodies.
° hall giver/sensor is the same on the k75, 100's and 1100.
[Recommended]
°4 valve coulant temp sensor
° longer throttle cable
° flathead allan key screw to replace the bolt under your throttle body lever
°you DO NOT have to replace your injectors if your current ones are working properly.
[Wiring the hardware]
Its straight forward, basically everything is plug and play as installed on your k100
Just pay attention to the afore mentioned fuel pressure regulator part information.
And here is the wiring diagram:
It also contains the parts needed.
Good luck converting and show your results underneath
And or do feel free to ask questions.