Clutch Cable Fix?

[stokester]

I've had two clutch cables snap on me during a ride over the last 40K miles and at least the last one was properly cleaned and lubed at the lever.

After comparing my low-mileage '94K75 clutch engagement action it was apparent that my clutch lever was sloppy at the pivot.  I removed it today and replaced the nylon bushing which, compared to the replacement, was quite worn and wallowed out.

So, along with the cleaning and lubing of the cable barrel, check the movement of your lever for a worn bushing.

[RobP]

Were they OEM BMW cables or aftermarket ones?   I used an aftermarket cable when I first had to replace one.  It lasted about 9k miles.   I installed a BMW cable the next time around and dutifully lubed the lever end.  Hoping I get a better lifespan out of this'un.   I now carry an emergency cable and cable ends in the tool kit.

[stokester]

Were they OEM BMW cables or aftermarket ones?   I used an aftermarket cable when I first had to replace one.  It lasted about 9k miles.   I installed a BMW cable the next time around and dutifully lubed the lever end.  Hoping I get a better lifespan out of this'un.   I now carry an emergency cable and cable ends in the tool kit.

I always carry a spare cable.

The first was an OEM and the last ones were Venhill from Beemerboneyard.

Venhill cables seem to have a bit larger sheath but fit fine and BB includes the barrel and felt.

[Chaos]

I always carry a spare cable.

ditto, one of the few things I carry that I actually need sometimes

[Motorhobo]

Last time I bought an OEM cable it was apparent that the quality was miles above the aftermarket ones. Part 32 73 2324955 --  $54.99.  But it's worth it if it draws through the sheathing easier and lasts twice as long. The lever on one of my bikes is much harder to pull than the other one, not comfortable at all.

BTW both EME and Tills.de have the felt grommet for the lever end, but Tills.de has it at about half the price. The clutch bolt and washer set is also much cheaper there. I'm not at all affiliated with Tills.de but it's worth checking out.

[Martin]

I carry a spare but I'm still on my original 170,000 K 1992 cable. I have fitted a grease nipple to the clutch arm regularly lube the nipples and lever pivot points, and use a PTFE lubricant on the cable inner. While I am still on the original cable I have replaced levers that have worn and can cause fretting of the cable. I try to avoid using the auto retraction device which can put strain on the cable especially if the stand is down. I was also told to stick to the OEM cable as the Venhill are more prone to the nipples pulling off and breakage.

Regards Martin.

[natalena]

  I removed it today and replaced the nylon bushing

The lever is fine on mine for now, but where did you get the bushing, or did you fab it up from a drawer piece from Ace/HD/Lowes?
I don't lube the internal sleeve; however, use a MoS2/PTFE grease I make to smear the ends to reduce shear friction.
Cheers

[stokester]

The lever is fine on mine for now, but where did you get the bushing, or did you fab it up from a drawer piece from Ace/HD/Lowes?
I don't lube the internal sleeve; however, use a MoS2/PTFE grease I make to smear the ends to reduce shear friction.
Cheers

Both of the cables that broke on me were OEM and after the first break I made it a point to keep the barrel end clean and lubed.  After the second one broke I noticed the barrel would move up and down because of the slop in the bushing.  After removing the old bushing I could see the wear allowing movement on the pivot bolt.

OEM has them for under $3 - #13
32721451796 Bush - Price:$2.96

[natalena]

Thanks, next time I'm at Morton's or Bob's, it'll be purchased as a "it's gonna happen" piece.

[koapono]

Greetings all, I am certainly not taking credit for the idea it's been posted time and again.
If you have the cash to buy duplicates of each cable (throttle and clutch) by all means run a spare cable parallel to functional cable.
Secure it with zip-ties and seal the ends to protect from weather, grit and grime.
I did this on both bikes several years ago and haven't had a cable failure since!
If I do it's a simple fix, just connect the ends of pre-installed cables.
Of course this doesn't account for excess wear and failure of other components but it's good insurance for cable problems.

[KIWIDON]

Totally agree, been down this road. Replaced OEM cable after zillion miles when it broke at lever with repeat failure of OEM cable in less than two years. Pivots were regularly lubed but noted ferrule not sitting evenly in lever pivots thus flexing cable slightly when operated. New bushing, no lever play and nil further cable issues since on a daily commute bike.