K1100LT 1994 purchase

[dmsantam]

Hello all, I've been here a while, but never posted. All the info i need is usually already here when i search for it. I have a K75S 1996 model, that is in immaculate condition with only 63,000km on the clock. Had it about 3 years and it's been an excellent bike. I am currently considering purchasing a 1994 K1100LT, which runs, but has been sitting for a couple of years. I would like some opinions on this bike, and perhaps some advice on what items should be addressed once I acquire the bike.The price is very attractive, so I am likely to purchase the bike if it runs as promised. It is being sold by a widow, through a local bike shop, as the original owner passed away. It has 173,000km on the clock, and a comprehensive service history.

The items I will do:
* engine oil and filter change
* gearbox oil
* final drive oil
* fork oil
* remove drive shaft and lube both ends with honda moly paste
* clutch spline lube
* change coolant

The bike will be used as an occasional rider, as I have several bikes. Any other advice will be appreciated. cheers

[beemuker]

I had one. I live in Florida, USA, and I found the ride too hot , even with a Johnny blanket. I am a traitor as I've got a R1100RT for my tourer. Not as smooth, but virtually no engine heat felt.

[Laitch]

I am a traitor . . ..

You aren't a traitor; you're a Brick rider, a Whale wrangler, and a Florida man—all awesome responsibilities. 

[Laitch]

The bike will be used as an occasional rider, as I have several bikes. Any other advice will be appreciated. cheers

Welcome to the site!

You seem to know you're way around the block from having so many motorcycles. Inspect the condition of the fuel tank interior, replace the fuel filter, and replace the fuel tank's internal fuel hoses with BMW NBR/NBR submersible fuel injection hose or J30R10-rated submersible fuel injection hoses, if you haven't done that already.

[Scott_]

As far as the drive shaft lube, the middle splines are the ones that really need the molly lube as they are the only ones that move with suspension flex.
You can clean and lube the ends if you would like to keep moisture out and prevent rust, but both ends are held fast by a circ-clip so they don't move on the splines without force.

If you are going to have the transmission off to lube the clutch input splines, you might just as well check/measure your friction disk of the clutch, and I would pull the clutch pack off and replace the clutch nut o-ring. It is very common and known to leak oil due to age related degeneration. (Unless the PO has already had it replaced, in the 'extensive' documentation you say it has.) Make sure to mark the parts of the clutch pack that are bolted together(for rotation balance when putting back together)

[frankenduck]

It should be done but do not worry about lubing the drive shaft splines.  A much more common failure point of 4V drive shafts is the front or rear U-joint splodin'.

Do some Googling on K11 drive shaft failures and what you will find is that it's the U-joints that fail, not the splines. It's not a K75/K100. If anyone can find one instance that a 4V drive shaft failing due to spline failure then post it up here to prove me wrong.

How to help keep the U-joints from failing:
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/dsphase/dsphase.htm

[dmsantam]

I had one. I live in Florida, USA, and I found the ride too hot , even with a Johnny blanket. I am a traitor as I've got a R1100RT for my tourer. Not as smooth, but virtually no engine heat felt.

i've read plenty of people complaining about the engine heat. The good news is that I can just use the bike in the cooler months as I have other bikes that are good in hot weather.

[dmsantam]

Inspect the condition of the fuel tank interior, replace the fuel filter, and replace the fuel tank's internal fuel hoses with BMW NBR/NBR submersible fuel injection hose or J30R10-rated submersible fuel injection hoses, if you haven't done that already.

Good idea. I shall do just that, cheers

[dmsantam]

It should be done but do not worry about lubing the drive shaft splines.  A much more common failure point of 4V drive shafts is the front or rear U-joint splodin'.

Do some Googling on K11 drive shaft failures and what you will find is that it's the U-joints that fail, not the splines. It's not a K75/K100. If anyone can find one instance that a 4V drive shaft failing due to spline failure then post it up here to prove me wrong.

How to help keep the U-joints from failing:
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/dsphase/dsphase.htm

Interesting, did they harden the material on these models? What about the clutch and transmission input splines?

[frankenduck]

Interesting, did they harden the material on these models? What about the clutch and transmission input splines?

The shaft splines are longer splines with a larger contact area.

Clutch: Per the BMW maintenance specs, K bikes built prior to 1990 require annual lubing and those built 1990-on require lubing every 40K miles so a reasonable assumption from that it that the trans input splines were hardened. So on a K1100 a 40K mile service interval should suffice.

I've purchased dozens of Ks and always do a clutch spline lube just to be on the safe side.

If a K has "false neutrals" when downshifting then that is a typical symptom of dry splines that should be addressed as soon as is convenient. This is hard to recognize for new K owners but since you've owned a K75 it should be easier for you to recognize.

[dmsantam]

ok, thanks. much appreciated. cheers