Unidentified Clutch Hand Lever Part

[WallaBeest]

This tenuous wire I have been watching with dread finally lopped off my left switch as I attached my new Garmin. Perusing online digital manuals, I have not found any reference to what the heck this is (seems it would be obvious, but no). I hope and pray that it is just a now-vestigial heated hand grip connector (bought it used 4 years ago and I killed off the previous owner). I've ridden around for an afternoon or two and nothing dreadful has happened. Maybe my Corbin® ejector seat is now disconnected?
Can I get a 'yes, that a standard wire connection for a k75 heated hand grip'?
Thank you in advance.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I could be wrong, but that might be the clutch switch that allows starting when the transmission isn't in neutral and the clutch is pulled in.  It looks like the wires were cut off.

What happens when you pull the clutch in with the transmission in gear and try to start the engine?

[WallaBeest]

Hey, thanks!! The clutch pops into neutral and starts up just fine. 'N' light on. Since this wire is right there next to the clutch lever, I was also suspicious it was related to the clutch. Kickstand up, yes,... Everything seems to go through the paces without my missing anything. My ABS is completely out, so I've run w/o that the whole time. High beam, fine, low beam. Horn. Yes! (The previous owner put a car horn in, so the blast is memorable.) I have to assume I am riding safe w/o this doohickey nub connected. But of course hope the motobrick community could warn me off of any naiveté. (whew, thank you, spellcheck, on that last word)

[The Mighty Gryphon]

"The clutch pops into neutral and starts up just fine. 'N' light on" 

????

Can you start the engine with the transmission in gear(not Neutral) if the clutch lever is pulled in? 

[frankenduck]

It's what left of a clutch switch.

If'n your transmission switch fails too then you'll have to push start the bike.

[Laitch]

The clutch pops into neutral and starts up just fine. 'N' light on. Since this wire is right there next to the clutch lever, I was also suspicious it was related to the clutch.

It's what left of a clutch switch.

From Max BMW's parts fiche—Steering section.

[WallaBeest]

It's what left of a clutch switch.

If'n your transmission switch fails too then you'll have to push start the bike.

This connector wasn't cut off, per se. It looked vulnerable and tenuous for a time, and finally 'broke off'. It looks like a re-solder to put it right. Since the electrics seemed to work ("N' lighting up and off on my cluster at the appropriate times), I don't remember checking if I could start in MORE gears, like first.
Thank you, Laitch, frankenduck, mighty gryphon!

[frankenduck]

FYI: There are two ways to get power to the start button of the right combo switch:

1) When then bike is in neutral as indicated by the LCD reading "0"and green N indicator lamp in the cluster.

2) When the clutch switch is activated by pulling in the clutch lever.


At a minimum I would find the wires for the switch that broke off and insulate them. The green/black wire is powered by the #1 Fuse and if it shorts and blows that fuse it will kill stuff like the instrument cluster, brake lights and heated grips.

Or just disconnect it under the left side of the tank. The connector for it has two wires:
Green/black - power in from #1 Fuse
Black/green - power out to the start button

[WallaBeest]

Thank you, Laitch, for the diagram and link to Max's. I ordered a new cable to replace this one, all insulated and professional-like. No need to solder. Yes! Thanks, all, for the advice and direction!