K1100RS bar end queation

[DanPete]

My 93 parts bike has low miles, but was stored rather badly. These are the bar ends... they did NOT come off very friendly:

K1100RS bar ends.JPG (34.47 kB . 768x405 - viewed 356 times)
I assume the one on the left was originally shiny, or maybe painted? Is dark brown rust now
The one on the right is my main question. It looks to be three pieces, but they are frozen solid... so far! I will get more aggressive when I know more about them. Are the three pieces a throttle lock of some sort? Maybe the infamous throttlemister? (I've never actually seen one) 

[frankenduck]

Not a ThrottleMeister.  "Bob's Wrist Rest" throttle lock from Bob's BMW.  The textured part in the middle should turn to push the inner black part into the end of the throttle tube. Soak it with penetrating oil to see if you can free it up.

[DanPete]

Good to put a name to it. Thanks. I kinda had assumed that was the feature - just didn't want to force something into moving that wasn't supposed to , when I knew I could get a good answer from here.
I remember the throttlemister being right expensive; was the design about the same?

[frankenduck]

was the design about the same?

The TMs were about $150/pair. The Wrist Rest cost about $80 I think.

Functionally similar but with the TM you turn the whole body of the bar end.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I have the wrist rest on both of my RS's.  There are three main parts to it.  The outer weighted part, the knurled ring, and the inboard ring.

The knurled ring is threaded onto the outer weighted part.  When you turn it, it pushed the inboard ring up against the end of the throttle grip preventing the throttle return spring from turning the grip to close the throttle. 

The inboard ring floats on the outer weighted part.  A roll pin keeps it from coming off.  Since the weighted part is steel and the knurled ring is aluminum, there is the possibility of corrosion seizing the two parts together.  A couple shots of penetrating oil should break them loose.  The inboard rings on mine are composite and shouldn't have any corrosion issues once the knurled ring is freed up.

They are good for holding the throttle to give your hand a break.  The only issue is that the knurled ring has a tendency to back off because of the vibrations in the handlebars requiring frequent adjsustment.  For this reason, I would suggest cleaning the assembly well with brake cleaner once you get the knurled ring loosened up, and to avoid the use of any lubricant on the knurled ring. 

[frankenduck]

I know it's nit-picking but I think the purpose of the roll pin is to keep the inner ring from turning when you turn the middle ring.




When you have it off-bike it's a good idea to run a zip-tie through it so you don't lose the inner ring since it comes right off if not mounted on a handlebar.

[DanPete]

I like picking at nits, myself, being a total info. junkie :laughing4-giggles
I saw the anti-roll pin in there (I made a funny!)
Does the composite ring have anything holding it on? Or just slides off (friction from corrosion on the inner steel piece)
Just a bench discussion for now... I’ll put hands back on it this weekend.
Thanks to all

[frankenduck]

There's nothing holding the inner ring on. (Aside from corrosion in your case.) It should slip right off as in the picture above. I think trying to slide that off first would be your best bet. Then you'll have better access for getting penetrating oil into the middle ring's threads.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Duck, you're right.  It's been a couple years since I've had mine apart, and my memory isn't what it used to be.  The roll pin just keeps the inner ring from turning.

[frankenduck]

Duck, you're right.  It's been a couple years since I've had mine apart, and my memory isn't what it used to be.  The roll pin just keeps the inner ring from turning.

Meh. I only knew that because I have a spare one lying around to play with. It's not like I remembered the details of how it works from ten years ago or anything like that. I'm no Inge.